Abstract
An approximate analytical solution describing the shoaling of modulated wave-trains is presented. This solution provides new information about the wave field evolution as well as about the wave-induced mean current and set down.
Zusammenfassung
Eine angenäherte analytische Lösung wird gegeben, die das Brechen von modulierten Wellenzügen beschreibt. Die Lösung gibt neue Informationen über die Entwicklung des Wellenfeldes wie auch über die mittlere Strömung und mittlere Höhenänderung, die von den Wellen induziert wird.
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Iusim, R., Stiassnie, M. Shoaling of nonlinear wave-groups on water of slowly varying depth. Z. angew. Math. Phys. 36, 680–698 (1985). https://doi.org/10.1007/BF00960380
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/BF00960380