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Reactive tendering: mechanism and solutions

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Abstract

This research studies how reactive dyes affect properties of cellulosics. It was found that covalently bonded reactive dyes accelerate acidic hydrolysis of cellulose and such an accelerated hydrolysis causes a decrease in durability of reactive dyed cellulosics, especially, those with heavy shades. The problem is unsolved due to the lack of knowledge of the mechanism of fiber tendering. This research investigates the effect of structures of reactive dyes on the degree of tendering of cotton. It demonstrates that tendering of dyed cotton can be attributed to the electric field effect of the dye on cellulose. Our research also finds that the poor wet-crocking fastness of reactive dyed cotton fabrics results from reactive tendering. Based on the proposed mechanism of fiber tendering, we have designed reactive dyes with minimized field effect which was quantified using simplified Kirkwood–Westheimer model. Fabrics dyed with these new dyes demonstrate the reduction in fiber tendering and the improvement in wet-crocking fastness.

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Acknowledgments

This research was financially supported by National Institute of Food and Agriculture [Multi-State Project S1054 (NEB 37-037)], USDA Hatch Act, and the Agricultural Research Division at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln. Authors are grateful to China Scholarship Council for its financial support to Wei Li, and the John and Louise Skala Fellowship and American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Students Grant for their financial support to Bingnan Mu.

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Correspondence to Yiqi Yang.

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Mu, B., Li, W. & Yang, Y. Reactive tendering: mechanism and solutions. Cellulose 26, 5769–5781 (2019). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10570-019-02459-0

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