Abstract
The appearance and hand of end-use fabrics has become more and more important when purchasing textile fabrics. The finishing parameters have complex influences on the large number of changes that occur in fabric properties during finishing processes. This study focused on the influences of different finishing parameters on mechanical and surface properties in order to discover the most appropriate finishing process according to the requirements of fabric handle and appearance. The KES-F system was used to evaluate fabric hand objectively, as well as the mechanical and surface properties of a woven wool fabric. Four finishing processes were selected, which differed in relation to the temperature when drying (T1=160 °C, T2=180 °C) and processing conditions during autoclave decatizing (T1=95 °C, p1=0.4 bar, T2=110 °C, p2=1 bar). The effect of the influential parameters inside four different finishing processes on the mechanical properties and hand of a selected woven fabric was evaluated using the analysis of variance. The results show that tensile properties are much more influenced by the belt pressing process while bending and shear properties are influenced by continuous decatizing process, which is the process that mostly improves fabric stability at the beginning of the dry finishing cycle. When the primary and total hand values were observed, it could be seen that applying chemicals during belt pressing had some consequences, the impacts of which could be observed directly in the resulting hand values.
Similar content being viewed by others
References
P. Prasad and I. Porat, Int. J. Cloth. Sci. Technol., 2/3, 7 (1995).
H. E. Needles, “Textile Fibers, Dyes, Finishes, and Processes”, Noyes Publications, New Jersey, 1986.
C. V. Le, D. H. Tester, N. G. Ly, and S. D. Jong, Text. Res. J., 64, 61 (1994).
F. Kalaoğlu, S. Jevšnik, S. Kreševič Vraz Silva, H. S. Eryürük, and S. Kursun, “Proc. of 9th AUTEX Conference 2013”, pp.1234–1240, Izmir, 2013.
E. Finnimore, “Proc. of 7th International Wool Textile Research Conference”, Tokyo, 1985.
A. G. De Boos and A. M. Wemyss, J. Text. Inst., 84, 506 (1993).
S. H. Eryuruk, F. Kalaoglu, S. K. Bahadir, and S. Jevšnik, Fibres Text. Eastern Eur., 22, 105 (2014).
R. C. Dhingra, D. Liu, and R. Postle, Text. Res. J., 59, 357 (1989).
H. N. Behery, “Effect of Mechanical and Physical Properties on Fabric Hand”, Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, 2005.
D. Sun and G. K. Stylios, Fiber. Polym., 13, 1050 (2012).
L. Naujokaityte and E. Strazdiene, Mater. Sci. (Medžiagotyra), 13, 249 (2007).
D. Sun and G. K. Stylios, Text. Res. J., 74, 751 (2006).
S. H. Eryuruk, S. Jevsnik, S. Kursun Bahadir, C. Saricam, and F. Kalaoglu, “Proc. of 7th AUTEX Conference 2011”, pp.938–942, France, 2011.
H. Hasani, Ind. J. Fibre Text. Res., 35, 139 (2010).
F. Kalaoglu, C. Saricam, S. Kursun, S. H. Eryuruk, and S. Jevsnik, “International Conference of Applied Research in Textile”, pp.184–187, 2010.
K. R. Millington, Text. Res. J., 82, 1414 (2012).
S. Jevšnik, A. Rudolf, S. Kreševič Vraz, Z. Stjepanović, C. Saricam, and F. Kalaoğlu, “Proc. of 2th International Development Trends and Innovative Approach in Textile Industry”, Beograd, pp.76–80, 2010.
S. Kawabata, “The Standardization and Analysis of Hand Evaluation”, Textile Machinery Society of Japan, 2nd ed., Osaka, 1980.
W. S. Simpson and G. H. Crawshaw, “Wool: Science and Technology”, Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, 2002.
P. R. Brady, “Finishing and Wool Properties”, CSIRO Wool Technology, Belmont, 1997.
H. K. Rouette, “Encyclopedia of Textile Finishing”, Springer, Aachen, 2000.
SIST EN ISO 5084, Textiles — Determination of Thickness of Textiles and Textile Products, 1996.
T. H. Wonnacott and J. R. Wonnacott, “Introductory Statistics”, University of Western Ontario, Western Ontario, 1990.
J. J. Long, C. L. Cui, L. Wang, H. M. Xu, Z. J. Yu, and X. P. Bi, J. Cleaner Production, 43, 52 (2013).
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Rights and permissions
About this article
Cite this article
Jevšnik, S., Kalaoğlu, F., Saricam, C. et al. Fabric hand of a dry finished wool fabric. Fibers Polym 15, 2671–2678 (2014). https://doi.org/10.1007/s12221-014-2671-9
Received:
Revised:
Accepted:
Published:
Issue Date:
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s12221-014-2671-9