Advertisement

Agriculture and Human Values

, Volume 28, Issue 1, pp 67–79 | Cite as

Kosher in New York City, halal in Aquitaine: challenging the relationship between neoliberalism and food auditing

  • Hugh Campbell
  • Anne Murcott
  • Angela MacKenzie
Article

Abstract

Previous work in the agri-food tradition has framed food auditing as a novelty characteristic of a shift to neoliberal governance in agri-food systems and has tackled the analysis of food “quality” in the same light. This article argues that agri-food scholars’ recent interest in the contested qualities of food needs to be situated alongside a much longer history of contested cultural attributions of trust in food relations. It builds on an earlier discussion suggesting that, although neoliberalism has undoubtedly opened up new spaces for audit activity, older political and social dynamics operating around food audits were established long before the neoliberal historical moment. Breaking new ground (as far as is known) by looking further back than the early history of the organic social movement, it examines intersections of religious food auditing, migrant food culture, and commercial dynamics in food systems. Based on secondary sources, two contrasting case studies are presented to illustrate the flux and complexity for: New World Diaspora migrants to New York City of assuring food was kosher; and more recent Maghrebi migrants to southwest France of assuring food is halal. The article concludes by noting that the neoliberal moment stands not as the unique progenitor of a new style of food authority, but rather as the latest response to a wider rupture in the historically contingent arbitration of new forms of trust in food.

Keywords

Agri-food systems Food audit Halal Kosher Quality Governance Trust 

Notes

Acknowledgments

The authors would like to thank Richard Le Heron for his dialogue on a precursor paper to this article as well as the comments of two anonymous reviewers.

References

  1. Beckford, J. 2005. Muslims in the prisons of Britain and France. Journal of Contemporary European Studies 13(3): 287–297.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  2. Bergeaud, F. 1999. L’institutionnalisation de l’Islam à Bordeaux: enjeux, sociaux, politiques et économiques de l’implantation du culte Musulman dans un espace urbain. PhD dissertation. University of Bordeaux, France.Google Scholar
  3. Bergeaud-Blackler, F. 2004. Social definitions of halal quality. In Qualities of food, ed. M. Harvey, A. McMeekin, and A. Warde, 94–107. Manchester: Manchester University Press.Google Scholar
  4. Bergeaud-Blackler, F. 2007. New challenges for Islamic ritual slaughter: A European perspective. Journal of Ethnic and Migration Studies 33(6): 965–980.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  5. Blech, Z. 2004. Kosher food production. Iowa: Blackwell.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  6. Bonne, K., I. Vermeir, F. Bergeaud-Blackler, and W. Verbeke. 2007. Determinants of halal meat consumption in France. British Food Journal 109(5): 367–386.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  7. Bonne, K., and W. Verbeke. 2008a. Muslim consumer trust in halal meat status and control in Belgium. Meat Science 79(1): 113–123.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  8. Bonne, K., and W. Verbeke. 2008b. Religious values informing halal meat production and the control and delivery of halal credence quality. Agriculture and Human Values 25: 35–47.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  9. Busch, L., and C. Bain. 2004. New! Improved? The transformation of the global agrifood system. Rural Sociology 69(3): 321–346.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  10. Campbell, H. 2005. The rise and rise of EurepGAP: The European (re)invention of colonial food relations? International Journal of Sociology of Agriculture and Food 13(2): 6–19.Google Scholar
  11. Campbell, H., and R. Le Heron. 2007. Supermarkets, producers, and audit technologies: The constitutive micro-politics of food, legitimacy, and governance. In Supermarkets and agri-food supply chains: Transformations in the production and consumption of foods, ed. G. Lawrence, and D. Burch, 131–153. Edward Elgar: London.Google Scholar
  12. Campbell, H., and A.M. Stuart. 2005. Disciplining the organic commodity. In Agricultural governance: Globalization, the new politics of regulation, ed. V. Higgins, and G. Lawrence, 84–97. London: Routledge.Google Scholar
  13. Epstein, G., and I. Gang. 2002. The political economy of the kosher wars. Rutgers University, Department of Economics, Departmental Working Papers #200227. http://ideas.repec.org/p/rut/rutres/200227.html. Accessed on 9 Feb 2008.
  14. Ficquet, É. 2006. De la chair imbibée de foi: la viande comme marqueur de la frontière entre chrétiens et musulmans en Éthiopie. Anthropology of Food 5(Mai): 1–15. http://aof.revues.org/document105.html. Accessed on 4 Feb 2008.
  15. Fischer, J. 2007. Boycott or Buycott? Malay middle-class consumption post -9/11. Ethnos 72(1): 29–50.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  16. Fischer, J. 2008. Feeding secularism: The halal market in London. http://www.ku.dk/satsning/Religion/sekularism_and_beyond/pdf/Fischer_Paper.pdf. Accessed on 4 Feb 2008.
  17. Fischer, J. 2005. The moderate and the excessive: Malay consumption in suburban Malaysia. PhD dissertation. Roskilde University, Denmark.Google Scholar
  18. Fulponi, L. 2006. Private voluntary standards in the food system: The perspective of major food retailers in OECD countries. Food Policy 31(1): 1–13.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  19. Gastwirt, H. 1974. Fraud, corruption, and holiness: The controversy over the supervision of Jewish dietary practice in New York City, 1881–1940. Port Washington: Kennikat.Google Scholar
  20. Giovannucci, D., and S. Ponte. 2005. Standards as a new form of social contract? Sustainability initiatives in the coffee industry. Food Policy 30: 284–301.Google Scholar
  21. Guthman, J. 2003. Eating risk: The politics of labeling genetically engineered food. In Engineering trouble: Biotechnology and its discontents, ed. R. Schurmann, and D.D. Doyle, 130–151. Berkeley: University of California Press.Google Scholar
  22. Harvey, M., A. McMeekin, and A. Warde (eds.). 2004. Qualities of food. Manchester: Manchester University Press.Google Scholar
  23. Hatanaka, M., C. Bain, and L. Busch. 2005. Third-party certification in the global agrifood system. Food Policy 30: 354–369.Google Scholar
  24. Henson, S., and T. Reardon. 2005. Private agri-food standards: Implications for food policy and the agri-food system. Food Policy 30: 241–253.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  25. Jahn, G., M. Schramm, and A. Spiller. 2005. The reliability of certification: Quality labels as a consumer policy tool. Journal of Consumer Policy 28: 53–73.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  26. Kjærnes, U., M. Harvey, and A. Warde. 2007. Trust in food: A comparative and institutional analysis. Basingstoke Hampshire: Palgrave.Google Scholar
  27. Le Heron, R. 2003. Creating food futures: Reflections on food governance issues in New Zealand’s agri-food sector. Journal of Rural Studies 19: 111–125.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  28. Murcott, A. 1982. The cultural significance of food and eating. Proceedings of the Nutrition Society 41(2): 203–210.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  29. Poortinga, W., and N.F. Pidgeon. 2005. Trust in risk regulation: Cause or consequences of the acceptability of GM food? Risk Analysis 24(6): 1475–1486.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  30. Power, M. 1997. The audit society: Rituals of verification. Oxford: Oxford University Press.Google Scholar
  31. Reardon, T., J.-M. Codron, L. Busch, J. Bingen, and C. Harris. 2001. Global change in agrifood grades and standards: Agribusiness strategic responses in developing countries. International Food and Agribusiness Management Review 2(3/4): 421–435.Google Scholar
  32. Ropkins, K., and A.J. Beck. 2000. Evaluation of worldwide approaches to the use of HACCP to Control Food Safety. Trends in Food Science and Technology 11: 10–21.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  33. Rosin, C. 2007. Justifying the “alternative”: Renegotiating conventions in the yerba mate network. In Constructing “alternative” food geographies: Representation and practice, ed. D. May, L. Holloway, and M. Kneafsey, 115–132. Amsterdam: Elsevier.Google Scholar
  34. Rosin, C., and H. Campbell. 2009. Beyond bifurcation: Examining the conventions of organic agriculture in New Zealand. Journal of Rural Studies 25(1): 35–47.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  35. Sparks, P., and R. Shepherd. 1994. Public perceptions of the potential hazards associated with food production and food consumption: An empirical study. Risk Analysis 14(5): 799–806.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  36. Tanner, B. 2000. Independent assessment by third-party certification bodies. Food Control 11: 415–417.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  37. Unnevehr, L., and T. Roberts. 2002. Food safety incentives in a changing world food system. Food Control 13(2): 73–76.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  38. Wan Hassan, M., and C.M. Hall. 2003. The demand for halal food among travelers in New Zealand. In Food tourism around the world: Development, management, and markets, ed. M.C. Hall, L. Sharples, R. Mitchell, N. Macionis, and B. Cambourne, 81–101. Oxford: Butterworth.CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  39. Watts, M., and D. Goodman. 1997. Agrarian questions: Global appetite, local metabolism: Nature, culture and industry in fin-de-siècle agro-food systems. In Globalizing food: Agrarian questions and global restructuring, ed. D. Goodman, and M. Watts, 1–34. London: Routledge.Google Scholar

Copyright information

© Springer Science+Business Media B.V. 2010

Authors and Affiliations

  1. 1.Centre for the Study of Agriculture, Food, and EnvironmentUniversity of OtagoDunedinNew Zealand
  2. 2.Institute for Science and SocietyUniversity of NottinghamNottinghamUK

Personalised recommendations