Geo-Marine Letters

, Volume 8, Issue 1, pp 35–39 | Cite as

Measurement of shallow water wave direction for longshore sediment transport

  • J. Hardisty


Formulae which predict the longshore transport of sand under the action of oblique waves are shown to be very sensitive to the angle of incidence of the waves. A simple, computerized wave recorder and pattern-matching technique is described which measures the angle of incidence by determining the phase difference between signals from a pair of closely spaced sensors. Data from field trials suggest that a resolution of better than 4° is possible with this system, but problems of mixed frequency waves remain in both the longshore transport functions and the field equipment.


Shallow Water Phase Difference Field Trial Sediment Transport Frequency Wave 
These keywords were added by machine and not by the authors. This process is experimental and the keywords may be updated as the learning algorithm improves.


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Copyright information

© Springer-Verlag New York Inc 1988

Authors and Affiliations

  • J. Hardisty
    • 1
  1. 1.Marine Mophodynamics Unit, Department of GeographyRoyal Holloway and Bedford New College, London UniversityEghamEngland

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