Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

Cusp morphodynamics in a micro-tidal exposed beach

  • Published:
Journal of Coastal Conservation Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

Beach cusps have attracted the focus of several studies due to their effect on sediment transport and their rhythmic presence in the midst of complex nearshore interactions among waves, currents and sediment. In this paper, cusp evolution is investigated to determine the factors which influence them within Maracas Bay, Trinidad, in the micro-tidal environment of the southern Caribbean. Data on beach profiles, beach sediment, coastal processes, and cusp dimensions were collected using standard geomorphological techniques across daily, weekly and seasonal time-scales. Results indicate that beach cusp dimensions are predominantly determined by beach volume and beach angle. These two parameters in turn are influenced by wave energy. In both the wet and dry seasons, periods of lower wave energy promote accretion, leading to the formation of smaller beach cusps; conversely, periods of higher wave energy and the associated increase in erosion result in the formation of larger beach cusps. There was agreement with the self-organization theory since cusps were always present along the beach, constantly changing morphologically but never completely being erased and recreated anew. Beach cusps form an integral part of the total sediment deposited and retained on beaches over tidal and seasonal cycles, with implications for nearshore currents and beach safety. As such, a proper understanding of their dynamics will help support planning and management of beaches as they go through cyclic phases annually.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Log in via an institution

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Institutional subscriptions

Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
Fig. 7

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  • Almar R, Coco G, Bryan K, Huntley D, Short A, Senechal N (2008) Video observations of beach cusp morphodynamics. Mar Geol 254(3–4):216–223

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Aoki H, Sunamura T (2000) A laboratory experiment on the formation and morphology of beach cusps. Trans Japan Geomorphol Union 21:291–306

    Google Scholar 

  • Blott SJ, Pye K (2001) GRADISTAT: a grain size distribution and statistics package for the analysis of unconsolidated sediment. Earth Surf Processes 26(11):1237–1248

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ciriano Y, Coco G, Bryan KR, Elgar S (2005) Field observations of swash zone infragravity motions and beach cusp evolution. J Geophys Res. doi:10.1029/2004JC002485

  • Coco G, Huntley D, O'Hare T (2000) Investigation of a self-organization model for beach cusp formation and development. J Geophys Res 105(C9):21991

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Coco G, Huntley D, O'Hare T (2001) Regularity and randomness in the formation of beach cusps. Mar Geol 178:1–9

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Coco G, Burnet TK, Werner BT, Elgar S (2003) Test of self-organization in beach cusp formation. J Geophys Res 108(C3):3101. doi:10.1029/2002JC001496

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Coco G, Burnet TK, Werner BT, Elgar S (2004) The role of tides in beach cusp development. J Geophys Res 109:C04011. doi:10.1029/2003JC002154

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Darsan J (2013) Beach morphological dynamics at Cocos bay (Manzanilla), Trinidad. Atl Geol 49:151–168

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Darsan J, Alexis C (2014) The impact of makeshift sandbag groynes on coastal geomorphology: a case study at Columbus Bay, Trinidad. Environ Nat Resource Res 4(1):94

    Google Scholar 

  • Darsan J, Ramnath S, Alexis C (2012) Status of beaches and bays in Trinidad (2004–2008). Technical Report, Institute of Marine Affairs, Trinidad

    Google Scholar 

  • Darsan J, Asmath H, Jehu A (2013) Flood-risk mapping for storm surge and tsunami at Cocos bay (Manzanilla), Trinidad. J Coast Conserv 17(3):679–689

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Dodd N, Stoker A, Calvete D, Sriariyawat A (2008) On beach cusp formation. J Fluid Mech 597:145–169

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Dubois R (1978) Beach topography and beach cusps. Geol Soc Am Bull 89(8):1133

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Folk R, Ward W (1957) Brazos River bar [Texas]; a study in the significance of grain size parameters. J Sediment Res 27(1):3–26

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • van Gaalen J, Kruse S, Coco G, Collins L, Doering T (2011) Observations of beach cusp evolution at Melbourne Beach, Florida, USA. Geomorphology 129(1):131–140

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Garnier R, Ortega-Sánchez M, Losada M, Falqués A, Dodd N (2010) Beach cusps and inner surf zone processes: growth or destruction? A case study of Trafalgar Beach (Cádiz, Spain). Sci Mar 74(3):539–553

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Goudie A (1990) Geomorphological techniques. Unwin Hyman, London

    Google Scholar 

  • Guza R, Bowen AJ (1981) On the amplitude of beach cusps. J Geophys Res 86:4125–4132

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Guza R, Inman D (1975) Edge waves and beach cusps. J Geophys Res 80(21):2997–3012

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Hardisty J (1990) Beaches: form and process. Unwin Hyman, London

    Google Scholar 

  • Johnson D (1919) Shore processes and shoreline development. John Wiley & Sons, Inc. New York

    Google Scholar 

  • Johnson JW (1949) Scale effects in hydraulic model involving wave motion. Am Geophys Union Trans 30:517–525

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kaliraj S, Chandrasekar N, Magesh N (2013) Impacts of wave energy and littoral currents on shoreline erosion/accretion along the south-west coast of Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu using DSAS and geospatial technology. Environ Earth Sci 71(10):4523–4542

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • King C (1959) Beaches and coasts. Edward Arnold, London

    Google Scholar 

  • Komar P (1998) Beach processes and sedimentation. Prentice Hall, Upper Saddle River

    Google Scholar 

  • Lopez V, Pais-Barbosa J, Taveira-Pinto F, Veloso-Gomes F (2011) Beach cusps: using multivariate data analysis techniques for the identification of important variables and for predicting their spacing. In proceedings of the 11th international coastal symposium-ICS: 1106-1110

  • Masselink G, Pattiaratchi CB (1998) Morphological evolution of beach cusps and associated swash circulation. Mar Geol 146:93–113

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Masselink G, Hughes M, Knight J (2011) Introduction to coastal processes and geomorphology. Hodder Education, London

    Google Scholar 

  • Mwakumanya M, Bdo O (2007) Beach morphological dynamics: a case study of Nyali and Bamburi beaches in Mombasa, Kenya. J Coast Res 232:374–379

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Nolan T, Kirk R, Shulmeister J (1999) Beach cusp morphology on sand and mixed sand and gravel beaches, South Island, New Zealand. Mar Geol 157(3–4):185–198

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Pruszak Z, Różyński G, Szmytkiewicz M, Skaja M (2007) Field observation of edge waves and beach cusps on the South Baltic Sea coast. J Coast Res 234:846–860

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ramcharan E, McAndrews J (2006) Holocene development of coastal wetland at Maracas Bay, Trinidad, West Indies. J Coast Res 22(3):581–586

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Russell R, McIntire W (1965) Beach Cusps. Geol Soc Am Bull 76(3):307

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Sallenger A (1979) Beach-cusp formation. Mar Geol 29:23–37

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Shepard FP, Emery KO, LaFond EC (1941) Rip currents: a process of geological importance. J Geol 49(4):337–369

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Thornton EB, MacMahan J, Sallenger AH (2007) Rip currents, mega-cusps, and eroding dunes. Mar Geol 240(1):151–167

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Vasdoukas M (2012) Erosion/accretion patterns and multiple beach cusp systems on a meso-tidal, steeply-sloping beach. Geomorphology 141-142:34–46

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Werner B, Fink T (1993) Beach cusps as self-organized patterns. Science 260(5110):968–971

    Article  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Department of Geography, University of the West Indies, St Augustine, Trinidad, Trinidad and Tobago

    Sayyida Ali, Junior Darsan & Matthew Wilson

Authors
  1. Sayyida Ali
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  2. Junior Darsan
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  3. Matthew Wilson
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Sayyida Ali.

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this article

Ali, S., Darsan, J. & Wilson, M. Cusp morphodynamics in a micro-tidal exposed beach. J Coast Conserv 21, 777–788 (2017). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11852-017-0536-2

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Revised:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s11852-017-0536-2

Keywords

Search

Navigation