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Factors affecting a climber’s ability to ascend Mont Blanc

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Abstract

The aim of the study was to determine the factors affecting a climber’s ability to ascend Mont Blanc using a number of variables collected at the Gouter Hut (3,817 m) before and after an attempted ascent on the Mont Blanc summit. Subjects (n=285) were tested at 3,817 m prior to their ascent of Mont Blanc. Maximum height ascended in the last 14 days was recorded. End tidal CO2, arterial oxygen saturation (SaO2), heart rate and respiratory rate were measured using a Capnograph (Nellcor Patrick NPB75). Acute mountain sickness (AMS) was assessed using the Lake Louise scoring system. Summit information is available for 216 subjects. None of the subjects who attained 4,000 m in the previous 14 days failed to reach the summit (P=0.04). Previous recent exposure to an altitude of 4,000 m resulted in faster ascent times to the summit than those who had not been above 3,000 m in the previous 14 days (4.02±0.6 vs. 4.46±0.8 h, P=0.009), higher SaO2 on arrival at the Gouter Hut on day 1 (88.6±5 vs. 86.3±6%, P=0.004) and lower AMS scores upon arrival at the Gouter Hut after the attempted ascent to the summit 2.5±1.8 versus 4.7±2.5 U (P=0.001), respectively. It is concluded that recent exposure to 4,000 m confers an advantage to those who wish to ascend a 4,800 m peak.

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Acknowledgements

The authors wish to acknowledge the support given by the University of Glasgow Chancellor’s Fund and John Robertson Bequest.

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Institute of Biomedical and Life Sciences, University of Glasgow, West Medical Building, Glasgow, G12 8QQ, UK

    G. Tsianos, I. Watt & S. Grant

  2. Senior Registrar, Accident and Emergency, Glasgow Royal Infirmary, Glasgow, UK

    L. Woolrich-Burt

  3. Department of Statistics, University of Glasgow, Glasgow, UK

    T. Aitchison

  4. Consultant in Respiratory Medicine, Western Infirmary, Glasgow, UK

    A. Peacock

  5. Consultant in Accident and Emergency, Monklands Hospital, Airdrie, UK

    M. Watt

  6. Centre for Cardiovascular Genetics, Rayne Institute, University College London, London, UK

    H. Montgomery

Authors
  1. G. Tsianos
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  2. L. Woolrich-Burt
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  3. T. Aitchison
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  4. A. Peacock
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  5. M. Watt
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  6. H. Montgomery
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  7. I. Watt
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  8. S. Grant
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Corresponding author

Correspondence to S. Grant.

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Tsianos, G., Woolrich-Burt, L., Aitchison, T. et al. Factors affecting a climber’s ability to ascend Mont Blanc. Eur J Appl Physiol 96, 32–36 (2006). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00421-005-0066-8

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s00421-005-0066-8

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