Abstract
Nonlinear properties of wind waves in a wind-wave tunnel are investigated by measuring the probability density distribution of surface elevation. The surface elevation distribution of raw records are found to have a positive skewness (K 3=0.21 to 0.43) and a negative kurtosis (K 4=−0.74 to −0.41) with magnitude depending of fetch and wind speed. The values of skewness are in qualitative agreement with a prediction of the weak interaction theory for a random wave field incorporating the effects of second harmonics (Tayfun, 1980), but the values of kurtosis are different in sign from the prediction.
To examine the nonlinear properties of energy containing components, higher harmonic components are excluded from the wave records by using a kind of a band-pass filter. The surface elevation distributions of the filtered waves show a sharp decrease in skewness\((\bar K_3 ^\prime = 0)\), but the distributions remain highly non-Gaussian with a large negative kurtosis almost independent of the fetch and wind speed\((\bar K_4 ^\prime = - 0.66)\). It is concluded that the negative kurtosis is due to the non-random character of the phase and amplitude among the energy containing components, and that nonlinear interactions occur amongst the energy containing frequencies.
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Hatori, M. Nonlinear properties of laboratory wind waves at energy containing frequencies. Journal of the Oceanographical Society of Japan 40, 1–11 (1984). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02071203
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02071203