Journal of the Oceanographical Society of Japan

, Volume 28, Issue 5, pp 187–202 | Cite as

A field study of the development of wind-waves

Part 1. The experiment
  • Keisuke Taira
Original
Received:

Abstract

This paper presents the results of observation on the development of wind-waves which were generated in a lake water about 420 cm deep with a fetch 12 km long. Measurements of surface elevation were carried out at the end of an observational pier where the water depth was 80 cm. The wave momentum flux, i.e., the growth rate of the wave momentum, was estimated from both significant waves and power spectral densities for the wave records. The values obtained by the two ways accorded fairly well and they were 5∼7 % as large as the wind stress measured simultaneously. The exponential growth rate of spectral densities for a frequency component was in good accord with that observed bySnyder andCox (1966) and by others. If these growth rates are applied to all the components of the spectrum, the wave momentum flux must exceed the wind stress. This cannot explain the experimental results nor can be physically accepted. The difference of spectral densities between the two successive runs showed that the increase of spectral densities was. limited in several bands of frequency. The phenomena are discussed in relation with the ‘overshoot-undershoot effects’ studied byBarnett andSutherland (1968).

Observational results suggest that the spectral growth of a certain component is closely related to the spectral densities of other components. Energy exchange among componented waves has not been considered in the theories for generation and development of wind-waves established by Phillips, Miles and others.

New generation mechanism suggested byLonguet-Higgins (1969) was found to be able to describe the observed growth rates of the formΦ(f)={γ(1/2)(t−t1/2)}2: the spectral densityΦ(f) was proportional to the square of durationt. However, the mechanism can not explain the overshoot-undershoot effects peculiar to the equilibrium spectrum of windwaves.

Three frequencies characterizing the discrete distributions of frequency bands where spectral densities increased were examined and three waves corresponding to these frequencies were found to be satisfying the resonance conditions for the ‘wave-wave interactions’ among three sinusoidal wave trains as studied byPhillips (1960),Longuet-Higgins (1962) andBenny (1962). The interactions are suggested to predict well both the spectral growth proportional to squares of duration and the ceaseless oscillations of spectral densities in an equilibrium spectrum.

Keywords

Spectral Density Pier Power Spectral Density Wind Stress Significant Wave 
These keywords were added by machine and not by the authors. This process is experimental and the keywords may be updated as the learning algorithm improves.
This is a preview of subscription content, log in to check access.

Preview

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

References

  1. Barnett, T. P. andJ. C. Wilkerson (1967): On the generation of ocean waves as inferred from airborne radar measurements of fetch-limited spectra. J. Marine Res.25, 292–328.Google Scholar
  2. Barnett, T.P. (1968): On the generation, dissipation, and prediction of ocean wind waves. J. Geophys. Res.73, 513–529.Google Scholar
  3. Barnett, T.P., andA.J. Sutherland (1968): A note on an overshoot effect in wind-generated waves. J. Geophys. Res.73, 6879–1885.Google Scholar
  4. Benney, D.J. (1962): Non-linear gravity wave interactions. J. Fluid Mech.14, 577–584.Google Scholar
  5. Dobson, F.W. (1971): Measurements of atmospheric pressure on wind-generated sea waves. J. Fluid Mech.48, 91–127.Google Scholar
  6. Hamada, T., A. Shibayama andH. Kato (1966): A note on the development of wind waves in an experiment. Port and Harbour Res. Inst. Ministry of Transport, Japan. Rept. no.12, 16–29.Google Scholar
  7. Hasselmann, K. (1962): On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity wave spectrum. Part I: General theory. J. Fluid Mech.12, 481–500.Google Scholar
  8. Hasselmann, K. (1963): On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity wave spectrum. Part II: Conservation theorems; wave particle analogy; irreversibility. J. Fluid Mech.15, 273–281.Google Scholar
  9. Inoue, T. (1966): On the growth of the spectrum of a wind generated sea according to a modified Miles-Phillips Mechanism. Geophysical Sciences Lab. Rept. TR 66-6, School of Engineering Science, New York University.Google Scholar
  10. Iwata, N. andT. Tanaka (1970): Spectral development of wind waves. Kokuritsu Bosai Kagakugijutsu Senta Kenkyu Hokoku,4, 1–21. (in Japanese)Google Scholar
  11. Kinsman, B. (1965): Wind waves. Prentice-Hall. Inc., Englewood Cliffs, N.J.Google Scholar
  12. Korvin-Kroukovsky, B. V. (1965): Balance of energies in the development of sea waves, Semiempirial evaluation. Deut. Hydrograph. Z.18, 145–160.Google Scholar
  13. Longuet-Higgins, M.S. (1962): Resonant interactions between two trains of gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech.12, 321–332.Google Scholar
  14. Longuet-Higgins, M.S., andN. D. Smith (1966): An experiment of third order resonant wave interactions. J. Fluid Mech.25, 417–435.Google Scholar
  15. Longuet-Higgins, M. S. (1969): A nonlinear mechanism for the generation of sea waves. Proc. Roy. Soc. A.311, 371–389.Google Scholar
  16. McGoldrick, L.F., O. m. Phillips, N.E. Huang, andT. H. Hodgson, (1966): Measurements of third-order resonant wave interactions. J. Fluid Mech.25, 193–217.Google Scholar
  17. Mitsuta, Y., T. Hanafusa, T. Maitani andT. Fujitani (1970): Turbulent fluxes over the Lake Kasumigaura. Special Contributions. Geophys. Inst. University of Kyoto. No.10, 75–84.Google Scholar
  18. Mitsuyasu, H. (1968): A note on the nonlinear energy transfer in the spectrum of wind generated waves. Rept. Res. Inst. for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University.XVI, 251–264.Google Scholar
  19. Mitsuyasu, H. (1969): On the growth of the spectrum of wind-generated waves (II)-Note on the equilibrium spectrum and the Overshoot phenomena-. Rept. Res. Inst. for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University.XVII, 235–248.Google Scholar
  20. Phillips, O.M. (1960): On the dynamics of unsteady gravity waves of finite amplitude. Part I. The elementary interactions. J. Fluid Mech.9, 193–217.Google Scholar
  21. Phillips, O.M. (1966): The dynamics of the upper ocean. Cambridge University Press.Google Scholar
  22. Snodgrass, F.E., G.W. Groves, K.F. Hasselmann, G.R. Miller, W. H. Munk andW.H. Powers (1966): Propagation of ocean swell across the Pacific. Phil. Trans. Roy. Soc. London, A.,259, 431–497.Google Scholar
  23. Snyder, R.L. andC.S. Cox (1966): A field study of the wind generation of ocean waves. J. Marine Res.,24, 141–178.Google Scholar
  24. Starr, V.P. (1947): A momentum integral for surface waves in deep water. J. Marine Res.VI, 126–134.Google Scholar
  25. Stewart, R.W. (1961): The wave drag of wind over water. J. Fluid Mech.10, 189–194.Google Scholar
  26. Sverdrup, H.U. and W.H.Munk (1947): Wind, sea swell: theory of relations for forecasting. U.S. Navy Hydrogr. Office Pub. No. 601.Google Scholar
  27. Taira, K. andY. Nagata (1968): Experimental study of wave reflection by a sloping beach. J. Oceanogr. Soc. Japan,24, 242–252.Google Scholar
  28. Taira, K. (1971a): Measurements of momentum transfer from air to sea. Proc. Joint Oceanogr. Assembly (Tokyo, 1970): 202–204.Google Scholar
  29. Taira, K. (1971b): Wave particle velocities measured with a Doppler current meter. J. Oceanogr. Soc. Japan.27, 218–232.Google Scholar

Copyright information

© The Oceanographical Society of Japan 1972

Authors and Affiliations

  • Keisuke Taira
    • 1
  1. 1.Ocean Research InstituteUniversity of TokyoTokyoJapan

Personalised recommendations