Abstract
Physiological correlations with impaired or umimpaired performance at high altitude were sought among 24 blood and urine parameters measured in 50 mountaineers and 21 observers before (preclimb) and after (postclimb) expeditions on Mt. McKinley. Values and per cent changes were compared for five degrees of impairment at high altitude. Average preclimb values were all near established normal levels and no correlations with subsequent involvement at high altitude were found. Postclimb samples contained more Hb, PCV, urea, LDH, and HBD and less bilirubin (P < 0.05). But no association was found between degrees of altitude impairment and preclimb/postclimb changes in any of the 24 blood and urine parameters. Additional results from samples collected at 4300 m showed "weaker" mountaineers excreted 1/4 as much Na in urine and had 50% more serum FFA concentration than stronger mountaineers.
Zusammenfassung
Bei 50 Bergsteigern und 21 Beobachtern wurden vor und nach einer Expedition zum Mt. McKinley (Alaska) für 24 Parameter im Blut und Harn die Beziehungen zur Abschwächung der Leistung in grosser Höhe untersucht. Zum Vergleich wurden 5 Grade von unbeeinflusster bis schwerer Schädigung in der Höhe verwendet. Die mittleren Werte vor dem Aufstieg lagen alle im Bereich der Normbreite. Beziehungen zu nachfolgenden Komplikationen in der Höhe bestanden nicht. Nach dem Aufstieg waren Hgb, Hämatokrit, Harnstoff, LDH, Hydroxybutyric Dehydrogenase erhöht und Bilirubin erniedrigt (P < 0, 05). Es liess sich jedoch für keinen Parameter eine Beziehung zwischen dem Ausmass der Höhenschädigung und den Veränderungen vor und nach dem Aufstieg nachweisen. Zusätzliche Ergebnisse von Proben, die in 4300 m Höhe gesammelt wurden, ergaben, dass schwache Bergsteiger ein Viertel soviel Na im Harn ausschieden und 50% mehr freie Fettsäuren im Blut aufwiesen als starke Bergsteiger.
Resume
On a mesuré 24 paramètre du sang et de l'urine de 50 alpinistes et 21 observateurs avant et après l'ascension du Mont McKinley (Canada). On a établi ensuite la corrélation physiologique existant entre ces paramètres et une diminution éventuelle des performances. Les valeurs absolues et le taux de modification ont été comparés à 5 degrés de diminution des capacités physiques à haute altitude. Les valeurs moyennes des analyses faites avant l'ascension ont toutes été voisines du niveau normal et on n'a pas constaté de corrélation avec les performances individuelles subséquentes. Les échantillons recueillis après l'ascension contenaient davantage de Hb, PCV, urée, LDH, et HBD, mais moins de bilirubine (P < 0, 05). On n'a cependant trouvé aucune relation entre le degré de diminution des performances et les modifications d'aucun des 24 paramètres retenus du sang ou de l'urine avant et après l'ascension. Des échantillons prélevés à 4300 m d'altitude ont montré que les alpinistes peu aguerris ne sécrétaient que le 1/4 du Na par l'urine, mais avaient 50% d'acides gras libres de plus dans le sang que les montagnards les plus résistants.
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Work supported by Themis Contract No DADA 17-68-C-8018
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Galster, W.A., Morrison, P.R. Effects of high altitude exposure on components of blood and urine in mountaineers. Int J Biometeorol 18, 23–32 (1974). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF01450662
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/BF01450662