Abstract
Shorelines are seldom straight or smooth, but instead, often contain rhythmical seaward projections of sediment in series with fairly uniform spacing ranging from 10 cm to 1,500 m. These cusps are formed resulting from interaction between nearshore hydrodynamics, sediment dynamics and beach morphology in the surf zone. An accurate prediction of wave-current interaction is very important for coastal zone management, because wave-induced currents and tidal currents have main influence on horizontal mixing processes of suspended sand and buoyant pollutants. In this paper, details of an adaptive quadtree grid based numerical model of the coupled wave climate and depth-averaged current field are described. This model accounts for hydrodynamics in the surf-zone such as wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave-current interaction, mixing process and bottom friction effects. The model has been validated for the nearshore currents at a three-cusp beach installed in the U.K. Coastal Research Facility.
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The manuscript for this paper was submitted for review on November 8, 2000.
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Park, KY. Numerical model of nearshore flow on quadtree grids. KSCE J Civ Eng 5, 199–205 (2001). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02829075
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02829075