Acta Oceanologica Sinica

, Volume 36, Issue 5, pp 31–43 | Cite as

Experimental analysis of infragravity waves in two eroded microtidal beaches

  • Conde-Frias Mario
  • Otero Luis
  • Camilo Restrepo Juan
  • Carlos Ortíz Juan
Article

Abstract

This work aims to contribute to the characterization and understanding of infragravity waves on two beaches with erosion problems. For this reason, we have used an array of ADCP and a pressure sensor to measure wave parameters and pressure inside and outside of the surf zone during the dry and rainy period in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar (both dissipative and eroded beaches) located in the Colombian Caribbean coast. Based on these measurements, we have carried out a spectral analysis in order to identify the frequency components that characterize the wave and its energy; thus, we identified the characteristic frequencies of infragravity waves to finally filter the infragravity signal on each beach in different seasonal periods. Among the results of the Welch spectrum applied to surface elevation time series, we found that, the frequencies’ energy of the sea-swell band decreases due to bottom friction and wave breaking as the wave approaches the shore, while the frequencies’ energy of the infragravity band increases significantly. In addition, for the wavelet analysis, we could observe how the energy of the infragravity band, especially the lowest frequencies gain energy as the waves approaches the coast. Furthermore, based on the infragravity wave obtained from the extreme wave event registered during the field campaign we can conclude that the contribution of this signal is important in the erosion problems presented in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar. Finally, these results show the need to realize other studies that allow us to understand deeply, the role of infragravity waves on the morphological changes that occurs in these beaches.

Key words

infragravity waves long waves experimental analysis fourier analysis wavelet transform 

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Notes

Acknowledgements

The authors thank to the I+D+I Department of the Universidad del Norte, and the reviewers for the suggestions and constructive comments on an earlier draft of this manuscript.

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Copyright information

© The Chinese Society of Oceanography and Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 2017

Authors and Affiliations

  • Conde-Frias Mario
    • 1
  • Otero Luis
    • 1
  • Camilo Restrepo Juan
    • 1
  • Carlos Ortíz Juan
    • 1
  1. 1.Geosciences Research Group GEO4, Department of PhysicsUniversidad del NorteBarranquillaColombia

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