Skip to main content

Advertisement

SpringerLink
Log in

Cosmeceuticals for antiaging: a systematic review of safety and efficacy

  • REVIEW
  • Published:
Archives of Dermatological Research Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

Cosmeceuticals, the bridge between pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, contain biologically active ingredients that may improve the skin's overall appearance. As the market, accessibility, and popularity of cosmeceuticals increase, it is essential to understand the safety and efficacy of such products. This systematic review aims to examine published clinical studies involving the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging to provide evidence-based recommendations based on available efficacy and safety data. PubMed, Embase, and Cochrane were systematically searched on January 1, 2023 using PRISMA guidelines. Strength of evidence was graded using the Oxford Centre for Evidence-Based Medicine guidelines. Clinical recommendations were made based on the quality of the existing literature. A total of 153 articles regarding the use of cosmeceuticals for treatment of antiaging were identified. After screening of titles, abstracts, and full text, 32 studies involving 1236 patients met inclusion criteria, including 20 randomized controlled trials (RCTs) and 12 non-randomized open-label clinical trials for Vitamin C, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Tetrahydrojasmonic acid, Growth Factors, Methyl Estradiolpropanoate, Timosaponin A-III (TA-III), Protocatechuic acid, Grammatophyllum speciosum, and Jasmine rice panicle extract. Retinol and vitamin C for antiaging received a Grade A for recommendation. Methyl estradiolpropanoate, bakuchiol, tetrahydrojasmonic acid, and growth factors received a recommendation grade of C. The remaining ingredients were assigned an inconclusive grade of recommendation due to lack of evidence. Cosmeceuticals included in the review had favorable safety profiles with few significant adverse events. The review analyzes numerous different ingredients to provide an evidence-based approach to decision-making for consumers and physicians on the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging. Limitations to our review include a limited number of randomized controlled trials and a need for long-term data on each cosmeceutical's efficacy and safety. Future research is needed to establish the long-term effectiveness and safety of cosmeceuticals.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Log in via an institution

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Institutional subscriptions

Fig. 1

Similar content being viewed by others

Data availability

All data included in this review is available in published journals.

References

  1. Pandey A, Jatana GK, Sonthalia S. Cosmeceuticals. StatPearls. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing Copyright © 2022, StatPearls Publishing LLC., 2022.

  2. Khalil S, Bardawil T, Stephan C et al (2017) Retinoids: a journey from the molecular structures and mechanisms of action to clinical uses in dermatology and adverse effects. J Dermatolog Treat 28(8):684–696. https://doi.org/10.1080/09546634.2017.1309349

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  3. Tetali B, Fahs FM, Mehregan D (2020) Popular over-the-counter cosmeceutical ingredients and their clinical efficacy. Int J Dermatol 59(4):393–405. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijd.14718

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  4. Barros BS, Zaenglein AL (2017) The use of cosmeceuticals in acne: help or hoax? Am J Clin Dermatol 18(2):159–163. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-016-0249-6

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  5. Shin S, Cho SH, Park D, Jung E (2020) Anti-skin aging properties of protocatechuic acid in vitro and in vivo. J Cosmet Dermatol 19(4):977–984. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.13086

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  6. Bissett DL (2009) Common cosmeceuticals. Clin Dermatol 27(5):435–445. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.clindermatol.2009.05.006

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  7. Rivers JK (2008) The role of cosmeceuticals in antiaging therapy. Skin Therapy Lett 13(8):5–9

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  8. Traikovich SS (1999) Use of topical ascorbic acid and its effects on photodamaged skin topography. Arch Otolaryngol Head Neck Surg 125(10):1091–1098. https://doi.org/10.1001/archotol.125.10.1091

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  9. Telang PS (2013) Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J 4(2):143–146. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.110593

    Article  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  10. Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF (2002) Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatol Surg 28(3):231–236. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1524-4725.2002.01129.x

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  11. Humbert PG, Haftek M, Creidi P et al (2003) Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo. Exp Dermatol 12(3):237–244. https://doi.org/10.1034/j.1600-0625.2003.00008.x

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  12. Jagdeo J, Kurtti A, Hernandez S, Akers N, Peterson S (2021) Novel Vitamin C and E and green tea polyphenols combination serum improves photoaged facial skin. J Drugs Dermatol 20(9):996–1003. https://doi.org/10.36849/jdd.5818

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  13. Keen MA, Hassan I (2016) Vitamin E in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J 7(4):311–315. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.185494

    Article  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  14. Ghazali NI, Mohd Rais RZ, Makpol S, Chin KY, Yap WN, Goon JA (2022) Effects of tocotrienol on aging skin: a systematic review. Front Pharmacol 13:1006198. https://doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2022.1006198

    Article  CAS  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  15. Yokota M, Yahagi S (2022) Evaluation of the anti-wrinkle effect of a lipophilic pro-vitamin C derivative, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid. J Cosmet Dermatol 21(8):3503–3514. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.14604

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  16. Choi S, Han J, Kim JH et al (2020) Advances in dermatology using DNA aptamer “Aptamin C” innovation: oxidative stress prevention and effect maximization of vitamin C through antioxidation. J Cosmet Dermatol 19(4):970–976. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.13081

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  17. Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ (2017) Topical vitamin C and the skin: mechanisms of action and clinical applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol 10(7):14–17

    PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  18. Pinnell SR, Yang H, Omar M et al (2001) Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies. Dermatol Surg 27(2):137–142. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1524-4725.2001.00264.x

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  19. Zasada M, Budzisz E (2019) Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy Dermatol Alergol 36(4):392–397. https://doi.org/10.5114/ada.2019.87443

    Article  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  20. Bellemère G, Stamatas GN, Bruère V, Bertin C, Issachar N, Oddos T (2009) Antiaging action of retinol: from molecular to clinical. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 22(4):200–209. https://doi.org/10.1159/000231525

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  21. Gold MH, Kircik LH, Bucay VW, Kiripolsky MG, Biron JA (2013) Treatment of facial photodamage using a novel retinol formulation. J Drugs Dermatol 12(5):533–540

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  22. Kikuchi K, Suetake T, Kumasaka N, Tagami H (2009) Improvement of photoaged facial skin in middle-aged Japanese females by topical retinol (vitamin A alcohol): a vehicle-controlled, double-blind study. J Dermatolog Treat 20(5):276–281. https://doi.org/10.1080/09546630902973987

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  23. Randhawa M, Rossetti D, Leyden JJ et al (2015) One-year topical stabilized retinol treatment improves photodamaged skin in a double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial. J Drugs Dermatol 14(3):271–280

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  24. Tucker-Samaras S, Zedayko T, Cole C, Miller D, Wallo W, Leyden JJ (2009) A stabilized 0.1% retinol facial moisturizer improves the appearance of photodamaged skin in an eight-week, double-blind, vehicle-controlled study. J Drugs Dermatol 8(10):932–936

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  25. Kim J, Kim J, Jongudomsombat T et al (2021) The efficacy and safety of multilamellar vesicle containing retinaldehyde: A double-blinded, randomized, split-face controlled study. J Cosmet Dermatol 20(9):2874–2879. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.13993

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  26. Kim KH, Lim DG, Lim JY et al (2015) Chemical stability and in vitro and clinical efficacy of a novel hybrid retinoid derivative, bis-retinamido methylpentane. Int J Pharm 495(1):93–105. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2015.08.081[publishedOnlineFirst:20150904]

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  27. Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K (2014) Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. Int J Cosmet Sci 36(3):221–230. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12117

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  28. Puyana C, Chandan N, Tsoukas M (2022) Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: systematic review of the literature. J Cosmet Dermatol. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.15420

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  29. Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR et al (2019) Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol 180(2):289–296. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16918

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  30. Draelos ZD, Gunt H, Zeichner J, Levy S (2020) Clinical evaluation of a nature-based bakuchiol anti-aging moisturizer for sensitive skin. J Drugs Dermatol 19(12):1181–1183. https://doi.org/10.36849/jdd.2020.5522

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  31. Goldberg DJ, Mraz-Robinson D, Granger C (2020) Efficacy and safety of a 3-in-1 antiaging night facial serum containing melatonin, bakuchiol, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate through clinical and histological analysis. J Cosmet Dermatol 19(4):884–890. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.13329

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  32. Bacqueville D, Maret A, Noizet M et al (2020) Efficacy of a dermocosmetic serum combining bakuchiol and Vanilla tahitensis extract to prevent skin photoaging in vitro and to improve clinical outcomes for naturally aged skin. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol 13:359–370. https://doi.org/10.2147/ccid.S235880

    Article  CAS  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  33. Herndon JH Jr, Jiang LI, Kononov T, Fox T (2016) An open label clinical trial to evaluate the efficacy and tolerance of a retinol and vitamin c facial regimen in women with mild-to-moderate hyperpigmentation and photodamaged facial skin. J Drugs Dermatol 15(4):476–482

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  34. Alexiades M (2016) Clinical assessment of a novel jasmonate cosmeceutical, LR2412-Cx, for the treatment of skin aging. J Drugs Dermatol 15(2):209–215

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  35. Tran C, Michelet JF, Simonetti L et al (2014) In vitro and in vivo studies with tetra-hydro-jasmonic acid (LR2412) reveal its potential to correct signs of skin ageing. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 28(4):415–423. https://doi.org/10.1111/jdv.12113[publishedOnlineFirst:20130523]

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  36. Bouloc A, Vergnanini AL, Issa MC (2015) A double-blind randomized study comparing the association of Retinol and LR2412 with tretinoin 0.025% in photoaged skin. J Cosmet Dermatol 14(1):40–46. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12131

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  37. Barone F, Bashey S, Woodin FW Jr (2019) Clinical evidence of dermal and epidermal restructuring from a biologically active growth factor serum for skin rejuvenation. J Drugs Dermatol 18(3):290–295

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  38. Farris P, Draelos ZD, Felipe de Oliveira Stehling L (2021) Novel facial treatment regimen improves aging skin appearance. J Drugs Dermatol 20(3):274–278. https://doi.org/10.36849/jdd.5791

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  39. Kwon SB, An S, Kim MJ et al (2017) Phytosphingosine-1-phosphate and epidermal growth factor synergistically restore extracellular matrix in human dermal fibroblasts in vitro and in vivo. Int J Mol Med 39(3):741–748. https://doi.org/10.3892/ijmm.2017.2866

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  40. Draelos ZD (2016) The effect of a combination of recombinant EGF cosmetic serum and a crosslinked hyaluronic acid serum as compared to a fibroblast-conditioned media serum on the appearance of aging skin. J Drugs Dermatol 15(6):738–741

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  41. Rzepecki AK, Murase JE, Juran R, Fabi SG, McLellan BN (2019) Estrogen-deficient skin: the role of topical therapy. Int J Womens Dermatol 5(2):85–90. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijwd.2019.01.001

    Article  PubMed  PubMed Central  Google Scholar 

  42. Lephart ED, Naftolin F (2021) Menopause and the skin: old favorites and new innovations in cosmeceuticals for estrogen-deficient skin. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb) 11(1):53–69. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13555-020-00468-7

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  43. Draelos ZD (2018) A double-blind randomized pilot study evaluating the safety and efficacy of topical MEP in the facial appearance improvement of estrogen deficient females. J Drugs Dermatol 17(11):1186–1189

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  44. Cohen JL (2019) Evaluation of efficacy of a skin care regimen containing methyl estradiolpropanoate (MEP) for treating estrogen deficient skin. J Drugs Dermatol 18(12):1226–1230

    CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  45. Cohen J, Downie J (2022) An open-label study evaluating the periorbital skin rejuvenation efficacy of a cosmeceutical containing methyl estradiolpropanoate (MEP) in women with estrogen deficient skin (EDS). J Drugs Dermatol 21(11):1185–1190. https://doi.org/10.36849/jdd.7279

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  46. Im AR, Seo YK, Cho SH, Hee OK, Kim KM, Chae S (2020) Clinical evaluation of the safety and efficacy of a timosaponin A-III-based antiwrinkle agent against skin aging. J Cosmet Dermatol 19(2):423–436. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.13035

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  47. Chowjarean V, Phiboonchaiyanan PP, Harikarnpakdee S, Tengamnuay P (2019) A natural skin anti-ageing serum containing pseudobulb ethanolic extract of Grammatophyllum speciosum: a randomized double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. Int J Cosmet Sci 41(6):548–557. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12571

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  48. Kanlayavattanakul M, Lourith N, Chaikul P (2016) Jasmine rice panicle: a safe and efficient natural ingredient for skin aging treatments. J Ethnopharmacol 193:607–616. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2016.10.013

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  49. Ochiai Y, Kaburagi S, Obayashi K et al (2006) A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative properties. J Dermatol Sci 44(1):37–44. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdermsci.2006.07.001

    Article  CAS  PubMed  Google Scholar 

Download references

Funding

None.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. New York University Grossman Long Island School of Medicine, Mineola, NY, USA

    Megan Lau

  2. Department of Dermatology, State University of New York, Downstate Health Sciences University, Brooklyn, NY, USA

    Jessica Mineroff Gollogly, Jennifer Y. Wang & Jared Jagdeo

  3. Dermatology Service, Veterans Affairs New York Harbor Healthcare System - Brooklyn Campus, Brooklyn, NY, USA

    Jessica Mineroff Gollogly & Jared Jagdeo

  4. Department of Dermatology, SUNY Downstate Medical Center, 450 Clarkson Avenue, 8th Floor, Brooklyn, NY, 11203, USA

    Jared Jagdeo

Authors
  1. Megan Lau
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  2. Jessica Mineroff Gollogly
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  3. Jennifer Y. Wang
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  4. Jared Jagdeo
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Contributions

M.L. wrote the main manuscript and conducted literature search; J.M. and J.Y.W. edited the manuscript; J.J. was the corresponding author, who oversaw the project, gave direction, and edited the manuscript. All authors reviewed the manuscript.

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Jared Jagdeo.

Ethics declarations

Conflict of interest

The authors declare no competing interest.

Additional information

Publisher's Note

Springer Nature remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations.

Rights and permissions

Springer Nature or its licensor (e.g. a society or other partner) holds exclusive rights to this article under a publishing agreement with the author(s) or other rightsholder(s); author self-archiving of the accepted manuscript version of this article is solely governed by the terms of such publishing agreement and applicable law.

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this article

Lau, M., Mineroff Gollogly, J., Wang, J.Y. et al. Cosmeceuticals for antiaging: a systematic review of safety and efficacy. Arch Dermatol Res 316, 173 (2024). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00403-024-02908-2

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Revised:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s00403-024-02908-2

Keywords

Search

Navigation