Climbing time to exhaustion is a determinant of climbing performance in high-level sport climbers

  • Vanesa España-RomeroEmail author
  • Francisco B. Ortega Porcel
  • Enrique G. Artero
  • David Jiménez-Pavón
  • Ángel Gutiérrez Sainz
  • Manuel J. Castillo Garzón
  • Jonatan R. Ruiz
Original Article


We studied which physiological and kinanthropometric characteristics determine climbing performance in 16 high-level sports climbers aged 29.9 ± 4.9 years. Body composition parameters were measured with dual energy X-ray absorptiometry scanner. We also measured kinanthropometric and physical fitness parameters. The sex-specific 75th percentile value of onsight climbing ability was used to divide the sample into expert (<75th) and elite (≥75th) climbers. All the analyses were adjusted by sex. The 75th percentile value of onsight climbing ability was 7b in women and 8b in men. There were no differences between expert and elite climbers in the studied variables, except in climbing time to exhaustion and bone mineral density. Elite climbers had a significantly higher time to exhaustion than the expert group (770.2 ± 385 vs. 407.7 ± 150 s, respectively, P = 0.001). These results suggest that, among climbers with a high level of performance, as those analysed in this study, climbing time to exhaustion is a major determinant of climbing performance.


Sport climbing High-level performance Climbing time to exhaustion Bone mineral density 



We gratefully acknowledge the help of all the participants who took part in the study. This study was supported by the Spanish Ministry of Education (EX-2007-1124, EX-2008-0641, AP2005-4358 and AP-2005-3827) and Education and Science-FEDER funds (Acciones Complementarias DEP2007-29933-E).


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Copyright information

© Springer-Verlag 2009

Authors and Affiliations

  • Vanesa España-Romero
    • 1
    • 2
    Email author
  • Francisco B. Ortega Porcel
    • 1
    • 2
  • Enrique G. Artero
    • 1
  • David Jiménez-Pavón
    • 1
    • 3
  • Ángel Gutiérrez Sainz
    • 1
  • Manuel J. Castillo Garzón
    • 1
  • Jonatan R. Ruiz
    • 2
  1. 1.Department of Physiology, School of MedicineUniversity of GranadaGranadaSpain
  2. 2.Unit for Preventive Nutrition, Department of Biosciences and Nutrition at NOVUMKarolinska InstitutetHuddingeSweden
  3. 3.Department of Health and Human Performance, Faculty of Physical Activity and Sport Sciences, INEFTechnical University of MadridMadridSpain

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