Operational wave now- and forecast in the German Bight as a basis for the assessment of wave-induced hydrodynamic loads on coastal dikes

Abstract

The knowledge of the wave-induced hydrodynamic loads on coastal dikes including their temporal and spatial resolution on the dike in combination with actual water levels is of crucial importance of any risk-based early warning system. As a basis for the assessment of the wave-induced hydrodynamic loads, an operational wave now- and forecast system is set up that consists of i) available field measurements from the federal and local authorities and ii) data from numerical simulation of waves in the German Bight using the SWAN wave model. In this study, results of the hindcast of deep water wave conditions during the winter storm on 5–6 December, 2013 (German name ‘Xaver’) are shown and compared with available measurements. Moreover field measurements of wave run-up from the local authorities at a sea dike on the German North Sea Island of Pellworm are presented and compared against calculated wave run-up using the EurOtop (2016) approach.

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Acknowledgements

The results described in this publication are achieved within the joint research project EarlyDike–Sensor and Risk based Early Warning Systems for Coastal Dikes (No. 03G0847C), funded by the German Ministry of Education and Research (BMBF).

Moreover the authors would like to thank the Local Authorities for Coastal Protection (NLWKN, Norden and LKN-SH), the German Federal Maritime Authority (BSH) and the German Meteorological Service (DWD) for providing the data required for the set-up, assessment and operation of the operational wave model.

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Correspondence to Norman Dreier.

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Dreier, N., Fröhle, P. Operational wave now- and forecast in the German Bight as a basis for the assessment of wave-induced hydrodynamic loads on coastal dikes. J. Ocean Univ. China 16, 991–997 (2017). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11802-017-3382-9

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Key words

  • German Bight
  • North Sea
  • wave forecast
  • Cosmo-Model
  • SWAN
  • hydrodynamic loads
  • wave run-up
  • EurOtop