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Dermatokosmetische Wirkstoffe

Active ingredients in dermatocosmetics

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Zusammenfassung

Moderne Dermatokosmetika zeigen als typische Merkmale neben einer differenzierten Galenik vor allem Wirkstoffe zur Beeinflussung von Hautalterung. Die meisten dieser Wirkstoffe tragen derzeit vor allem der wissenschaftlichen Erkenntnis Rechnung, dass ein verändertes Gleichgewicht von Kollagensynthese und -abbau als maßgeblicher Faktor für Hautalterung angesehen wird. Als wichtige Ursachen für die Veränderungen des Kollagenstoffwechsels werden Umwelteinflüsse, die oxidativen Stress hervorrufen, sowie bei Frauen der Rückgang der Östrogenspiegel in der Menopause angesehen. Unter den eingesetzten Wirkstoffen zielen die meisten daher auf die Reduktion von oxidativem Stress oder die direkte Beeinflussung des Bindegewebsstoffwechsels ab. Die Wirksamkeit der einzelnen Stoffe ist bisher unterschiedlich intensiv evaluiert. Grundsätzlich sind wissenschaftlich evaluierte dermatokosmetische Wirkstoffe gegen Hautalterung als wichtige Ergänzung zu UV-Schutz und hauttypgerechter Hautpflege zu sehen.

Abstract

Modern skin care- and anti-aging preparations feature both advanced formulation concepts and active ingredients against skin aging. Most of these ingredients are based on the recent findings that in aging the balance between collagen synthesis and collagen fragmentation is altered. Environmental factors inducing oxidative stress as well as decreased estrogen levels during menopause are important factors leading to these changes in connective tissue metabolism. Thus the major targets of anti-aging ingredients are oxidative stress and collagen metabolism. Evaluation of the effects of most of these ingredients has not been completed so far. In general scientifically evaluated anti-aging preparations can viewed as supplementing effective sunscreens and maximized skin care.

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Der korrespondierende Autor versichert, dass keine Verbindungen mit einer Firma, deren Produkt in dem Artikel genannt ist, oder einer Firma, die ein Konkurrenzprodukt vertreibt, bestehen.

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  1. Studiengang Kosmetik und Körperpflege, Fachbereich Chemie, Universität Hamburg, Hamburg

    T. Reuther & M. Kerscher

  2. Studiengang Kosmetik und Körperpflege, Fachbereich Chemie, Universität Hamburg, Martin-Luther-King Platz 6, 20146 , Hamburg

    T. Reuther

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  1. T. Reuther
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  2. M. Kerscher
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Correspondence to T. Reuther.

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Reuther, T., Kerscher, M. Dermatokosmetische Wirkstoffe. Hautarzt 55, 630–636 (2004). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00105-004-0758-8

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s00105-004-0758-8

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