Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

Advantage of Sodium Polyoxyethylene Lauryl Ether Carboxylate as a Mild Cleansing Agent

  • Original Article
  • Published:
Journal of Surfactants and Detergents

Abstract

Five anionic surfactants widely used in commercial skin cleansers were studied: sodium polyoxyethylene lauryl ether carboxylate (EC), sodium polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfate (ES), sodium dodecyl sulfate, potassium laurate, and N-cocoyl-l-glutamic acid monosodium salt. The amount of surfactant from aqueous solution adsorbed into the stratum corneum (SC), the degree of SC swelling, the change of the secondary structure of SC proteins (denaturation). The surface tension of surfactant–zein mixed solutions, and the solubilization behavior of zein were measured. Results showed that EC had the lowest adsorption into SC, the lowest SC swelling, and lowest denaturation of SC proteins. Low interactions between surfactants and SC proteins were also observed for EC/ES mixture solutions as well as. Mixing EC with ES good foaming performance. The EC/ES mixture, at about 1:1 ratio, is an excellent surfactant system for skin cleanser applications having cleansing characteristics and mildness to the skin.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Log in via an institution

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Institutional subscriptions

Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 8

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  1. Rhein LD (1997) In vitro interactions: biochemical and biophysical effects of surfactants on skin. In: Rieger MM, Rhein LD (eds) Surfactants in cosmetics. Marcel Dekker Inc, New York, pp 397–426

    Google Scholar 

  2. Imokawa G (1997) Surfactant mildness. In: Rieger MM, Rhein LD (eds) Surfactants in cosmetics. Marcel Dekker Inc, New York, pp 427–471

    Google Scholar 

  3. Spears MJ, McKillop K, Marshall JL, Stone KJ, Lilly NA, Warner RR, Boissy YL (1999) Water disrupts stratum corneum lipid lamellae: damage is similar to surfactants. J Invest Dermatol 113:960–966

    Article  Google Scholar 

  4. Abraham W (1997) Surfactant effects on skin barrier. In: Rieger MM, Rhein LD (eds) Surfactants in cosmetics. Marcel Dekker Inc, New York, pp 473–487

    Google Scholar 

  5. Wilheim KP, Surber C, Maibach HI (1989) Quantification of sodium lauryl sulfate irritant dermatitis in man: comparison of four techniques: skin color reflectance, transepidermal water loss, laser Doppler flow measurement and visual scores. Arch Dermatol Res 281:293–295

    Article  Google Scholar 

  6. Agner T, Serup J (1990) Sodium lauryl sulphate for irritant patch testing—a dose-response study using bioengineering methods for determination of skin irritation. J Invest Dermatol 95:543–547

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  7. Wilheim KP, Cua AB, Wolff HH, Maibach HI (1993) Surfactant-induced stratum corneum hydration in vivo: prediction of the irritation potential of anionic surfactants. J Invest Dermatol 101:310–315

    Article  Google Scholar 

  8. Nicander I, Ollmar S, Eek A, Rozell BL, Emtestam L (1996) Correlation of impedance response patterns to histological finding in irritant skin reactions induced by various surfactants. Br J Dermatol 134:221–228

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  9. Regan J, Mollica L-M, Ananthapadmanabhan KP (2013) A novel glycinate-based body wash: clinical investigation into ultra-mildness, effective conditioning, and improved consumer benefits. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol 6:23–30

    Google Scholar 

  10. Wolf R, Parish LC (2012) Effect of soaps and detergents on epidermal barrier function. Clin Dermatol 30:297–300

    Article  Google Scholar 

  11. Faucher JA, Goddard ED (1978) Interaction of keratinous substrates with sodium lauryl sulfate: I. Sorption J Soc Cosmet Chem 29:323–337

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  12. Dominguez JG, Balaguer F, Parra JL, Pelejero CM (1981) The Inhibitory effect of some amphoteric surfactants on the irritation potential of alkylsulfates. Int J Cosmet Soc 3:57–68

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  13. Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Yang L, Vincent C, Tsaur L, Vetro K, Foy V, Zhang S, Ashkenazi A, Pashkovski E, Subramanian V (2009) A novel technology in mild and moisturizing cleansing liquids. Cosmet Dermatol 22:307–316

    Google Scholar 

  14. Moore PN, Puvvada S, Blankschtein D (2003) Role of the surfactant polar head structure in protein-surfactant complexation: zein protein solubilization by SDS and by SDS/C12E n surfactant solutions. Langmuir 19:1009–1016

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  15. Rhein LD, Robbins CR, Fernee K, Cantore R (1986) Surfactant structure effects on swelling of isolated human stratum corneum. J Soc Cosmet Chem 37:125–139

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  16. Hill RL, Rhein LD (1988) Characterization of the sub-micellar species in mixed surfactant solutions. I: mixtures of sodium lauryl sulfate and an alkyl polyethoxy sulfate. J Disp Sci Technol 9(3):269–308

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  17. Rhein LD, Simion FA, Hill RL, Cagan RH, Mattai J, Maibach HI (1990) Human cutaneous response to a mixed surfactant system: role of solution phenomena in controlling surfactant irritation. Dermatologica 180:18–23

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  18. Meijer H, Smid JK (1996) Polyether carboxylates. In: Stache HW (ed) Anionic surfactants: organic chemistry. Marcel Dekker, New York, pp 314–361

    Google Scholar 

  19. Takagi Y, Shimizu Y, Morokuma Y, Miyaki M, Kiba A, Matsuo K, Isoda K, Mizutani H (2014) A new formula for a mild body cleanser: sodium laureth sulfate supplemented with sodium laureth carboxylate and lauryl glucoside. Int J Cosmet Sci 36(4):305–311

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  20. Endo K et al., in preparation

  21. Hasada K, Yoshida T, Yamazaki T, Sugimoto N, Nishimura T, Nagatsu A, Mizukami H (2010) Quantitative determination of atractylon in Atractylodis rhizoma and Atractylodis lanceae rhizoma by 1H-NMR spectroscopy. J Nat Med 64:161–166

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  22. Hasada K, Yoshida T, Yamazaki T, Sugimoto N, Nishimura T, Nagatsu A, Mizukami H (2011) Application of 1H-NMR spectroscopy to validation of berberine alkaloid reagents and to chemical evaluation of coptidis rhizoma. J Nat Med 65:262–267

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  23. Sugimoto N, Koike R, Furusho N, Tanno M, Yomota C, Sato K, Yamazaki T, Tanamoto K (2007) Quantitative nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopic determination of the oxyethylene group content of polysorbates. Food Addit Contam 24(8):799–806

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  24. Blake-Haskins JC, Scala D, Rhein LD, Robbins CR (1986) Predicting surfactant irritation from the swelling response of a collagen film. J Soc Cosmet Chem 37:199–210

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  25. Robbins CR, Fernee KM (1983) Some observations on the swelling of human epidermal membrane. J Soc Cosmet Chem 34:21–34

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  26. Stuart B, Ando DJ (eds) (1997) Biological applications of infrared spectroscopy. Wiley, Chichester, pp 113–153

    Google Scholar 

  27. Rastogi SK, Singh J (2003) Passive and iontophoretic transport enhancement of insulin through porcine epidermis by depilatories: permeability and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy studies. AAPS Pharm Sci Tech 4:1–9

    Article  Google Scholar 

  28. Yadav S, Wickett RR, Pinto NG, Kasting GB, Thiel SW (2009) Comparative thermodynamic and spectroscopic properties of water interaction with human stratum corneum. Skin Res Technol 15:172–179

    Article  Google Scholar 

  29. Zhang G, Moore DJ, Flach CR, Mendelsohn R (2007) Vibrational microscopy and imaging of skin: from single cells to intact tissue. Anal Bioanal Chem 387:1591–1599

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  30. Lindman B (2002) Surfactant—polymer systems. In: Holmberg K (ed) Handbook of applied surface and colloid chemistry. Wiley, Chichester, pp 445–464

    Google Scholar 

  31. Morrison BM, Paye MJ (1995) A comparison of three in vitro screening tests with an in vivo clinical test to evaluate the irritation potential of antibacterial liquid soaps. J Soc Cosmet Chem 46:291–299

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  32. Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Yu KK, Meyers CL, Aronson MP (1996) Binding of surfactants to stratum corneum. J Soc Cosmet Chem 47:185–200

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  33. Pezron I, Galet L, Clausse DJ (1996) Surface interaction between a protein monolayer and surfactants and its correlation with skin irritation by surfactants. J Colloid Interface Sci 180:285–289

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  34. Gotte E (1964) Skin tolerance of surfactants as measured by the ability to dissolve zein. In: Proc. IVth international congress on surface active substances, Brussels, pp 83–90

  35. Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Moore DJ, Subramanyan K, Misra M, Meyer F (2004) Cleansing without compromise: the impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatol Ther 17(s1):16–25

    Article  Google Scholar 

  36. Deo N, Jockusch S, Turro NJ, Somasundaran P (2003) Surfactant interactions with zein protein. Langmuir 19:5083–5088

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  37. Warner RR, Stone KJ, Boissy YL (2003) Hydration disrupts human stratum corneum ultrastructure. J Invest Dermatol 120:275–284

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  38. Jönsson B, Lindman B, Holmberg K, Kronberg B (2002) Surfactants and polymers in aqueous solution, 2nd edn. Wiley, Chichester

    Google Scholar 

  39. Sakai T, Ikoshi R, Toshida N, Kagaya M (2013) Thermodynamically stable vesicle formation and vesicle-to-micelle transition of single-tailed anionic surfactant in water. J Phys Chem B 117:5081–5089

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Skin Care Products Research Laboratories, Kao Corporation, 2-1-3 Bunka, Sumida-ku, Tokyo, 131-8501, Japan

    Toshiaki Ozawa, Takashi Masui & Masahiro Miyaki

  2. Analytical Science Research Laboratories, Kao Corporation, 2-1-3 Bunka, Sumida-ku, Tokyo, 131-8501, Japan

    Koji Endo

  3. Health Beauty Products Research Laboratories, Kao Corporation, 2-1-3 Bunka, Sumida-ku, Tokyo, 131-8501, Japan

    Keiko Matsuo

  4. Analytical Science Research Laboratories, Kao Corporation, 1334 Minato, Wakayama, Wakayama, 640-8580, Japan

    Shinji Yamada

Authors
  1. Toshiaki Ozawa
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  2. Koji Endo
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  3. Takashi Masui
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  4. Masahiro Miyaki
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  5. Keiko Matsuo
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  6. Shinji Yamada
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Toshiaki Ozawa.

About this article

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this article

Ozawa, T., Endo, K., Masui, T. et al. Advantage of Sodium Polyoxyethylene Lauryl Ether Carboxylate as a Mild Cleansing Agent. J Surfact Deterg 19, 785–794 (2016). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11743-016-1835-6

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s11743-016-1835-6

Keywords

Search

Navigation