Abstract
The Karnataka coast is subjected to high wave activity during the southwest monsoon when most of the sandy beaches undergo erosion. Based on the littoral cell concept, the Karnataka coast is broadly divided into 14 major littoral cells and 26 stations are selected in the present study. WaveWatch III global wave model data at 0.5° interval were used to derive the nearshore wave characteristics from XBeach numerical model. The model results were validated with the measured wave rider buoy data of the Indian National Centre for Ocean Information Services. The beach orientation, nearshore slope, median sediment size, significant wave height, mean wave direction, and the peak wave period were used in the estimation of longshore sediment transport rate. The mean significant wave height along the Karnataka coast was about 0.86 m, wave direction was about 210° and peak wave period was about 13 sec. The wave height during southwest monsoon (June–September) was higher, post-monsoon (October–December) was moderate and pre-monsoon (January–May) was the calmest period. Direction of longshore sediment transport was southwards during pre- and post-monsoons when waves were from the south–southwest. Whereas, northwards during monsoon when the wave approach from west–southwest to west. The annual net longshore sediment transport rate estimated was about 0.65×106 m3 towards the south and the sediment budget investigation depicts the loss of 0.067×106 m3 during the study period.
Highlights
-
WaveWatch III global wave model data at 0.5° interval were used as input to derive the nearshore wave characteristics from XBeach numerical model.
-
The wave height during southwest monsoon (June to September) was higher, post-monsoon (October to December) was moderate and pre-monsoon (January to May) was the calmest period.
-
Direction of longshore sediment transport was southwards during pre- and post-monsoons when waves were from the south-southwest. Whereas, northwards during monsoon when the wave approach from west-southwest to west.
-
The annual net longshore sediment transport rate estimated was about 0.65×106 m3 towards the south, and the sediment budget investigation depicts the loss of 0.067×106 m3 during the study period.
Similar content being viewed by others
References
Ari Guner H A, Yuksel Y and Cevik E O 2013 Longshore sediment transport – field data and estimations using neural networks, numerical model, and empirical models; J. Coast. Res. 29(2) 311–324, https://doi.org/10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-11-00074.1.
Ashley G M, Halsey S D and Buteux C B 1986 New Jersey’s longshore current pattern; J. Coast. Res. 2(4) 453–463.
Baldock T E, Holmes P, Bunker S and Van Weert P 1998 Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surfzone; Coast. Eng. 34(3–4) 173–196, https://doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(98)00017-9.
Bayram A, Larson M and Hanson H 2007 A new formula for the total longshore sediment transport rate; Coast. Eng. 54(9) 700–710, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.04.001.
Bayram A, Larson M, Miller H C and Kraus N C 2001 Cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport: Comparison between predictive formulas and field measurements; Coast. Eng. 44(2) 79–99, https://doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(01)00023-0.
Bodge K R 1993 Gross transport effects at inlets; Proc. of 6th Ann. Nat. Conf. on Beach Preservation Tech., Tallahassee, FL, Florida Shore and Beach Preservation Association, pp. 112–127.
CERC 1984 Shore Protection Manual; US Army Corps of Engineers – Washington, DC. U.S. Government Printing Office, Vicksburg, https://doi.org/10.5962/bhl.title.47829.
Chandramohan P and Nayak B U 1992 Longshore sediment transport model for the Indian west coast; J. Coast. Res. 8(4) 775–787, http://www.jstor.org/stable/4298035.
Chowdhury P and Behera M R 2017 Effect of long-term wave climate variability on longshore sediment transport along regional coastlines; Prog. Oceanogr. 156 145–153, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.pocean.2017.06.001.
Deepika B and Jayappa K S 2017 Seasonal beach morphological changes along the coast of Udupi district, west coast of India; J. Coast. Conserv. 21(4) 545–559, https://doi.org/10.1007/s11852-017-0529-1.
Duc D M, Tung T T, McLaren P, Anh T N and Quynh D T 2019 Sediment transport trends and cross-sectional stability of a lagoonal tidal inlet on the central coast of Vietnam; Int. J. Sed. Res. 34(4) 322–334, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijsrc.2019.01.001.
Esteves L S, Williams J J and Lisniowski M A 2009 Measuring and modelling longshore sediment transport; Estuar. Coast. Shelf Sci. 83(1) 47–59, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecss.2009.03.020.
Folk R L and Ward W C 1957 Brazos river bar [Texas]: A study in the significance of grain size parameters; J. Sedim. Res. 27(1) 3–26, https://doi.org/10.1306/74d70646-2b21-11d7-8648000102c1865d.
Guner H A Ari, Yuksel Y and Cevik E O 2013 Longshore sediment transport-field data and estimations using neural networks, numerical model, and empirical models; J. Coast. Res. 29(2) 311–324, https://doi.org/10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-11-00074.1.
Hume T M, Bell R G, Black K P, Healy T R and Nichol S L 1999 Sand movement and storage and nearshore sand extraction in the Mangawhai–Pakiri Embayment; NIWA Client Report ARC60201/10.
Jayappa K S 1996 Longshore sediment transport along the Mangalore Coast, west coast of India; Indian J. Mar. Sci. 25(2) 157–159.
Jayappa K S, Vijaya Kumar G T and Subrahmanya K R 2003 Influence of coastal structures on beach morphology and shoreline in southern Karnataka, India; J. Coast. Res. 19(2) 389–408, https://www.jstor.org/stable/4299180.
Kamphuis J W 1991 Alongshore sediment transport rate; J. Waterw. Port. Coast. Ocean Eng. ASCE 117(6) 624–641.
Komar P D 1998 Beach processes and sedimentation; Prentice Hall Inc, New Jersey, pp. 544–545.
Kumar V S and Anand N M 2004 Variations in wave direction estimated using first and second order Fourier coefficients; Ocean Eng. 31(17–18) 2105–2119, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2004.06.003.
Kumar V S, Anand N M, Chandramohan P and Naik G N 2003 Longshore sediment transport rate-measurement and estimation, central west coast of India; Coast. Eng. 48(2) 95–109, https://doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00172-2.
Kumar V S, Pathak K C, Pednekar P, Raju N S N and Gowthaman R 2006 Coastal processes along the Indian coastline; Curr. Sci. 91(4) 530–536.
Kurian N P, Rajith K, Sheela Nair L, Shahul Hameed T S, Ramana Murty M V, Arjun S and Shamji V R 2009 Wind waves and sediment transport regime off the south-central Kerala coast, India; Nat. Hazards 49 325–345, https://doi.org/10.1007/s11069-008-9318-3.
Mafi S, Yeganeh-Bakhtiary A and Kazeminezhad M H 2013 Prediction formula for longshore sediment transport rate with M5 algorithm; In: Proc. of 12th Int. Coast. Symp., Plymouth, England, J. Coast. Res. 65 2149–2154, https://doi.org/10.2112/SI65-363.1.
Mil-Homens J, Ranasinghe R, Van Thiel de Vries J S M and Stive M J F 2013 Re-evaluation and improvement of three commonly used bulk longshore sediment transport formulas; Coast. Eng. 75 29–39, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2013.01.004.
Mil-Homens J, Ranasinghe R, Van Thiel de Vries J S M and Stive M J F 2012 Re-assessment and update of bulk longshore sediment transport formulas; ICCE 2012: Proc. of the 33rd Int. Conf. on Coast. Eng., Santander, Spain, 1–6 July.
NHO 2004 Bathymetric chart no. 216 from Belekeri to Kundapura, India; National Hydrographic Office of India, Superintendence by Rear Admiral K R Srinivasan.
NHO 2005 Bathymetric chart no. 217 from Kundapura to Kasaragod, India; National Hydrographic Office of India, Superintendence by Rear Admiral B R Rao.
Rao V R, Ramana Murthy M V, Bhat M and Reddy N T 2009 Littoral sediment transport and shoreline changes along Ennore on the southeast coast of India: Field observations and numerical modeling; Geomorphology 112 158–166, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.geomorph.2009.05.015.
Roelvink J A 1993 Dissipation in random wave groups incident on a beach; Coast. Eng. 19(1–2) 127–150.
Roelvink J A, Reniers A, Van Dongeren A, Van Thiel De Vries J, Lescinski J and McCall R 2010 XBeach Model Description and Manual; Delft, Unesco-IHE Institute for Water Education, Deltares and Delft Univ. of Tech.
Rosati J D and Kraus N C 2003 Sediment budget analysis system (SBAS): Upgrade for regional applications; Coastal and Hydraulics Engineering Technical Note, Vicksburg, https://erdc-library.erdc.dren.mil/jspui/bitstream/11681/5013/1/ERDC-CHL-CHETN-XIV-3.pdf.
Sajeev R, Chandramohan P, Josanto V and Sankaranarayanan V N 1997 Studies on sediment transport along Kerala coast, southwest coast of India; Indian J. Mar. Sci. 26(1) 11–15.
Sanil Kumar V, Johnson G, Udhaba Dora G, Sajiv Philip C, Jai Singh and Pednekar P 2012 Variations in nearshore waves along Karnataka, west coast of India; J. Earth Syst. Sci. 121 393–403, https://doi.org/10.1007/s12040-012-0160-3.
Sanil Kumar V, Shanas P R, Udhaba Dora G, Glejin J and Philip S 2017 Longshore sediment transport in the surf zone based on different formulae: A case study along the central west coast of India; J. Coast. Conserv. 21 1–13, https://doi.org/10.1007/s11852-016-0462-8.
Semedo A, Suselj K, Rutgersson A and Sterl A 2011 A global view on the wind sea and swell climate and variability from ERA-40; J. Climate 24(5) 1461–1479, https://doi.org/10.1175/2010JCLI3718.1.
Shanas P R and Sanil Kumar V 2014 Coastal processes and longshore sediment transport along Kundapura coast, central west coast of India; Geomorphology 214 436–451, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geomorph.2014.02.027.
Shetty A, Jayappa K S, Ramakrishnan R and Rajawat A S 2019 Shoreline dynamics and vulnerability assessment along the Karnataka coast, India: A geo-statistical approach; J. Indian Soc. Remote Sens. 47 1223–1234, https://doi.org/10.1007/s12524-019-00980-0.
Shetye S R, Shenoi S S C, Antony M K and Kumar V K 1985 Monthly-mean wind stress along the coast of the north Indian Ocean; J. Earth Syst. Sci. 94(2) 129–137, https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02871945.
Udhaba Dora G, Sanil Kumar V, Glejin J, Philip S and Vinayaraj P 2012 Short-term observation of beach dynamics using cross-shore profiles and foreshore sediment; Ocean Coast. Manag. 67 101–112, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocecoaman.2012.07.003.
Van Rijn L C 2002 Approximation formulae for sand transport by currents and waves and implementation in DELFT-MOR; Delft Hydraulics, Delft, Netherlands, https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/a4e6/96266d15c15e8a4f19e91adbfc73515732f2.pdf.
Van Rijn L C 2014 A simple general expression for longshore transport of sand, gravel and shingle; Coast. Eng. 90 23–39, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2014.04.008.
Walton T L and Bruno R O 1989 Longshore transport at a detached breakwater; Phase-II; J. Coast. Res. 65(9) 667–668.
Acknowledgements
The authors are thankful to the Space Applications Centre, ISRO, Ahmedabad for the award of a research project under the Meteorology and Oceanography Programme – III. Indian National Centre for Ocean Information Services and National Hydrographic Office of India are acknowledged for providing necessary data. The authors thank the anonymous reviewers for their constructive comments, which helped us to improve the manuscript.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Contributions
Ateeth Shetty carried out literature review, study design, data collection, modelling, result interpretation, manuscript preparation, and Prof. K S Jayappa conceptualized and supervised the methodology, reviewed, revised, provided inputs for improvement and approved the final manuscript during peer-review process.
Corresponding author
Additional information
Communicated by M Dileep
Corresponding editor: M Dileep
Supplementary materials pertaining to this article are available on the Journal of Earth Science Website (http://www.ias.ac.in/Journals/Journal_of_Earth_System_Science).
Electronic supplementary material
Below is the link to the electronic supplementary material.
Rights and permissions
About this article
Cite this article
Shetty, A., Jayappa, K.S. Seasonal variation in longshore sediment transport rate and its impact on sediment budget along the wave-dominated Karnataka coast, India. J Earth Syst Sci 129, 234 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1007/s12040-020-01504-y
Received:
Revised:
Accepted:
Published:
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s12040-020-01504-y