Skip to main content
Log in

Antifaltencremes

Was hilft wirklich?

Anti-aging creams

What really helps?

  • Übersichten
  • Published:
Journal für Ästhetische Chirurgie Aims and scope

Zusammenfassung

Da Jugendlichkeit und Schönheit, die heutzutage als gesellschaftliche Ideale gelten, nicht ewig währen, wurde in den letzten Jahren eine große Zahl neuer Dermatokosmetika entwickelt. Dieser Beitrag will neuere und in wissenschaftlichen Studien belegte dermatokosmetische Wirkstoffe gegen Hautalterung vorstellen; insbesondere Antioxidanzien (z. B. Vitamin C, Niacinamid, Polyphenole und andere Flavonoide) und Zellregulatoren (z. B. Retinol, verschiedene Peptide und Wachstumsfaktoren). Dermatokosmetika, deren Qualität gesichert ist, sollten über wissenschaftlich hinreichend dokumentierte In-vivo- und In-vitro-Wirksamkeitsnachweise und über in Studien belegte Wirkungen verfügen.

Abstract

As youth and perception of beauty are considered to be of great importance, an increasing number of new cosmeceuticals have been developed in recent years. This article will describe new, evidence-based ingredients against skin-aging; in particular antioxidants (e.g. vitamin C, niacinamide, different polyphenols and flavonoids) and cell regulators (e.g. retinol, different peptides and growth factors. Important parameters for the quality of cosmetics and cosmeceuticals are evidence-based in-vivo and in-vitro efficacy as well as scientifically approved wanted and unwanted effects.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Institutional subscriptions

Abb. 1
Abb. 2
Abb. 3
Abb. 4

Literatur

  1. Beitner H (2003) Randomized, placebo-controlled, double blind study on the clinical efficacy of a cream containing 5% alpha-lipoic acid related to photoageing of facial skin. Br J Dermatol 149:841–849

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  2. Bahwan J (1998) Short- and long-term histologic effects of topical tretinoin on photodamaged skin. Int J Dermatol 37:286–292

    Article  Google Scholar 

  3. Bissett DL, Miyamoto K, Sun P et al (2004) Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci 26:231–238

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  4. Blanes-Mira C, Clemente J, Jodas G et al (2002) A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. Int J Cosmet Sci 24:303–310

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  5. Chaudhuri RK (2002) Emblica cascading antioxidant: a novel natural skin care ingredient. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol 15:374–380

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  6. Creidi P, Humbert P (1999) Clinical use of topical retinaldehyde on photoaged skin. Dermatology 1:49–52

    Article  Google Scholar 

  7. Draelos ZD (2007) The latest cosmeceutical approaches for anti-aging. J Cosmet Dermatol 6:2–6

    Article  Google Scholar 

  8. Elmets CA, Singh D, Tubesing K et al (2001) Cutaneous photoprotection from ultraviolet injury by green tea phenols. J Am Acad Dermatol 44:425–432

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  9. Farwick M, Watson RE, Rawlings AV et al (2007) Salicyloyl-phytosphingosine: a novel agent for the repair of photoaged skin. Int J Cosmet Sci 29:319–329

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  10. Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF (2002) Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatol Surg 28:231–236

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  11. Goldfarb MT, Ellis CN, Weis JS, Voorhees JJ (1989) Topical tretinoin therapy: its use in photoaged skin. J Am Acad Dermatol 21:645–650

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  12. Haftek M, Mac-Mary S, Bitoux MA et al (2008) Clinical, biometric and structural evaluation of the long-term effects of a topical treatment with ascorbic acid and madecassoside in photoaged human skin. Exp Dermatol 17:946–952

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  13. Humbert PG, Haftek M, Creidi P et al (2003) Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo. Exp Dermatol 12:237–244

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  14. Kafi R, Kwak HS, Schumacher WE et al (2007) Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol 143:606–612

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  15. Kerscher M (2009) Dermatokosmetik, 2. Aufl. Steinkopff, Darmstadt

  16. Kerscher M, Buntrock H (2011) Update on cosmeceuticals. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges 9:314–326

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  17. Krüger N, Fiegert L, Becker D et al (2003) Zur Behandlung der Hautalterung: Spurenelemente in Form eines Kupfertripeptidkomplexes. Kos Med 24:31–33

    Google Scholar 

  18. Krutmann J. Actives (2009) Zentraler Bestandteil des modernen Lichtschutzes. Hautarzt 60:294–300

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  19. Lintner K (2002) Promoting production in the extracellular matrix without compromising barrier. Cutis 70:13–16

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  20. Lupo MP, Cole AL (2007) Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Ther 20:343–349

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  21. Murray JC, Burch JA, Streilein RD et al (2008) A topical antioxidant solution containing vitamins C and E stabilized by ferulic acid provides protection for human skin against damage caused by ultraviolet irradiation. J Am Acad Dermatol 59:418–425

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  22. Nagai K, Suda T, Kawasaki K, Mathuura S (1986) Action of carnosine and beta-alanine on wound healing. Surgery 100:815–821

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  23. Nichols JA, Katiyar SK (2010) Skin photoprotection by natural polyphenols: anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and DNA repair mechanisms. Arch Dermatol Res 302:71–83

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  24. Nusgens BV, Humbert P, Rougier A et al (2001) Topically applied vitamin C enhances the mRNA level of collagen I and III, their processing enzymes and tissue inhibitors of matrix metalloproteinase 1 in the human dermis. J Invest Dermatol 116:853–859

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  25. Ponec M, Weerheim A, Kempenaar J et al (1997) The formation of competent barrier lipids in reconstructed human epidermis requires the presence of vitamine C. J Invest Dermatol 109:348–355

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  26. Scharffetter-Kochanek K, Wlaschek M, Brenneisen P et al (1997) UV-induced reactive oxygen species in photocarcinogenesis and photoaging. Bioorg Chem 378:1247–1257

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  27. Traikovich SS (1999) Use of topical ascorbic acid and its effects on photodamaged skin topography. Arch Otolaryngol Head Neck Surg 125:1091–1098

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  28. Varani J, Warner RL, Gharaee-Kermani M et al (2000) Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin. J Invest Dermatol 114:480–486

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  29. Wlaschek M, Tantcheva-Poor I, Naderi L et al (2001) Solar UV irradiation and dermal photoaging. J Photochem Photobiol B 63:41–51

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  30. Zhai H, Behnam S, Villarama CD et al (2005) Evaluation of the antioxidant capacity and preventive effects of a topical emulsion and its vehicle control on the skin response to UV exposure. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 18:288–293

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

Download references

Interessenkonflikt

Der korrespondierende Autor gibt an, dass kein Interessenkonflikt besteht.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to M. Kerscher.

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Cite this article

Kerscher, M. Antifaltencremes. J. f. Ästhet. Chirurgie 5, 74–82 (2012). https://doi.org/10.1007/s12631-011-0144-1

Download citation

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s12631-011-0144-1

Schlüsselwörter

Keywords

Navigation