Abstract
More and more non-Western brands and designers entering the fashion world introducing new values, narratives and aesthetics into a dominant Western Fashion discourse deeply intertwined with notions of conceptualism, modernism and postmodernism. In a moment of history where we are facing a failing fashion system, these new voices are introducing new values and new imaginations that try to transform the system into a more inclusive, fair and decentred discipline. Also, on an academic level transnational and decolonial theories are proposing new and fresh lenses on how to critically re-think the Eurocentric Fashion system using new terminologies as de-linking, precedence and aesthesis and the pluri-versal. Do these new perspectives give us the tools to redefine and modify the Western definitions of fashion into a more inclusive and alternative system?
This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Similar content being viewed by others
Notes
- 1.
Being a member of the board of State of Fashion I was closely involved in the strategy and the selection of topics and curatorial teams of Ways of Caring 2022.
References
Appadurai A (1996) Modernity at large. University of Minnesota Press, Minneapolis
Bourriaud N (2009) The Radicant. Sternberg Press, New York
Bush O (2020) The Pscychopolitics of fashion. Conflict and courage under the current state of fashion, London: Bloomsbury
Calefato P (2019) Fashionscapes. In: Geczy A, Karaminas V (eds) The End of Fashion. Bloomsbury, London, pp 31–47
Geczy A, Karaminas V (2016) Walter benjamin: fashion, modernity and the city street. In: Rocamora A, Smelik A (eds) Thinking through fashion, pp 201–231
Jansen A, Craik J (2016) Introduction. In: Jansen A, Craik J (ed) Modern fashion traditions. Negotiating tradition and modernity through fashion, London: Bloomsbury, pp1–22
Jansen A (2020) Fashion and the Phantasmagoria of modernity. Fashion Theory, vol 24(6):1–24. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2020.1802098
Lipovetsky G (1994) The empire of fashion: dressing modern democracy. Princeton University Press, Princeton, NJ
Lipovetsky G (2021) Le Sacre de L’authenticite. Gallimard
Mignolo W (2007) Delinking the rhetoric of modernity, the logic of coloniality and the grammar of de-coloniality. Cultural Studies 21(2–3):449–514. https://doi.org/10.1080/09502380601162647
Mignolo W, Vasquez R (2013) Decolonial AestheSis: colonial wounds/Decolonial Healing—social text, pp 16–18. https://socialtextjournal.org/periscope_article/decolonial-aesthesis-colonial-woundsdecolonial-healings
Quijana A (2010) Coloniality and modernity/rationality. In: Walter D (ed) Globalization and the Decolonial Option. Routledge, Mignolo and Arturo Escobar. New York, pp 22–32
Riegel M, Skov L (2011) Fashion theory, vol 15 Issue 2, Special Issue (guest ed. L. Skov and M. Riegels Melchior), 133–135
Said E (1977) Orientalism. Random House, New York
Simmel G (1904) Fashion, reprinted in the American J Sociol (1957), 62(6):541–558
Skov L (2011) Dreams of small nations in a polycentric fashion world. Fashion Theory Vol 15 Issue 2, Special Issue (guest ed. L. Skov and M. Riegels Melchior), 15:2, pp 137–152
Steele V (2008) Paris fashion, New York: Oxford 1998
Teunissen J (1990) Mode in Beweging. Amsterdam NFM
Teunissen J (2005) Global fashion/local tradition: on the globalisation of fashion. In: Brand J, Teunissen (eds), Global fashion, local tradition: on the globalisation of fashion, Arnhem: Terra, pp 8–23
Teunissen J (2011) Deconstructing belgian and dutch fashion dreams: from global trends to local crafts. Fashion Theory, 15:2, Special Issue (guest ed. L. Skov and M. Riegels Melchior), pp 157–77
Teunissen J (2014) The future of fashion is now: longing for a future society. In: Teunissen J, Nefkens H, Arts J, von der Voet H (eds), The future of fashion is now, Rotterdam: Boijmans, pp 12–72
Teunissen J (2017)‘Clogs on high heels: dutch cultural heritage and fashion. In: Smelik A (ed) Delft Bleu, to Denim Blue. I.B Taurus, pp 30–50
Teunissen J (2018) State of Fashion: Searching for the New Luxury, virtual exhibition catalogue, https://issuu.com/stateoffashion/docs/stof_072018_catalogus_ nteractive. Accessed 3 June 2021
Teunissen J (2022) The transformative power of practice-based fashion research. In: Titton M, Gaugele E (eds) Fashion knowledge. Wenen, pp 15–26. Forthcoming 2024
Vasquez R (2018) The Museum, Decoloniality and the end of the contemporary. In: Lijster T (ed) The Future of the New, Artistic Innovation
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2023 The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd.
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Teunissen, J. (2023). Towards an Inclusive Fashion System. In: Gardetti, M.Á., Larios-Francia, R.P. (eds) Sustainability Challenges in the Fashion Industry. Sustainable Textiles: Production, Processing, Manufacturing & Chemistry. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-99-0349-8_4
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-99-0349-8_4
Published:
Publisher Name: Springer, Singapore
Print ISBN: 978-981-99-0348-1
Online ISBN: 978-981-99-0349-8
eBook Packages: Earth and Environmental ScienceEarth and Environmental Science (R0)