Skip to main content
Log in

Numerical study of the secondary circulations in rip current systems

  • Published:
Journal of Ocean University of China Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

To investigate the mechanism of secondary circulations in rip current systems, and to explore the relationship between wave conditions and secondary circulation intensity, a series of numerical experiments is performed using coupled nearshore wave model and circulation model. In these experiments, the rip currents and secondary circulations generated above barred beaches with rip channels are simulated. A comparison experiment is conducted to investigate the formation and hydrodynamics of the secondary circulations. Model results indicate that the secondary circulations consist of alongshore flows driven by wave set-up near the shoreline, part of the feeder currents driven by the wave set-up over the bars, and onshore flows at the end of the rip channel driven by wave breaking and convection. The existence of the secondary circulation barely affects the rip current, but narrows and intensifies the feeder currents. Three groups of experiments of varying incident wave conditions are performed to investigate the relationship between wave conditions and secondary circulation intensity. The velocity of the alongshore flow of the secondary circulation is sensitive to the variation of the incident wave height and water depth. It is also found that the alongshore flow intensity is in direct proportion to the alongshore variation of the wave height gradient between the bars and the shoreline.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  • Aagaard, T., Greenwood, B., and Nielsen, J., 1997. Mean currents and sediment transport in a rip channel. Marine Geology, 140(1–2): 25–45.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Austin, M., Scott, T., Brown, J., Brown, J., and MacMahan, J., 2009. Macrotidal rip current experiment, circulation and dynamics. Journal of Coastal Research, 56: 24–28.

    Google Scholar 

  • Austin, M., Scott, T., Brown, J., Brown, J., MacMahan, J., Masselink, G., and Russell, P., 2010. Temporal observations of rip current circulation on a macro-tidal beach. Continental Shelf Research, 30(9): 1149–1165.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Borthwick, A. G. L., and Foote, Y. L. M., 2002. Wave-induced nearshore currents at a tri-cuspate beach in the UKCRF. Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers-Water & Maritime Engineering, 154(4): 251–263.

    Google Scholar 

  • Brander, R. W., 1999. Field observations on the morphodynamic evolution of a low-energy rip current system. Marine Geology, 157(3–4): 199–217.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Cook, D. O., 1970. The occurrence and geologic work of rip currents off southern California. Marine Geology, 9(3): 173–186.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Dronen, N., Karunarathna, H., Fredsoe, J., Sumer, B. M., and Deigaard, R., 2002. An experimental study of rip channel flow. Coastal Engineering, 45(3–4): 223–238.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ebersole, B. A., and Dalrymple, R. A., 1980. Numerical modeling of nearshore circulation. In: Proceedings of 17th Conference on Coastal Engineering. No. 17, Sydney, Australia.

    Google Scholar 

  • Farahani, R. J., Dalrymple, R. A., Hérault, A., and Bilotta, G., 2012. SPH modeling of mean velocity circulation in a rip current system. In: Proceedings of 33rd Conference on Coastal Engineering. No. 33, Santander, Spain.

    Google Scholar 

  • Haas, K. A., and Svendsen, I. A., 2002. Laboratory measurements of the vertical structure of rip currents. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 107(C5): 1–19.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Haas, K. A., and Warner, J. C., 2009. Comparing a quasi-3D to a full 3D nearshore circulation model: SHORECIRC and ROMS. Ocean Modelling, 26(1–2): 91–103.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Haas, K. A., Svendsen, I. A., Haller, M. C., and Zhao, Q., 2003. Quasi-three-dimensional modeling of rip current systems. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 108(C7): 1–21.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Haller, M. C., Dalrymple, R. A., and Svendsen, I. A., 2002. Experimental study of nearshore dynamics on a barred beach with rip channels. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 107(C6): 1–21.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Huntley, D. A., Hendry, M. D., Haines, J., and Greenidge, B., 1988. Waves and rip currents on a Caribbean pocket beach, Jamaica. Journal of Coastal Research, 4(1): 69–79.

    Google Scholar 

  • Inman, D. L., Tait, R. J., and Nordstrom, C. E., 1971. Mixing in the surf zone. Journal of Geophysical Research, 76(15): 3493–3514.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kirby, J. T., and Dalrymple, R. A., 1983. A parabolic equation for the combined refraction and diffraction of Stokes waves by mildly varying topography. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 136: 453–466.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kumar, N., Voulgaris, G., and Warner, J. C., 2011. Implementation and modification of a three-dimensional radiation stress formulation for surf zone and rip-current applications. Coastal Engineering, 58(12): 1097–1117.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Longuet-Higgins, M. S., and Stewart, R. W., 1964. Radiation stress in water waves: A physical discussion, with applications. Deep-Sea Research, 11(4): 529–562.

    Google Scholar 

  • MacMahan, J. H., Thornton, E. B., and Reniers, A. J. H. M., 2006. Rip current review. Coastal Engineering, 53(2–3): 191–208.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Noda, E. K., 1974. Wave-induced nearshore circulation. Journal of Geophysical Research, 79(27): 4097–4106.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Putrevu, U., and Svendsen, I. A., 1999. Three-dimensional dispersion of momentum in wave-induced nearshore currents. European Journal of Mechanics-B/Fluids, 18(3): 409–427.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ruju, A., Higuera, P., Lara, J. L., Losada, I. J., and Coco, G., 2012. Rip currents on a barred beach. In: Proceedings of 33rd Conference on Coastal Engineering. No. 33, Santander, Spain.

    Google Scholar 

  • Shepard, F. P., and Inman, D. L., 1950. Nearshore water circulation related to bottom topography and refraction. Eos, Transactions American Geophysical Union, 31(2): 196–212.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Shi, F., Kirby, J. T., Newberger, P., and Haas, K., 2005. Near-CoM master program, Version 2005.4: User’s manual and module integration. University of Delaware.

    Google Scholar 

  • Short, A. D., 1999. Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodynamics. John Wiley and Sons, 392pp.

    Google Scholar 

  • Short, A. D., and Hogan, C. L., 1994. Rip currents and beach hazards: Their impact on public safety and implications for coastal management. Journal of Coastal Research, 12: 197–209.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sonu, C. J., 1972. Field observation of nearshore circulation and meandering currents. Journal of Geophysical Research, 77(18): 3232–3247.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Svendsen, I. A., 1984a. Wave heights and set-up in a surf zone. Coastal Engineering, 8(4): 303–329.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Svendsen, I. A., 1984b. Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone. Coastal Engineering, 8(4): 347–365.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Svendsen, I. A., Haas, K., and Zhao, Q., 2003. Quasi-3D nearshore circulation model SHORECIRC. User’s Manual. University of Delaware, 64pp.

    Google Scholar 

  • Weir, B., Uchiyama, Y., Lane, E. M., Restrepo, J. M., and McWilliams, J. C., 2011. A vortex force analysis of the interaction of rip currents and surface gravity waves. Journal of Geophysical Research, 116(C5): 1–16.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Wright, L. D., and Short, A. D., 1984. Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis. Marine Geology, 56(1–4): 93–118.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Wu, C., and Liu, P., 1985. Finite element modeling of nonlinear coastal currents. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 111(2): 417–432.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Yu, J., and Slinn, D. N., 2003. Effects of wave-current interaction on rip currents. Journal of Geophysical Research, 108(C3): 1–19.

    Article  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Changlong Guan.

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this article

Li, R., Guan, C. Numerical study of the secondary circulations in rip current systems. J. Ocean Univ. China 14, 9–16 (2015). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11802-015-2361-2

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Revised:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s11802-015-2361-2

Key words

Navigation