Skip to main content
Log in

Finite amplitude ocean waves

Waves with peaked crests and broad troughs

  • General|Article
  • Published:
Resonance Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

When amplitudes are small, ocean waves are represented by sinusoidal functions. There are, however, situations when this treatment of waves is inadequate. In such situations, finite amplitude wave theories that deal with waves having peaked crest have to be used. In this article, selected features of a variety of such wave profiles are presented.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Similar content being viewed by others

Suggested Reading

  1. U S Army Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Manual, Part II, Chapter 1. pp.II-1.1–.121, 2008.

    Google Scholar 

  2. W Bascom, Waves and Beaches, The dynamics of the ocean surface, Doubleday, Garden City, N Y, 268 p.196.

  3. R L Wiegel, Oceanographical Engineering, Prentice Hall Inc. pp.11–132, 1964.

    Google Scholar 

  4. J M Williams, Limiting gravity waves in water of finite depth, Phil. Trans. Roy. Soc. London, Vol.A31, pp.139–188, 1981.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  5. J D Fenton, Nonlinear wave Theories, The Sea, Vol.9, Ocean Engineering Science, Eds. B Le Méhauté and D M Hanes, New York, Wiley, pp.1–17, 1990.

    Google Scholar 

  6. R J Dean and P A Eeagleson, Finite amplitude waves, Estuary and coastline hydrodynamics, Ed. A T Ippen Mc Graw-Hill book company, pp.93–32, 1966.

  7. B Kinsman, Wind Waves, their generation and propagation on ocean surface, Prentice Hall Inc, NJ, p. 675, 1965.

    Google Scholar 

  8. J D Fenton, Coastal and ocean engineering http://johndfenton.com/Lectures/Coastal-and-Ocean-Engineering/Coastal-and-Ocean.pdf

  9. J D Fenton and M M Rienecker, A Fourier method for solving nonlinear water—wave problems: application to solitary-wave interactions, J. Fluid Mech., Vol.118, pp.411–443, 1982.

    Article  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to K. K. Varma.

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this article

Varma, K.K. Finite amplitude ocean waves. Reson 19, 1047–1057 (2014). https://doi.org/10.1007/s12045-014-0123-x

Download citation

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s12045-014-0123-x

Keywords

Navigation