Skip to main content
Log in

Dressing as a Sage: Clothing and Self-cultivation in Early Confucian Thought

  • Published:
Dao Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

This article examines the reasons early Confucians offer to support the belief that clothing is formative of its wearer’s character, as well as the arguments other early Chinese texts raise to object to it. It focuses on early Confucian discourses about three representative items of clothing, including the cap (guan 冠) used in the coming-of-age ceremony, the accessories made by jade (yu 玉), and a style of clothing named shenyi 深衣 (deep clothing). These cases demonstrate that, in early Confucian thought, clothing is said to be able to shape the wearer’s character by registering in the wearer its moral symbolism with both psychological-cognitive and bodily means. While this emphasis on symbolism also invites objections that undermine the normative status early Confucians want to ascribe to a specific style of clothing, their discourses still enrich the current understanding of Confucian self-cultivation, in terms of both its method and goals.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  • Ames, Roger T. 1984. “The Meaning of the Body in Classical Chinese Philosophy.” International Philosophical Quarterly 24.1: 39–54.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • ______. 2011. Confucian Role Ethics: A Vocabulary. Hong Kong: The Chinese University Press.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Baihutong, A Concordance to the 白虎通逐字索引. 1995. Edited by D. C. Lau 劉殿爵, Ho Che Wah 何志華, and Chen Fong Ching 陳方正. Hong Kong 香港: Shangwu Yinshuguan 商務印書館.

  • Bari, Shahidha. 2016. “What Do Clothes Say?” Aeon, https://aeon.co/essays/why-does-philosophy-hold-clothes-in-such-low-regard (last accessed on July 22, 2021).

  • Bucar, Elizabeth. 2017. Pious Fashion: How Muslim Women Dress. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Csikszentmihalyi, Mark. 2004. Material Virtue: Ethics and the Body in Early China. Leiden: Brill.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Eicher, Joanne B. 2000. “The Anthropology of Dress.” Dress: The Journal of the Costume Society of America 27.1: 59–71.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Giorcelli, Cristina, and Paula Rabinowitz, ed. 2011–2015. Habits of Being, 4 vols. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press.

  • Hanfeizi, A Concordance to the 韓非子逐字索引. 2000. Edited by D. C. Lau 劉殿爵, Ho Che Wah 何志華, and Zhu Guofan 朱國藩. Hong Kong 香港: Shangwu Yinshuguan 商務印書館.

  • Hanshi Waizhuan, A Concordance to the 韓詩外傳逐字索引. 1992. Edited by D. C. Lau 劉殿爵. Taipei 台北: Taiwan Shangwu Yinshuguan 台灣商務印書館.

  • Hardy, Grant. 1993. “The Reconstruction of Ritual: Capping in Ancient China.” Journal of Ritual Studies 7.2: 69–90.

    Google Scholar 

  • Howard, Jeffery A. 1985. “Concepts of Comprehensiveness and Historical Changes in the Huai-nan-tzu.” In Explorations in Early Chinese Cosmology, edited by Henry Rosemont. Chico, CA: Scholars Press.

  • Huainanzi, A Concordance to the 淮南子逐字索引. 1992. Edited by D. C. Lau 劉殿爵. Taipei 台北: Taiwan Shangwu Yinshuguan 台灣商務印書館.

  • Ivanhoe, Philip. J. 2013. “Virtue Ethics and the Chinese Confucian Tradition.” In Virtue Ethics and Confucianism, edited by Stephen Angle and Michael Slote. New York: Routledge.

  • Johnson, Kim, Sharon Lennon, and Nancy Rudd. 2014. “Dress, Body and Self: Research in the Social Psychology of Dress.” Fashion and Textiles 1, https://doi.org/10.1186/s40691-014-0020-7.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Johnson, Mark. 1999. The Meaning of the Body: Aesthetics of Human Understanding. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Kongcongzi, A Concordance to the 孔叢子逐字索引. 1998. Edited by D. C. Lau 劉殿爵. Hong Kong 香港: Shangwu Yinshuguan 商務印書館.

  • Kongzi Jiayu, A Concordance to the 孔子家語逐字索引. 1992. Edited by D. C. Lau 劉殿爵. Taipei 台北: Taiwan Shangwu Yinshuguan 台灣商務印書館.

  • Lee, Seung-Hwan. 2004. “The Social Meaning of Body in Confucian Tradition: Between Moral and Political Power.” Korea Journal 44.2: 5–29.

    Google Scholar 

  • Legge, James. 1885. The Sacred Book of the East, vol. 28. Oxford: Oxford University Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Liji, A Concordance to the 禮記逐字索引. 1992. Edited by D. C. Lau 劉殿爵 and Chen Fong Ching 陳方正. Taipei 台北: Taiwan Shangwu Yinshuguan 台灣商務印書館.

  • Liu, Lele 劉樂樂. 2014. “From Shenyi to the Forms of Shenyi—The Changes of View on Ritual 從深衣到深衣制——禮儀觀的革變.” Cultural Heritage 文化遺產 2014.5: 111–119.

  • Louton, John. 1985. “Concepts of Comprehensiveness and Historical Change in the Lüshih ch’unch’iu.” In Explorations in Early Chinese Cosmology, edited by Henry Rosemont. Chico, CA: Scholars Press.

  • Lunyu, A Concordance to the 論語逐字索引. 1995. Edited by D. C. Lau 劉殿爵, Ho Che Wah 何志華, and Chen Fong Ching 陳方正. Hong Kong 香港: Shangwu Yinshuguan 商務印書館.

  • Ma, Duanlin 馬端臨. 1986. The Comprehensive Examination of Literature 文獻通考 (Complete Collection in Four Treasuries Wenyuange edition 文淵閣本四庫全書). Taipei 台北: Taiwan Shangwu Yinshuguan 臺灣商務印書館.

  • Mengzi, A Concordance to the 孟子逐字索引. 1995. Edited by D. C. Lau 劉殿爵, Ho Che Wah何志華, and Chen Fong Ching 陳方正. Hong Kong 香港: Shangwu Yinshuguan 商務印書館.

  • Mozi, A Concordance to the 墨子逐字索引. 2001. Edited by D. C. Lau 劉殿爵. Hong Kong 香港: Shangwu Yinshuguan 商務印書館.

  • Nussbaum, Martha. 2010. “Veiled Threats?” New York Times online opinion blog, https://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/07/11/veiled-threats/ (last accessed on July 22, 2021).

  • Olberding, Amy. 2012. Moral Exemplars in the Analects: The Good Person is That. New York: Routledge.

    Google Scholar 

  • Pan, Jianhua 潘建華. 1987. “A Study on the Forms of Shenyi in China 中國深衣制研究.” Theatre Arts 戲劇藝術 1987.4: 113–124.

  • Peng, Mei-Ling 彭美玲. 2002. “Exemplary Person and Ritual Comportments—Elaborating the Significance of Confucian Ritual Comportments 君子與容禮——儒家容禮述義.” Bulletin of the Department of Chinese Literature 台大中文學報16: 1–48.

  • Poon, Ming Kay 潘銘基. 2017. “The Intellectual Origin of Jia Yi’s Doctrine of ‘Using Six’ and the Dating of the ‘Six Techniques’ and ‘Discourses on Virtue and the Way’ Chapters 賈誼用六思想之淵源──兼論《六術》《道德說》之成篇年代.” Journal of the Masters 諸子學刊 14: 161–183.

  • Ruan, Yuan 阮元. 1997. Commentaries on the Thirteen Classics 十三經注疏. Tapbei 台北: Yiwen Yinshuguan 藝文印書館.

  • Ruggerone, Lucia. 2017. “The Feeling of Being Dressed: Affect Studies and the Clothed Body.” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body, and Culture 21.5: 573–593.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Shen, Congwen 沈從文. 1981. A Study of Clothing in Ancient China 中國古代服飾研究. Hong Kong 香港: Shangwu Yinshuguan 商務印書館.

  • Shuoyuan, A Concordance to the 說苑逐字索引. 1992. Edited by D. C. Lau 劉殿爵. Hong Kong 香港: Shangwu Yinshuguan 商務印書館.

  • Shusterman, Richard. 2009. “Pragmatist Aesthetics and Confucianism.” The Journal of Aesthetic Education 43.1: 18–29.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Sima, Qian 司馬遷. 1982. Records of the Grand Historian 史記. Beijing 北京: Zhonghua Shuju 中華書局.

  • Svendsen, Lars. 2006. Fashion: A Philosophy. London: Reaktion Books.

    Google Scholar 

  • Tang, Lucia Q. 2015. “Zhuangzi x Comme des Garçons: When Dress Meets Body in the Warring States.” In New Visions of the Zhuangzi, edited by Livia Kohn. St. Petersburg, FL: Three Pines Press.

  • Van Norden, Bryan W. 2007. Virtue Ethics and Consequentialism in Early Chinese Philosophy. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Wang. Jen-Hsiang 王仁祥. 2006. “The Concept of Weiyi in Pre-Qin 先秦威儀觀探論.” Chung-Hsing Journal of History 興大歷史學報 17: 261–292.

  • Xunzi, A Concordance to the 荀子逐字索引. 1996. Edited by D. C. Lau 劉殿爵. Hong Kong 香港: Shangwu Yinshuguan 商務印書館.

  • Yao, Haitao 姚海濤. 2018. “The Intellectual Horizon of Pre-Qin Confucian Discourses on Jade—Take Kongzi, Mengzi, and Xunzi as Examples 先秦儒家論玉的思想視界——以孔子、孟子、荀子為例.” Journal of Taiyuan Normal University (Social Science Edition) 太原師範學院學報 (社會科學版) 17.1: 5–10.

  • Zhuangzi, A Concordance to the 莊子逐字索引. 2000. Edited by D. C. Lau 劉殿爵 and Chen Fong Ching 陳方正. Hong Kong 香港: Shangwu Yinshuguan 商務印書館.

Download references

Acknowledgements

I would like to thank Dr. Michael D. K. Ing for giving many helpful comments on earlier versions of this article. I would also like to thank the two anonymous reviewers for their insightful suggestions.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Naiyi Hsu.

Additional information

Publisher's Note

Springer Nature remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations.

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this article

Hsu, N. Dressing as a Sage: Clothing and Self-cultivation in Early Confucian Thought. Dao 20, 567–588 (2021). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11712-021-09799-4

Download citation

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s11712-021-09799-4

Keywords

Navigation