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Chromatographia

, Volume 79, Issue 13–14, pp 851–860 | Cite as

Simultaneous Detection of Glabridin, (−)-α-Bisabolol, and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate in Whitening Cosmetic Creams Using HPLC-PAD

  • Jong-Sup JeonEmail author
  • Han-Taek Kim
  • Myeong-Gil Kim
  • Moon-Seog Oh
  • Se-Ra Hong
  • Mi-Hye Yoon
  • Ho-Chul Shin
  • Jae-Han Shim
  • Nehal Aly Afifi
  • Ahmet Hacımüftüoğlu
  • A. M. Abd El-AtyEmail author
Original

Abstract

A simultaneous analytical method was developed and validated to quantify three lipophilic compounds; namely glabridin (an isoflavonoid isolated from crude licorice), (−)-α-bisabolol (a sesquiterpene alcohol obtained from plant extracts), and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (a fat-soluble molecule derived from vitamin C) in functional cosmetic cream using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) coupled with photodiode array detection (PAD). Cosmetic cream samples were extracted with a mixture of acetonitrile and isopropyl alcohol (45:55, v/v) and the target compounds were separated on a C18 column with a gradient mobile phase consisting of deionized water, acetonitrile, and isopropyl alcohol. The detector wavelengths were 228, 202, and 221 nm, for glabridin, (−)-α-bisabolol, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, respectively. The calibration curves showed good linearity with determination coefficients (R 2) ≥ 0.999. The mean recoveries were ranged between 89.8 and 103.9 % with relative standard deviations (RSDs) <5 %. The intra- and inter-day precision was <2 %. The limits of detection (LODs) were 0.03, 0.4, and 4.02 μg mL−1 for glabridin, (−)-α-bisabolol, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, respectively. The method was successfully applied for monitoring 11 market samples, in which glabridin was quantified in the range of 17.5–25 mg 100 g−1, (−)-α-bisabolol in the range of 25.1–677 mg 100 g−1, and 140.6–291.5 mg 100 g−1 for ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate. The proposed analytical method is simple, sensitive, and versatile and can be used for the quantification of lipophilic compounds in cosmetics in a single chromatographic run.

Keywords

High-performance liquid chromatography Glabridin (−)-α-Bisabolol Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate Functional cosmetic 

Notes

Acknowledgments

The authors gratefully acknowledge the financial support from the Gyeonggi Province Institute of Health and Environment (Suwon city, Republic of Korea).

Compliance with standards

Conflict of interest

The authors have declared no conflict of interest.

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Copyright information

© Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 2016

Authors and Affiliations

  • Jong-Sup Jeon
    • 1
    Email author
  • Han-Taek Kim
    • 1
  • Myeong-Gil Kim
    • 1
  • Moon-Seog Oh
    • 1
  • Se-Ra Hong
    • 1
  • Mi-Hye Yoon
    • 1
  • Ho-Chul Shin
    • 2
  • Jae-Han Shim
    • 3
  • Nehal Aly Afifi
    • 4
  • Ahmet Hacımüftüoğlu
    • 5
  • A. M. Abd El-Aty
    • 2
    • 4
    Email author
  1. 1.Public Health Research DivisionGyeonggi Province Institute of Health and EnvironmentSuwon-SiRepublic of Korea
  2. 2.Department of Veterinary Pharmacology and Toxicology, College of Veterinary MedicineKonkuk UniversitySeoulRepublic of Korea
  3. 3.Biotechnology Research InstituteCollege of Agriculture and Life Sciences, Chonnam National UniversityGwangjuRepublic of Korea
  4. 4.Department of Pharmacology, Faculty of Veterinary MedicineCairo UniversityGizaEgypt
  5. 5.Department of Medical Pharmacology, Medical FacultyAtaturk UniversityErzurumTurkey

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