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Simulation Study of Disastrous Waves Along Indonesian Offshore and Coast Under Roaring Forties and Tropical Cyclones

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Abstract

Indonesian offshore and coastal areas are vulnerable to swells from Roaring Forties and cyclone disasters. However, the understanding of the characteristics and propagation mechanisms of local disastrous waves is insufficient, posing a threat to the construction, maintenance, and protection of coastal structures. This study establishes a multiple nested wave model based on the third-generation wave model WAVEWATCH III. This model includes sole forcing of Roaring Forties and combined forcing of Roaring Forties and cyclone Ernie to simulate the influence of disastrous waves under the Roaring Forties and tropical cyclones in the Indonesian offshore zone and coasts. The following results are obtained. The Indonesian offshore is prevailed by relatively stable southern to southwestern dominant swells and small wind waves under the impacts of the Roaring Forties without cyclone winds. Long propagating swells originated from the Roaring Forties dominate in nearshore coastal waters with deformed directions and strength because of the shoaling effect.

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Funding

Supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 51920105013)

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Correspondence to Tian Xing.

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Article Highlights

• Three-layer nesting wave model is applied from Indian Ocean to Indonesia coast, to ensure that all wave energy is not lost whether from Roaring Forties or local winds, also to ensure high resolution simulation from large domain to coastal waters.

• Waves and detailed 2D wave spectral structure along Indonesian offshore and coast are simulated and studied, under conditions of Roaring Forties alone, combined influence of tropical cyclone Ernie and Roaring Forties.

• Compared with cyclone generated waves, the Indonesian offshore and coast is prevailed by relatively stable southern — southwestern dominant swells, under the impacts of Roaring Forties.

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Xu, F., Yu, M., Xing, T. et al. Simulation Study of Disastrous Waves Along Indonesian Offshore and Coast Under Roaring Forties and Tropical Cyclones. J. Marine. Sci. Appl. 21, 80–91 (2022). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11804-022-00252-3

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s11804-022-00252-3

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