Abstract
Isoflavones are polyphenol compounds found mainly in legumes such as soybeans (Glycine max (L.) Merrill). These compounds can be found in different chemical forms; however, the beneficial effects for skin care have been mainly credited to their free forms. This manuscript claims to review the main effects of isoflavone aglycones on the skin, the different techniques for obtaining bioactive forms from soybeans, and the interest in incorporating them into topical systems. The benefits of dermatological application of isoflavones, as anti-aging action, estrogenic activity, wound healing properties, and antiphotocarcinogenic effects are highlighted. Moreover, the advantages and drawbacks of the extraction techniques of soybeans, methods for converting glucosides into aglycones, and purification procedures are described. Different strategies to incorporate these poorly soluble compounds in conventional or nanostructured delivery systems are also discussed. Illustrative examples especially for genistein-loaded liposomes, nanoemulsions, nanocapsules and cyclodextrin complexation are reported.
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Abbreviations
- CD:
-
Cyclodextrin
- CO2 :
-
Carbon dioxide
- DPPH:
-
2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl
- ER:
-
Estrogen receptor
- HRT:
-
Hormone replacement therapies
- IA:
-
Isoflavone aglycones
- LogP:
-
Partition coefficient
- MCT:
-
Medium chain triglycerides
- MTT:
-
3-(4,5-Dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide
- NMR:
-
Nuclear magnetic resonance
- o/w:
-
Oil in water
- PAR-2:
-
Protease type 2
- ROS:
-
Reactive oxygen species
- RSM:
-
Response surface methodology
- SLN:
-
Solid lipid nanoparticles
- TGF-β1:
-
Transforming growth factor β1
- UV:
-
Ultraviolet
- UV–Vis:
-
Ultraviolet–visible
- w/o:
-
Water in oil
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Acknowledgments
This work was supported by the Brazilian Federal Agency for Support and Evaluation of Graduate Education (CAPES)—Rede Nanobiotec-Brasil (grant agreement nº 902/2009) and State Foundation for Research Support (FAPERGS)—PRONEM (Grant Agreement No. 11/2206-7). M.C.N. wishes to thank CAPES for her scholarship.
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Nemitz, M.C., Moraes, R.C., Koester, L.S. et al. Bioactive soy isoflavones: extraction and purification procedures, potential dermal use and nanotechnology-based delivery systems. Phytochem Rev 14, 849–869 (2015). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11101-014-9382-0
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s11101-014-9382-0