Abstract
The description of wave climate at a local scale is of paramount importance for offshore and coastal engineering applications. Conditions influencing wave characteristics at a specific location cannot, however, be fully understood by studying only local information. It is necessary to take into account the dynamics of the ocean surface over a large ‘upstream’ wave generation area. The goal of this work is to provide a methodology to easily characterize the area of influence of any particular ocean location worldwide. Moreover, the developed method is able to characterize the wave energy and travel time in that area. The method is based on a global scale analysis using both geographically and physically based criteria. The geographic criteria rely on the assumption that deep water waves travel along great circle paths. This limits the area of influence by neglecting energy that cannot reach a target point, as its path is blocked by land. The individual spectral partitions from a global wave reanalysis are used to reconstruct the spectral information and apply the physically based criteria. The criteria are based on the selection of the fraction of energy that travels towards the target point for each analysed grid point. The method has been tested on several locations worldwide. Results provide maps that inform about the relative importance of different oceanic areas to the local wave climate at any target point. This information cannot be inferred from local parameters and agrees with information from other approaches. The methodology may be useful in a number of applications, such as statistical downscaling, storm tracking and grid definition in numerical modelling.
Similar content being viewed by others
References
Alves J-HGM (2006) Numerical modeling of ocean swell contributions to the global wind–wave climate. Ocean Model 11(1–2):98–122. doi:10.1016/j.ocemod.2004.11.007
Ardhuin F, Chapron B, Collard F (2009) Observation of swell dissipation across oceans. Geophys Res Lett 36, L06607. doi:10.1029/2008GL037030
Ardhuin F, Rogers E, Babanin AV, Filipot J-F, Magne R, Roland A et al (2010) Semiempirical dissipation source functions for ocean waves. Part I: definition, calibration, and validation. J Phys Oceanogr 40(9):1917–1941. doi:10.1175/2010JPO4324.1
Barber NF, Ursell F (1948) The generation and propagation of ocean waves and swell. I. Wave periods and velocities. Philos Trans R Soc Lond 240A:527–560
Bromirski PD, Cayan DR, Flick RE (2005) J Geophys Res 110, C03005. doi:10.1029/2004JC002398
Camus P, Méndez FJ, Losada IJ, Menéndez M, Espejo A, Pérez A, Rueda A, Guanche Y (2014) A method for finding the optimal predictor indices for local wave climate conditions. This issue
Casas-Prat M, Wang XL, Sierra JP (2014) A physical-based statistical method for modeling ocean wave heights. Ocean Model 73:59–75
Chawla A, Tolman HL (2008) Obstruction grids for spectral wave models. Ocean Model 22(1–2):12–25. doi:10.1016/j.ocemod.2008.01.003
Collard F, Ardhuin F, Chapron B (2009) Monitoring and analysis of ocean swell fields from space: new methods for routine observations. J Geophys Res 114(C7), C07023. doi:10.1029/2008JC005215
Devaliere E-M, Hanson JL, Luettich R (2009) Spatial tracking of numerical wave model output using a spiral search algorithm. 2009 WRI World Congress on Computer Science and Information Engineering, 404–408. doi:10.1109/CSIE.2009.1021
Dore BD (1978) Some effects of the air-water interface on gravity waves. Geophys Astrophys Fluid Dyn 10:215–230
Dupuis H, Michel D, Sottolichio A (2006) Wave climate evolution in the Bay of Biscay over two decades. J Mar Syst 63(3–4):105–114. doi:10.1016/j.jmarsys.2006.05.009
Espejo A, Camus P, Losada IJ, Méndez FJ (2014) Spectral ocean wave climate variability based on atmospheric circulation patterns. J Phys Oceanogr. doi:10.1175/JPOD-13-0276.1
Gerling TW (1992) Partitioning sequences and arrays of directional ocean wave spectra into component wave systems. J Atmos Ocean Technol 9(4):444–458. doi:10.1175/1520-0426(1992)009<0444:PSAAOD>2.0.CO;2
Graham NE, Diaz HF (2001) Evidence for intensification of North Pacific winter cyclones since 1948. Bull Am Meteorol Soc 82:1869–1893
Hanson JL, Phillips OM (2001) Automated analysis of ocean surface directional wave spectra. J Atmos Ocean Technol 18:177–293
Hasselmann K et al (1973) Measurements of wind–wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project. Ergnzungsheft zur Deutschen Hydrographischen Zeitschrift Reihe 8(12):1–95, suppl. A
Hemer MA, Church JA, Hunter JR (2010) Variability and trends in the directional wave climate of the Southern Hemisphere. Int J Climatol 30:475–491
Holthuijsen LH (2007) Waves in oceanic and coastal waters. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, p 387
Hurrell JW, Kushnir Y, Ottersen G, Visbeck M (2003) An overview of the North Atlantic oscillation. Geophys Monogr-Am Geophys Union 134:1–36
Izaguirre C, Méndez FJ, Menéndez M, Luceño A, Losada IJ (2010) Extreme wave climate variability in southern Europe using satellite data. J Geophys Res, 115, C04009 J
Izaguirre C, Menéndez M, Camus P, Mendez FJ, Minguez R, Losada IJ (2012) Exploring the interannual variability of extreme wave climate in the Northeast Atlantic Ocean. Ocean Model 59–60:31–40
Le Cozannet G, Lecacheux S, Delvallee E, Desramaut N, Oliveros C, Pedreros R (2011) Teleconnection Pattern influence on sea–wave climate in the Bay of Biscay. J Clim 24(3):641–652. doi:10.1175/2010JCLI3589.1
Mitsuyasu H, Tasai F, Suhara T, Mizuno S, Ohkusu M, Honda T, Rikiishi K (1975) Observations of the directional spectrum of ocean waves using a cloverleaf buoy. J Phys Oceanogr 5(4):750–760
Munk W (1947) Tracking storms by forerunners of swell. J Meteorol 4(2):45–57
Munk WH, Miller GR, Snodgrass FE, Barber NF (1963) Directional recording of swell from distant storms. Philos Trans R Soc A Math Phys Eng Sci 255(1062):505–584. doi:10.1098/rsta.1963.0011
Rascle N, Ardhuin F (2012) A global wave parameter database for geophysical applications. Part 2: Model validation with improved source term parameterization. Ocean Model. doi:10.1016/j.ocemod.2012.12.001
Rascle N, Ardhuin F, Queffeulou P, Croizé-Fillon D (2008) A global wave parameter database for geophysical applications. Part 1: Wave–current–turbulence interaction parameters for the open ocean based on traditional parameterizations. Ocean Model 25(3–4):154–171. doi:10.1016/j.ocemod.2008.07.006
Reguero BG, Menéndez M, Méndez FJ, Mínguez R, Losada IJ (2012) A Global Ocean Wave (GOW) calibrated reanalysis from 1948 onwards. Coast Eng 65:38–55. doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.03.003
Saha S, Moorthi S, Pan H-L, Wu X, Wang J, Nadiga S et al (2010) The NCEP climate forecast system reanalysis. Bull Am Meteorol Soc 91(8):1015–1057. doi:10.1175/2010BAMS3001.1
Snodgrass FE, Groves GW, Hasselmann KF, Miller GR, Munk WH, Powers WH (1966) Propagation of ocean swell across the Pacific. Philos Trans R Soc A Math Phys Eng Sci 259(1103):431–497. doi:10.1098/rsta.1966.0022
Tolman HL (2003) Treatment of unresolved islands and ice in wind wave models. Ocean Model 5(3):219–231. doi:10.1016/S1463-5003(02)00040-9
Tolman HL (2008) A mosaic approach to wind wave modeling. Ocean Model 25(1–2):35–47. doi:10.1016/j.ocemod.2008.06.005
Tolman HL, Chalikov D (1996) Source terms in a third-generation wind-wave model. J. Phys. Oceanogr, 26, 2497–2518
Tracy B, Devaliere E-M, Nicolini T, Tolman HL, Hanson JL (2007) Wind sea and swell delineation for numerical wave modeling. In 10th international workshop on wave hindcasting and forecasting & coastal hazards symposium, JCOMM Tech. Rep. 41, WMO/TD-No. 1442. Paper P12
Wang XL, Zwiers FW, Swail VR (2004) North Atlantic Ocean wave climate change scenarios for the twenty-first century. J Clim 17:2368–2383
Woolf DK, Challenor PG, Cotton PD (2002) Variability and predictability of the North Atlantic wave climate. J Geophys Res C: Oceans 107(10):3145 doi:10,1029/2001JC001124
Young IR (1999) Seasonal variability of the global ocean wind and wave climate. Int J Climatol 19:931–950
Acknowledgments
The work was partly funded by the project iMar21 (CTM2010-15009) from the Spanish Government and the FP7 European project CoCoNet (287844). The authors would also like to acknowledge the valuable suggestions made by Paula Camus, Antonio Espejo and Antonio Tomas. We also thank the anonymous reviewers for their comments and suggestions.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Additional information
Responsible Editor: Oyvind Breivik
This article is part of the Topical Collection on the 13th International Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and Forecasting in Banff, Alberta, Canada October 27 - November 1, 2013
Rights and permissions
About this article
Cite this article
Pérez, J., Méndez, F.J., Menéndez, M. et al. ESTELA: a method for evaluating the source and travel time of the wave energy reaching a local area. Ocean Dynamics 64, 1181–1191 (2014). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-014-0740-7
Received:
Accepted:
Published:
Issue Date:
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-014-0740-7