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Pharmaceutical Research

, Volume 28, Issue 4, pp 858–872 | Cite as

Ingredients Tracking of Cosmetic Formulations in the Skin: A Confocal Raman Microscopy Investigation

  • Matthias Förster
  • Marie-Alexandrine BolzingerEmail author
  • Delphine Ach
  • Gilles Montagnac
  • Stephanie Briançon
Research Paper

ABSTRACT

Purpose

Confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM) was used to follow the absorption of retinol into the skin and to track the absorption of ingredients in topically applied formulations.

Method

Three surfactants, PEG20C12, PEG20C18:1 (hydrophilic) and PEG6C18:1 (lipophilic), were used in preparing three o/w emulsions and three surfactant solutions all containing retinol. Quantitative retinol penetration studies for 24 h were carried out using Franz diffusion cells. CRM was used to follow the skin penetration of retinol, oil and water and also to study a possible modification of the lipid skin barrier in the stratum corneum (SC) using the ratio of I2880/I2850.

Results

The oily surfactant solution containing PEG6C18:1 and dodecane showed the highest retinol penetration rate. This appears to be related both to the short polar head group of the surfactant and to the effect of dodecane on skin lipids. All the surfactant solutions showed a higher penetration rate compared with the corresponding emulsions. CRM measurements showed that the ratios of I2880/I2850 were significantly modified using surfactant solutions.

Conclusions

Penetration behavior appeared to be dependent on the surfactant used in the formulation. CRM associated to the Franz cell method gives new insights on permeation of drug related to vehicle or ingredients.

KEY WORD

confocal Raman microspectroscopy delivery formulation ingredient tracking retinol skin 

ABBREVIATIONS

aq

aqueous

BHT

butylhydroxytoluene

Brij®98

polyoxyethylene (20) oleyl ether

CRM

confocal Raman microscopy

D

dermis

E

epidermis

FWHM

full width half maximum

HLB

hydrophilic-lipophilic balance parameter

HPLC

high performance liquid chromatography

Myritol®318

caprylic/capric triglyceride

PEG

polyethyleneglycol

POE

polyoxyethylene

R I2880/I2850

ratio of the peak intensities at 2880 and 2850 cm−1

Rpm

revolutions per minute

SC

stratum corneum

SD

standard deviation

SEM

standard error of the mean

Notes

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

We thank Gattefossé SAS for their financial support for this work and Robin Hillman for insightful discussion and editing of the manuscript.

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Copyright information

© Springer Science+Business Media, LLC 2011

Authors and Affiliations

  • Matthias Förster
    • 1
    • 2
  • Marie-Alexandrine Bolzinger
    • 2
    • 4
    Email author
  • Delphine Ach
    • 2
  • Gilles Montagnac
    • 3
  • Stephanie Briançon
    • 2
  1. 1.Gattefossé SASSt PriestFrance
  2. 2.Université de Lyon, 69008 Lyon, France; Université Lyon I, Institut des Sciences Pharmaceutiques et Biologiques, Laboratoire de Dermopharmacie et Cosmétologie, 69008 LyonFrance: Laboratoire d’Automatique et de Génie des procédés (LAGEP) UMR CNRS 5007VilleurbanneFrance
  3. 3.Université de Lyon, 69007 Lyon France; Université Lyon ILaboratoire des Sciences de la Terre UMR 5570 CNRSENS de LyonFrance
  4. 4.LAGEPVilleurbanne CedexFrance

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