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Effect of a speed ascent to the top of Europe on cognitive function in elite climbers

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Abstract

Purpose

The combined effects of acute hypoxia and exercise on cognition remain to be clarified. We investigated the effect of speed climbing to high altitude on reactivity and inhibitory control in elite climbers.

Methods

Eleven elite climbers performed a speed ascent of the Mont-Blanc (4810 m) and were evaluated pre- (at 1000 m) and immediately post-ascent (at 3835 m). In both conditions, a Simon task was done at rest (single-task session, ST) and during a low-intensity exercise (dual-task session, DT). Prefrontal cortex (PFC) oxygenation and middle cerebral artery velocity (MCAv) were monitored using near-infrared spectroscopy and transcranial Doppler, respectively, during the cognitive task. Self-perceived mental fatigue and difficulty to perform the cognitive tests were estimated using a visual analog scale. Heart rate and pulse oxygenation (SpO2) were monitored during the speed ascent.

Results

Elite climbers performed an intense (~ 50% of the time ≥ 80% of maximal heart rate) and prolonged (8h58 ± 6 min) exercise in hypoxia (minimal SpO2 at 4810 m: 78 ± 4%). Reaction time and accuracy during the Simon task were similar pre- and post-ascent (374 ± 28 ms vs. 385 ± 39 ms and 6 ± 4% vs. 5 ± 4%, respectively; p > 0.05), despite a reported higher mental fatigue and difficulty to perform the Simon task post-ascent (all p < 0.05). The magnitude of the Simon effect was unaltered (p > 0.05), suggesting a preserved cognitive control post-ascent. Pattern of PFC oxygenation and MCAv differed between pre- and post-ascent as well as between ST and DT conditions.

Conclusions

Cognitive control is not altered in elite climbers after a speed ascent to high-altitude despite substantial cerebral deoxygenation and fatigue perception.

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Data availability

The datasets generated during and/or analyzed during the current study are available from the corresponding author on reasonable request.

Code availability

Not applicable.

Abbreviations

AMS:

Acute mountain sickness

ANOVA:

Analysis of variance

BL:

Baseline

CaO2 :

Oxygen arterial content

CO:

Congruent

DT:

Dual task

ESM:

Electronic supplementary material

fNIRS:

Functional near-infrared spectroscopy

[Hb]:

Hemoglobin concentration

[HHb]:

Deoxyhemoglobin

[HbO2]:

Oxyhemoglobin

[HbTot]:

Total hemoglobin

HR:

Heart rate

IN:

Incongruent

MCA:

Middle cerebral artery

MCAv:

Middle cerebral artery mean velocity

MCA DO2 :

Cerebral oxygen delivery through the middle cerebral artery

PFC:

Prefrontal cortex

SpO2 :

Pulse oxygen saturation

ST:

Single task

TCD:

Transcranial Doppler

TSI:

Tissue oxygen saturation index

References

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Acknowledgements

We thank the elite climbers from the FFCAM and their coaches for their enthusiastic participation, as well as the staff of the Goûter hut for technical assistance, Julia Roger-Veyer (RN) for expert technical assistance and the Centre national de la recherche scientifique (CNRS) délégation Alpes for the provision of the Vallot Observatory. We thank Thibault Le Roux-Mallouf for his fNIRS technical help. Two elite climbers from the Groupe Excellence National Alpinisme (GEAN), who participated in the study, accidentally passed away during the first ascent of the West face of the Mingbo Eiger (6070 m) in Nepal, during collation of this manuscript. The authors express their sincere condolences to the climbers’ families and friends.

Funding

This study was supported by a grant from the FFCAM (Fédération Française des Clubs Alpins et de Montagne). However, the sponsors had no further involvement in any step of the project.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Contributions

BC, KD, JVB, SB, SD, PR, PB and SV designed the study. BC, JVB, SB, SD, PR, PB and SV acquired the data. BC, KD and TG performed the statistical analysis. BC, KD, JVB, SB and SV analyzed and interpreted the data. BC, KD, JVB and SV wrote the manuscript. SB, TG, SD, PR and PB revised it for important intellectual content. All authors gave final approval and agreed to be accountable for all aspects of work ensuring integrity and accuracy.

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Benoit Champigneulle.

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Conflict of interest

The authors have no conflicts of interest to declare that are relevant to the content of this article.

Ethics approval

This study was performed in line with the principles of the Declaration of Helsinki. Approval was granted by the French Ethics Committee CPP Ouest VI (approval reference number 2019-A01866-51).

Consent to participate

Written informed consent was obtained from all individual participants included in the study.

Consent to publication

The authors affirm that human research participants provided informed consent for publication.

Additional information

Communicated by Guido Ferretti.

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The original online version of this article was revised: Electronic supplementary material 2 was originally published with a little error in the footnote of the table S2.

Supplementary Information

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Supplementary file2 (DOCX 27 kb)

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Champigneulle, B., Davranche, K., Brugniaux, J.V. et al. Effect of a speed ascent to the top of Europe on cognitive function in elite climbers. Eur J Appl Physiol 122, 635–649 (2022). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00421-021-04855-6

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s00421-021-04855-6

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