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Ocean Dynamics

, Volume 64, Issue 5, pp 741–754 | Cite as

Wave energy fluxes and multidecadal shoreline changes in two coastal embayments in Denmark

  • Alina K. KabuthEmail author
  • Aart Kroon
Article
Part of the following topical collections:
  1. Topical Collection on the 7th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics in Arcachon, France 24-28 June 2013

Abstract

Spatial patterns of multidecadal shoreline changes in two microtidal, low-energetic embayments of southern Zealand, Denmark, were investigated by using the directional distribution of wave energy fluxes. The sites include a barrier island system attached to moraine bluffs, and a recurved spit adjacent to a cliff coast. The barrier island system is characterized by cross-shore translation and by an alignment of the barrier alongshore alternating directions of barrier-spit progradation in a bidirectional wave field. The recurved spit adjacent to the cliff coast experienced shoreline rotation through proximal erosion and distal lateral accretion in a unidirectional wave climate. The multidecadal shoreline changes were coupled to a slope-based morphological coastal classification. All erosive shores occurred within a narrow range of onshore and offshore coastal slopes. The alongshore variability of directional distributions of wave energy fluxes furthermore outlined potential sediment sources and sinks for the evolution of the barrier island system and for the evolution of the recurved spit.

Keywords

Barrier island Digital shoreline analysis system (DSAS) Digital elevation model (DEM) Paraglacial geomorphology Spit Wave rose 

Notes

Acknowledgments

This work was supported by the Danish Council for Strategic Research (DSF) under the project Danish Coasts and Climate Adaptation—flooding risk and coastal protection (COADAPT), project no. 09–066869. Hindcast wave data have been provided by the Water Forecast/DHI. Vagn Moser of the Department of Geosciences and Natural Resource Management, University of Copenhagen, is acknowledged for the grain size analysis.

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Copyright information

© Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 2014

Authors and Affiliations

  1. 1.Department of Geosciences and Natural Resource ManagementUniversity of CopenhagenCopenhagen KDenmark

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