China Ocean Engineering

, Volume 33, Issue 4, pp 412–423 | Cite as

Qualitative Description of Swashing Motion States on Mild Beach Slope

  • Jing Yin
  • Zhi-li ZouEmail author
  • Ke-zhao Fang
  • Yan-li Liu


The swashing motion on mild beach slope is dominated by the motion of low frequency waves (LFWs). Companying such a motion, there are two types of swashing motion states, occurrence or no occurrence of LFW’s collision. The present study distinguishes the two states qualitatively by relating it to the number of generated LFWs for the case of two incident wave groups. A simplified swashing index is established theoretically for this purpose. A series of related experiments were performed to observe the generated out-going LFWs on different mild slope from 1:20 to 1:160 and to determine the critical value of the swashing index. Numerical simulations based on higher order Boussinesq equations are also performed to help the recognition of the LFWs generated in the experiment.

Key words

swashing surf beat braking wave low frequency wave wave groups 


Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.


  1. Baldock, T.E., Holmes, P. and Horn, D.P., 1997. Low frequency swash motion induced by wave grouping, Coastal Engineering, 32(2–3), 197–222.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  2. Battjes, J.A., Bakkenes, H.J., Janssen, T.T. and Van Dongeren, A.R., 2004. Shoaling of subharmonic gravity waves, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 109(C2), C02009.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  3. Bowen, A.J., 1969. The generation of longshore currents on a plane beach, Journal of Marine Research, 27(2), 206–215.Google Scholar
  4. Bowen, A.J., Inman, D.L. and Simmons, V.P., 1968. Wave ‘set-down’ and set-up, Journal of Geophysical Research, 73(8), 2569–2577.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  5. Erikson, L., Larson, M. and Hanson, H., 2005. Prediction of swash motion and run-up including the effects of swash interaction, Coastal Engineering, 52(3), 285–302.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  6. Ho, D.V., Meyer, R.E. and Shen, M.C., 1963. Long surf, Journal of Marine Research, 21(3), 219–230.Google Scholar
  7. Holland, K.T. and Puleo, J.A., 2001. Variable swash motions associated with foreshore profile change, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 106(C3), 4613–4623.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  8. Janssen, T.T., Battjes, J.A. and Van Dongeren, A.R., 2003. Long waves induced by short-wave groups over a sloping bottom, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 108(C8), 3252.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  9. Le Méhauté, B. and Koh, R.C.Y., 1967. On the breaking of waves arriving at an angle to the shore, Journal of Hydraulic Research, 5(1), 67–88.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  10. Mase, H. and Iwagaki, Y., 1985. Run-up of random wave on gentle slopes, Proceedings of the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Houston, Texas, 1, pp. 593–609.Google Scholar
  11. Schäffer, H.A., 1993. Infragravity waves induced by short-wave groups, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 247, 551–588.CrossRefzbMATHGoogle Scholar
  12. Shen, M.C. and Meyer, R.E., 1963. Climb of a bore on a beach, Part 3 Run-up, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 16(1), 113–125.MathSciNetCrossRefGoogle Scholar
  13. Svendsen, I.A. and Madsen, P.A., 1984. A turbulent bore on a beach, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 148, 73–96.CrossRefzbMATHGoogle Scholar
  14. Zou, Z.L. and Fang, K.Z., 2008. Alternative forms of the higher-order Boussinesq equations: Derivations and validations, Coastal Engineering, 55(6), 506–521.CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Copyright information

© Chinese Ocean Engineering Society and Springer-Verlag GmbH Germany, part of Springer Nature 2019

Authors and Affiliations

  • Jing Yin
    • 1
    • 2
  • Zhi-li Zou
    • 1
    Email author
  • Ke-zhao Fang
    • 1
  • Yan-li Liu
    • 1
  1. 1.State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore EngineeringDalian University of TechnologyDalianChina
  2. 2.Key Laboratory of Sea-Area Management TechnologyNational Marine Environmental Monitoring CenterDalianChina

Personalised recommendations