Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance
- 828 Downloads
Rock-climbing performance is largely dependent on the endurance of the forearm flexors. Recently, it was reported that forearm flexor endurance in elite climbers is independent of the ability to regulate conduit artery (brachial) blood flow, suggesting that endurance is not primarily dependent on the ability of the brachial artery to deliver oxygen, but rather the ability of the muscle to perfuse and use oxygen, i.e., skeletal muscle oxidative capacity.
The aim of the study was to determine whether an index of oxidative capacity in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) predicts the best sport climbing red-point grade within the last 6 months. Participants consisted of 46 sport climbers with a range of abilities.
Using near-infrared spectroscopy, the oxidative capacity index of the FDP was assessed by calculating the half-time for tissue oxygen resaturation (O2HTR) following 3–5 min of ischemia.
Linear regression, adjusted for age, sex, BMI, and training experience, revealed a 1-s decrease in O2HTR was associated with an increase in red-point grade by 0.65 (95 % CI 0.35–0.94, Adj R 2 = 0.53).
Considering a grade of 0.4 separated the top four competitors in the 2015 International Federation Sport Climbing World Cup, this finding suggests that forearm flexor oxidative capacity index is an important determinant of rock-climbing performance.
KeywordsOxidative capacity Microvascular adaptation Near-infrared spectroscopy
- Baláš J et al (2014) The relationship between climbing ability and physiological responses to rock climbing. Sci World JGoogle Scholar
- Cordier P, France MM, Bolon P, Pailhous J (1993) Entropy, degrees of freedom, and free climbing: a thermodynamic study of a complex behavior based on trajectory analysis. Int J Sport Psychol 370–378Google Scholar
- Draper N et al (2011a) Reporting climbing grades and grouping categories for rock climbng. Isokinet Exerc Sci 19:273–280Google Scholar
- Draper N et al (2016) Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping. Int Rock Climb Res Assoc Pos Statement Sports Technol 1–7Google Scholar
- Gerbert W, Werner I (2000) Blood lactate response to competitive climbing. In: Messenger N, Brook D, Patterson W (eds) The science of climbing and mountaineering. Human Kinetics, Champaign, pp 25–26Google Scholar
- Jones AM, Vanhatalo A, Burnley M, Morton RH, Poole DC (2010) Critical power: implications for determination of VO2max and exercise tolerance. Med Sci Sports Exerc 42:1876–1890Google Scholar
- Poole DC, Jones AM (2012) Oxygen uptake kinetics. Compr PhysiolGoogle Scholar