Résumé
L’allergie cutanée se présente principalement comme le résultat de l’utilisation de produits domestiques et cosmétiques. Quelques fragrances, présentes dans ces produits, peuvent contenir des composés qui sont responsables de cette allergie. La Commission européenne a pris une directive limitant la teneur de 26 allergènes présents dans les produits cosmétiques. La technique de CPG-SM a été utilisée pour identifier 24 allergènes volatils, pour déterminer les limites de détection et de quantification et pour réaliser la calibration avec des solutions étalons de chaque allergène. Un plan d’expérience (Nemrod-W) a été utilisé pour déterminer les paramètres optimaux de la technique de CPG (colonne DB5-MS, 30 m, 0,25 mm d.i., 0,25 μm film; 50 °C (une minute), vitesse de chauffage à 3 °C/min jusqu’à 150 °C, puis 6 °C/min jusqu’à 235 °C, hélium 1,70 ml/min). Pour une bonne résolution entre les pics allergènes et leurs isomères, la durée de l’essai est inférieure à 50 minutes. L’intérêt de cette méthode est que même si beaucoup de terpénoïdes différents sont présents avec les allergènes dans les fragrances et dans les ingrédients destinés à la cosmétique, l’identification sera faite facilement grâce à l’utilisation des temps de rétention et des spectres de masse. La quantification est faîte par les modes SCAN ou SIM.
Abstract
Cutaneous allergy occurs mainly as a result of the use of domestic products and cosmetics. Some fragrances present in these products may contain compounds that are responsible for allergy (allergens). The European Council has issued a directive limiting the level of 26 allergens found in cosmetics. The GC-MS technique was used to identify 24 volatile allergens, determine detection and quantification limits and make calibration with the standard solutions of each allergen. An experimental design (Nemrod-W) was used to determine the optimal parameters of GC technique (DB5-MS column, 30 m, 0.25 mm i.d., 0.25 μm film; 50 °C (1 min), rate 1 at 3 °C/min until 150 °C, then rate 2 at 6 °C/min until 235 °C, helium 1.70 ml/min). A run of less than 50 min could be used with good resolution between allergens and their isomers. The interest of this method is that even if many various terpenoïds are present with allergens in fragrances and ingredients meant for cosmetics, the identification will be done easily with the use of retention times and mass spectra. The quantitation will be done in SCAN or SIM mode.
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Fattarsi, K., Mikail, C., Abou, L. et al. Étude par CPG-SM d’allergènes volatils dans les fragrances et autres ingrédients destinés à la cosmétique. Phytothérapie 9, 126–135 (2011). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10298-011-0624-7
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10298-011-0624-7