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This book is a collection of 14 papers by the participants of the symposium held at Cornell University on September 2006 in celebration of Professor Phillip L.-F. Liu’s life jubilee. Bringing together leading researchers, this volume surveys recent developments in the fields of coastal engineering with particular emphasis on the areas pioneered by Prof. Liu. Topics considered include nonlinear wave theory, tsunamis, wave-structure interaction, bottom turbulence, and sediment transport processes.
The book started with some reflections on the generalised Lagrangian mean (GLM) method by M.W. Dingemans, who discussed the use and applicability of this approach to various water wave problems. The GLM formulation of Andrews and McIntyre (see eq. Mcintyre M. E.: Pure Appl. Geoph., 1, 1980, 152–176), gives exact equations for wave-flow interactions in three dimensions. Several known and less known results of GLM theory, including the Stokes drift, Langmuir-type circulations and the extended...