Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

A two-dimensional experimental-numerical approach to investigate wave transformation over muddy beds

  • Published:
Ocean Dynamics Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

The effect of a thin fluid mud layer on nearshore two-dimensional wave transformation is studied through numerical modeling and wave basin experiments. The wave basin experiments were conducted on both muddy and fixed beds. A mixture of commercial kaolinite and tap water was used as fluid mud layer, where its rheological viscoelastic parameters were derived from rheometer cyclic tests. The results can be utilized for better understanding of the complex wave transformation phenomena under real field conditions where the combined effects of shoaling, refraction, and diffraction as well as wave energy dissipation due to existing mud beds and wave breaking jointly occur. A dissipation model was coupled to the combined refraction and diffraction 1 (REF/DIF 1) wave model to develop a numerical wave height transformation model for muddy beaches. The proposed model was utilized to analyze the experimental data on muddy beds. Comparing the computed values of wave heights over mud layer with the corresponding measurements shows a fair agreement.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Log in via an institution

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Institutional subscriptions

Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
Fig. 11
Fig. 12
Fig. 13
Fig. 14
Fig. 15
Fig. 16
Fig. 17
Fig. 18

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  • Dally WR, Dean RG, Darlymple RA (1985) Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile. J Geophys Res 90(C6):11917–11927

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Dalrymple RA, Liu PL-F (1978) Waves over muds, a two-layer fluid model. J Phys Oceanogr 8:1121–1131

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Dalrymple RA, Kirby JT, Hwang PA (1984) Waves diffraction due to areas of energy dissipation. J Waterw Port Coast Ocean Eng ASCE 110:67–79

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • de Boer GJ, van Dongeren AR, Winterwerp JC (2009) Wave damping by fluid mud, Research Report No. Z4700/ 1200266.007, Deltares, 34p

  • De Wit PJ (1995) Liquefaction of cohesive sediment by waves. PhD dissertation, Delft University of Technology, The Netherlands

  • Gade HG (1958) Effects of a non-rigid, impermeable bottom on plane surface waves in shallow water. J Mar Res 156(2):61–82

    Google Scholar 

  • Goda Y (2000) Random seas and design of maritime structures. World Scientific Publishing Co., p 443

  • Hsu WY, Hwung HH, Hsu TJ, Torres-Freyermuth A, Yang RY (2013) An experimental and numerical investigation on wave-mud interactions. J Geophys Res Oceans, 118, doi: 10.1002/jgrc.20103

  • Isobe MTN, Huynh, Watanabe A (1992) A study on mud mass transport under waves based on an empirical rheology model. Proc. 23rd Intl. Conf. Coastal Engnrg., Venice, 3093–3106

  • Jain M, Mehta AJ (2009) Role of basic rheological models in determination of wave attenuation over muddy seabeds. Cont Shelf Res 29(3):642–651

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kaihatu JM, Sheremet A, Holland KT (2007) A model for the propagation of nonlinear surface waves over viscous muds. Coast Eng 54(10):752–764

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kirby JT, Dalrymple RA (1983) A parabolic equation for the combined refraction-diffraction of Stokes waves by mildly varying topography. J Fluid Mech 136:543–566

    Google Scholar 

  • Kirby JT, Dalrymple RA (1986) Modeling waves in surf zones and around islands. J Waterw Port Coast Ocean Eng ASCE 112:78–93

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kranenburg WM, Winterwerp JC, de Boer GJ, Cornelisse JM, Zijlema M (2011) SWAN-mud, an engineering model for mud-induced wave-damping. J Hydraul Eng. doi:10.1061/(ASCE)HY.1943-7900.0000370

    Google Scholar 

  • Maa P-Y (1986) Erosion of soft mud by waves. Ph.D. dissertation, University of Florida, Gainesville, FL. 32611, 276p

  • Maa JP-Y, Mehta AJ (1988) Soft mud properties. J Waterw Port Coast Ocean Eng 114(6):765–769

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • MacPherson H (1980) The attenuation of water waves over a non-rigid bed. J Fluid Mech 97(4):721–742

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Mei CC, Liu K-F (1987) A Bingham-plastic model for a muddy seabed under long waves. J Geophys Res 92(C13):14581–14594

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ng CO (2000) Water waves over a muddy bed: a two-layer Stokes’ boundary layer model. Coast Eng 40(3):221–242

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Rodriguez HN, Mehta AJ (2001) Modelling of muddy coast response to waves. J Coast Res SI21:132–148

    Google Scholar 

  • Ross MA, Mehta AJ (1990) Fluidization of soft estuarine mud by waves. In: Bennett RH (ed) The microstructure of fine grained sediments: from mud to shale. Springer, New York, pp 185–191

    Google Scholar 

  • Sakakiyama T, Bijker EW (1989) Mass transport velocity in mud layer due to progressive waves. J Waterw Port Coast Ocean Eng ASCE 115(5):614–633

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Samsami F, Soltanpour M (2011) Transformation of wave spectra on muddy beds. 11th International Conference on Cohesive Sediment Transport, INTERCOH11, Shanghai, China, book of abstracts, pp. 195–196

  • Shen D (1993) Study on mud mass transport and topography change of muddy bottom due to waves, Ph.D. dissertation, The University of Tokyo, 167 p

  • Sheremet A, Stone GW (2003) Observations of nearshore wave dissipation over mud sea beds. J Geophys Res 108(C11):3357. doi:10.1029/2003JC001885

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Sheremet A, Mehta AJ, Liu B, Stone GW (2005) Wave-sediment interaction on muddy inner shelf during Hurricane Claudette. Estuar Coast Shelf Sci 63:225–233

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Shibayama T, An NN (1993) A visco-elastic-plastic model for wave-mud interaction. Coast Eng Jpn 36(1):67–89

    Google Scholar 

  • Soltanpour M, Shibayama T, Noma T (2003) Cross-shore mud transport and beach deformation model. Coast Eng J 45(3):363–387

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Soltanpour M, Oveisy A, Shibayama T (2008) Numerical modeling of wave transformation on muddy coasts. Coast Eng J JSCE 50(2):143–160

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Tsuruya H, Nakano S, Takahama J (1987) Interaction between surface waves and a multi-layered mud bed. Rep Port Harbor Res Inst Minist Transp Jpn 26(5):138–173

    Google Scholar 

  • Wells JT, Kemp GP (1986) Interaction of surface waves and cohesive sediments: field observations and geologic significance. In: Mehta AJ (ed) Estuarine cohesive sediment dynamics. Springer, New York, pp 43–65

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  • Winterwerp JC, de Graaff RF, Groeneweg J, Luyendijk AP (2007) Modelling of wave damping at Guyana mud coast. Coast Eng 54:249–261

    Article  Google Scholar 

Download references

Acknowledgments

The research reported in this paper is supported in part by the Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research from the Japan Society for the Promotion of Science (No. B-22404011). The authors are grateful to Dr. Hiroshi Takagi and Ms. Megumi Ogawa, former graduates of Yokohama National University, for their valuable collaboration in conducting wave basin experiments and Dr. Farzin Samsami, former graduate of K. N. Toosi University of Technology, for sharing the rheological data. Moreover, we would like to acknowledge two anonymous reviewers for their many useful comments and supervisions.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Civil Engineering Department, K. N. Toosi University of Technology, No. 1346, Vali-Asr St., Tehran, 1996715433, Iran

    Mohsen Soltanpour

  2. Institute of Geophysics, University of Tehran, North Kargar Ave., P.O. Box 14155-6466, Tehran, 1439951113, Iran

    S. Abbas Haghshenas

  3. Waseda University, Tokyo, Japan

    Tomoya Shibayama

Authors
  1. Mohsen Soltanpour
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  2. S. Abbas Haghshenas
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  3. Tomoya Shibayama
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Corresponding author

Correspondence to S. Abbas Haghshenas.

Additional information

Responsible Editor: Han Winterwerp

This article is part of the Topical Collection on the 11th International Conference on Cohesive Sediment Transport

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this article

Soltanpour, M., Haghshenas, S.A. & Shibayama, T. A two-dimensional experimental-numerical approach to investigate wave transformation over muddy beds. Ocean Dynamics 65, 295–310 (2015). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-014-0797-3

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-014-0797-3

Keywords

Search

Navigation