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China Ocean Engineering

, Volume 33, Issue 4, pp 412–423 | Cite as

Qualitative Description of Swashing Motion States on Mild Beach Slope

  • Jing Yin
  • Zhi-li ZouEmail author
  • Ke-zhao Fang
  • Yan-li Liu
Article

Abstract

The swashing motion on mild beach slope is dominated by the motion of low frequency waves (LFWs). Companying such a motion, there are two types of swashing motion states, occurrence or no occurrence of LFW’s collision. The present study distinguishes the two states qualitatively by relating it to the number of generated LFWs for the case of two incident wave groups. A simplified swashing index is established theoretically for this purpose. A series of related experiments were performed to observe the generated out-going LFWs on different mild slope from 1:20 to 1:160 and to determine the critical value of the swashing index. Numerical simulations based on higher order Boussinesq equations are also performed to help the recognition of the LFWs generated in the experiment.

Key words

swashing surf beat braking wave low frequency wave wave groups 

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Copyright information

© Chinese Ocean Engineering Society and Springer-Verlag GmbH Germany, part of Springer Nature 2019

Authors and Affiliations

  • Jing Yin
    • 1
    • 2
  • Zhi-li Zou
    • 1
    Email author
  • Ke-zhao Fang
    • 1
  • Yan-li Liu
    • 1
  1. 1.State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore EngineeringDalian University of TechnologyDalianChina
  2. 2.Key Laboratory of Sea-Area Management TechnologyNational Marine Environmental Monitoring CenterDalianChina

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