Der Hautarzt

, Volume 56, Issue 4, pp 328–339 | Cite as

Topische Externa in der Hautalterung

Leitthema

Zusammenfassung

Ein vernünftiges Sonnenverhalten und UV-Schutz sind die wichtigsten Maßnahmen, um die Haut vor epithelialen Tumoren und Hautalterung zu schützen. Dieser Bericht gibt einen Überblick über die nichtinvasiven, topischen Möglichkeiten, Faltenbildung und Pigmentunregelmäßigkeiten der reifen Haut zu bessern. Der vorliegende Beitrag erläutert die Effekte des UV-Schutzes mit Lichtschutzfiltern und topischen Antioxidanzien. Dargestellt wird die Wirkung der Vitamin-A-Säure-Derivate, des chemischen Peelings und bleichender Agenzien. Neue Wirkstoffe werden vorgestellt.

Schlüsselwörter

Hautalterung Sonnenschutzpräparate Antioxidanzien Vitamin-A-Säurederivate Chemisches Peeling Bleichende Agenzien 

Topical treatment of skin aging

Abstract

Safe levels of UV exposure and UV protection are the most important measures to protect the skin from epithelial skin cancer and skin aging. This report reviews noninvasive topical methods to counteract skin wrinkling and irregular pigmentation of aging skin. Furthermore, information is provided about the effects of UV protection by using sunscreens and topical antioxidants. The effect of vitamin A acid derivatives, chemical peeling, and bleaching agents is considered. Newly developed substances are presented.

Keywords

Skin aging Sunscreens Antioxidants Vitamin A acid derivatives Chemical peeling Bleaching agents 

Literatur

  1. 1.
    Bangha E, Elsner P, Kistler GS (1996) Suppression of UV-induced erythema by topical treatment with melatonin (N-acetyl-5-methoxytryptamine). A dose response? Arch Dermatol Res 288:522–526CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  2. 2.
    Bayerl C (2003) Chemisches Peeling. In: Worret WI, Gehring W (Hrsg) Kosmetische Dermatologie, 1. Aufl. Springer, Berlin Heidelberg New York Tokio, S 189–195Google Scholar
  3. 3.
    Bayerl C, Keil D (2002) Isoflavonoide in der Behandlung der Hautalterung postmenopausaler Frauen. Akt Dermatol 28:14–18CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  4. 4.
    Bayerl C, Worret I (2003) Chemisches Peeling. Leitlinien der Arbeitsgemeinschaft für ästhetische Dermatologie und Kosmetologie e.V. (ADK) der DDG. Aesthet Dermatol 4:34–41Google Scholar
  5. 5.
    Barciszewski J, Siboska GE, Pedersen BO et al. (1997) Furfural, a precursor of the cytokinin hormone kinetin, and base propenals are formed by hydroxyl radical damage of DNA. Biochem Biophys Res Commun 238:317–319CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  6. 6.
    Becker FF, Langford FP, Rubin MG, Speelman P (1996) A histological comparison of 50% and 70% glycolic acid peels solutions with various pHs. Dermatol Surg 22:463–465CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  7. 7.
    Berneburg M, Grether-Beck S, Kurten V et al. (1999) Singlet oxygen mediates the UVA-induced generation of the photoaging-associated mitochondrial common deletion. J Biol Chem 274:15345–15349CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  8. 8.
    Boisnic S, Branchet-Gumila MC, Le Charpentier Y, Segard C (1999) Repair of UVA-induced elastic fiber and collagen damage by 0,05% retinaldehyde cream in an ex vivo human skin model. Dermatology 1 [Suppl 1]:43–48CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  9. 9.
    Castanet J, Ortonne JP (1997) Pigmentary changes in aged and photoaged skin. Arch Dermatol 133:1296–12996CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  10. 10.
    Chung JH, Seo JY, Lee MK et al. (2002) Ultraviolet modulation of human macrophage metalloelastase in human skin in vivo. J Invest Dermatol 119:507–512CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  11. 11.
    Clark RE, Weingold OH, Hirsh E et al. (1991) TCA chemical peel? Effective for extensive actinic keratoses. Skin Allergy News 22:34Google Scholar
  12. 12.
    Costa B, Conti S, Giagnoni G, Colleoni M (2002) Therapeutic effect of the endogenous fatty acid amide, palmitoylethanolamide, in rat acute inflammation: inhibition of nitric oxide and cyclo-oxygenase systems. Brit J Pharmacol 137:413–420CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  13. 13.
    Darr D, Dunston S, Faust H, Pinell S (1996) Effectiveness of antioxidants (vitamin C and E) with and without sunscreens as topical photoprotectants. Acta Derma Venereol 76:264–268Google Scholar
  14. 14.
    Ditre CM, Griffith TD, Murphy GF et al. (1996) Effects of α-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastrucutral study. J Am Acad Dermatol 34:187–195Google Scholar
  15. 15.
    Drake LA, Dinehardt SC, Goltz RW et al. (1995) Guidelines for chemical peeling. J Am Acad Dermatol 33:497–503CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  16. 16.
    Dissemond J, Schneider LA, Wlaschek M et al. (2003) The lazaroid tirilazad is a new inhibitor of direct and indirect UVA-induced lipid peroxidation in human dermal fibroblasts. Arch Dermatol Res 295:287–292CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  17. 17.
    Elmets CA, Singh D, Tubesing K et al. (2001) Cutaneous photoprotection from ultraviolet injury by green tea phenols. J Am Acad Dermatol 44:425–432CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  18. 18.
    Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF (2002) Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatol Surg 28:231–236Google Scholar
  19. 19.
    Gensler HL (1997) Prevention of photocarcinogenesis and photoaging by topical niacinamide. Nutr Cancer 29:157–162Google Scholar
  20. 20.
    Green C, Orchard G, Cerio R, Hawk JL (1998) A clinicopathological study of the effects of topical retinyl propionate cream in skin photoaging. Clin Exp Dermatol 23:162–167CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  21. 21.
    Griffiths CEM, Kang S, Ellis CN et al. (1995) Two concentrations of topical tretinoin (retinoic acid) cause similar improvement of photoaging but different degrees of irritation. Arch Dermatol 131:1037–1044CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  22. 22.
    Hermanns JF, Petit L, Martalo O et al. (2000) Unraveling the patterns of subclinical phaeomelanin-enriched facial hyperpigmentation: effect of depigmenting agents. Dermatology 201:118–122Google Scholar
  23. 23.
    Hibatallah J, Carduner C, Peolman MC (1999) In-vivo and in-vitro assessment of free-radical scavenger activity of Ginkgo flavone glycosides at high concentration. J Pharm Pharmacol 51:1435–1440CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  24. 24.
    Hoppe U, Bergemann J, Diembeck W et al. (2000) Coenzyme Q10, a cutaneous antioxidant and energizer. Biofactors 9:371–378Google Scholar
  25. 25.
    Javaheri SM, Handa S, Kaur I, Kumar B (2001) Safety and efficacy of glycolic acid facial peel in Indian women with melasma. Int J Dermatol 40:354–357CrossRefPubMedGoogle Scholar
  26. 26.
    Jurkiewitz BA, Bissett DL, Buettner GR (1995) Effect of topically applied tocopherol on ultraviolet radiation-mediated free radical damage in skin. J Invest Dermatol 104:484–488CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  27. 27.
    Kang S, Duell EA, Fisher GJ et al. (1995) Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels of irritation. J Invest Dermatol 105:549–556CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  28. 28.
    Kang S, Leydon JJ, Lowe NJ et al. (2001) Tazarotene cream for the treatment of facial photodamage: a multicenter, investigator-masked, randomized, vehicle-controlled, parallel comparison of 0,01%, 0,05%, and 0,1% tazarotene creams with 0,05% tretinoin emollient cream applied once daily for 24 weeks. Arch Dermatol 137:1597–1604Google Scholar
  29. 29.
    Kang S, Chung JH, Lee JH et al. (2003) Topical N-acetyl cysteine and genistein prevent ultraviolet light induced signaling that leads to photoaging in human skin in vivo. J Invest Dermatol 120:835–841CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  30. 30.
    Kameyama K, Sakai C, Kondoh S et al. (1996) Inhibitory effect of magnesium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate (VC-PMG) on melanogenesis in vitro and in vivo. J Am Acad Dermatol 34:29–33Google Scholar
  31. 31.
    Keil D, Bayerl C (2002) Phytoöstrogene als Antiaging-Mittel. Akt Dermatol 28:69–73Google Scholar
  32. 32.
    Keum YS, Park KK, Lee JM et al. (2000) Antioxidant and anti-tumor promoting activities of the methanol extract of heat-processed ginseng. Cancer Lett 150:41–48CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  33. 33.
    Kim SJ, Park JH, Kim DH et al. (1998) Increased in vivo collagen synthesis and in vitro cell proliferative effect of glycolic acid. Dermatol Surg 24:1054–1058CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  34. 34.
    Kligman AM, Baker TJ, Gordon HL (1985) Long-term histologic follow-up of phenol face peels. Plast Reconstr Surg 75:652–659Google Scholar
  35. 35.
    Krutmann J, Diepgen T (2003) Hautalterung, Grundlagen, Prävention, Therapie. Springer, Berlin Heidelberg New York Tokio, S 238–242Google Scholar
  36. 36.
    Krüger N, Fiegert L, Becker D et al. (2003) Zur Behandlung der Hautalterung: Spurenelemente in Form eines Kupfertripeptidkomplexes. Kosm Med 1:31–33Google Scholar
  37. 37.
    Lavker RM, Kaidbey K, Leyden JJ (1996) Effects of topical ammonium lactate on cutaneous atrophy from a potent topical corticosteroid. J Am Acad Dermatol 34:187–195Google Scholar
  38. 38.
    Lawrence N, Cox SE, Cockerell CJ et al. (1995) A comparison of the efficacy and safety of Jessner’s solution and 35% trichloroacetic acid vs 5% fluorouracil in the treatment of widespread facial actinic keratoses. Arch Dermatol 131:176–181CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  39. 39.
    Lin JY, Selim MA, Shea CR et al. (2003) UV photoprotection by combination topical antioxidants vitamin C and vitamin E. J Am Acad Dermatol 48:866–874Google Scholar
  40. 40.
    Miyazaki K, Hanimizu T, Iizuka R, Chiba K (2002) Genistein and daidzein stimulate hyaluronic acid production in transformed human keratinocyte culture and hairless mouse skin. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol 15:175–183CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  41. 41.
    Moy LS, Kotler R, Lesser T (1999) The histologic evaluation of pulsed carbon dioxide laser resurfacing versus phenol chemical peels in vivo. Dermatol Surg 25:597–600CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  42. 42.
    Nelson BR, Fader DJ, Gillard M et al. (1995) Pilot histologic and ultrastructural study of the effects of medium depth facial peels on dermal collagen in patients with actinically damaged skin. J Am Acad Dermatol 132:472–478CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  43. 43.
    Nusgens BV, Humbert P, Rougier A et al. (2001) Topically applied Vitamin C enhances the mRNA level of collagen I and III, their processing enzymes and tissue inhibitors of matrix metalloproteinase I in the human dermis. J Invest Dermatol 116:853–859CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  44. 44.
    Oren A (2002) Diversity of halophilic microorganisms: environments, phylogeny, physiology, and applications. J Ind Microbiol Biotechnol 28:56–63CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  45. 45.
    Piérard GE, Kligman AM, Stoudemeyer T, Lévêque JL (1999) Comparative effects of retinoid acid, glycolic acid and a lipophilic derivative of salicylic acid on photodamaged epidermis. Dermatology 199:50–53CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  46. 46.
    Podda M, Traber MG, Weber C et al. (1998) UV-irradiation depletes antioxidants and causes oxidative damage in a model of human skin. Free Rad Biol Med 24:55–65CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  47. 47.
    Rendl M, Mayer C, Weninger W, Tschachler E (2001) Topically applied lactic acid increases spontaneous secretion of vascular endothelial growth factor by human reconstructed epidermis. Br J Dermatol 145:3–9CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  48. 48.
    Rice-Evans C, Miller NJ, Paganda G (1996) Structure-antioxidant activity relationship of flavonoids and phenolic acids. Free Radical Biol Med 20:933–956CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  49. 49.
    Saurat JH, Didierjean L, Masgrau E et al. (1994) Topical retinaldehyde on human skin: biologic effects and tolerance. J Invest Dermatol 103:770–774PubMedGoogle Scholar
  50. 50.
    Schmidt JB, Binder M, Demschik G et al. (1996) Treatment of skin aging with topical estrogens. Int J Dermatol 35:669–674Google Scholar
  51. 51.
    Stege H, Roza L, Vink AA et al. (2000) Enzyme plus light therapy to repair DNA-damage in ultraviolet-B-irradiated human skin. Proc Natl Acad Sci U S A 97:1790–1795CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  52. 52.
    Stiller MJ, Bartolone J, Stern R et al. (1996) Topical 8% glycolic acid and 8% L-lactic acid creams for the treatment of photodamaged skin. Arch Dermatol 123:631–636CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  53. 53.
    Thompson SC, Jolley D, Marks R (1993) Reduction of solar keratoses by regular sunscreen use. N Eng J Med 329:1147–1151CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  54. 54.
    Thornton MJ (2003) The biological actions of estrogens on skin. Exp Dermatol 11:487–502CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  55. 55.
    Tse Y, Ostad A, Lee HS et al. (1996) A clinical and histologic evaluation of two medium-depth peels. Glycolic acid versus Jessner’s trichloracetic acid. Dermatol Surg 22:781–786CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  56. 56.
    Varani J, Warner RL, Gharaee-Kermani M et al. (2000) Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin. J Invest Dermatol 114:480–486CrossRefGoogle Scholar
  57. 57.
    Worret WI, Gehring W (Hrsg) (2003) Kosmetische Dermatologie, 1. Aufl. Springer, Berlin Heidelberg New York TokioGoogle Scholar
  58. 58.
    Yarosh D, Klein J, O’Connor A et al. (2001) Effect of topically applied T4 endonuclease in liposome on skin cancer in xeroderma pigmentosum: a randomised study. Xeroderma pigmentosum study group. Lancet 24:926–929CrossRefGoogle Scholar

Copyright information

© Springer Medizin Verlag 2005

Authors and Affiliations

  1. 1.Klinik für Dermatologie und Venerologie und Allergologie der UniversitätsklinikKlinikum Mannheim gGmbHMannheim
  2. 2.Klinik für Dermatologie und Venerologie und Allergologie der UniversitätsklinikKlinikum Mannheim gGmbHMannheim

Personalised recommendations