Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

Sustainable Dyeing with Synthetic Dyes

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing

Part of the book series: Textile Science and Clothing Technology ((TSCT))

Abstract

Dyers used skill and logic when they abandoned natural dyes in favor of synthetic dyes. Synthetic dyes were more reliable in strength and shade, did not contain insoluble impurities, or generate spent waste materials that required disposal. They largely avoided the need for mordants, and provided fast bright shades and, for the first time, fast black colors. They could be mixed to allow accurate color matching, and were applied in simpler processes that used far less water and energy. Synthetic dyes have continued to dominate the coloration of textiles while the volume of fiber used each year is now 25 times larger, of which 60 % or more is synthetic. Concern for the environment led to an examination of dyes and dyeing processes: a few synthetic dyes of potential toxicity were earmarked, and have subsequently disappeared from any dyehouse behaving responsibly, and that wishes to do business with major retailers. Recently, ‘sustainability’ and the erroneous assumptions that natural = harmless, and synthetic = toxic has prompted a voluminous research literature that (re)examines natural dyes. The literature ignores the factors that led originally to their abandonment. In addition, natural dyes cannot produce the amount of colorant required to dye the amounts of fiber produced each year. In contrast, synthetic dyes of all classes and the processes used to apply them become ever more efficient and clean, and offer safe and cost-effective coloration for the world’s textiles.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Log in via an institution
Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 84.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 129.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 109.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

References

  1. United Nations World Commission on Environment and Development (1987) Our common future. Oxford University Press, Oxford

    Google Scholar 

  2. Anonymous (2010) Living planet report. World Wild Life Fund Global. http://wwf.panda.org/about_our_earth/all_publications/living_planet_report/from. Accessed 28 Feb 2014

  3. Bide M (2013) Sustainability, a big picture. AATCC Rev 13(4):41–46

    Google Scholar 

  4. Anon (2011) The lifecycle inventory and lifecycle assessment of cotton fiber & fabric. http://cottontoday.cottoninc.com/Life-Cycle-Assessment/. Accessed 28 Feb 2014

  5. Simpson P (2012) Global trends in fiber prices, production and consumption. Text Outlook Int 159:45–70

    Google Scholar 

  6. Brunello F (1973) The art of dyeing in the history of mankind. Neri Pozza, Venice

    Google Scholar 

  7. Cardon D (2007) Natural dyes: sources traditions and science. Archetype, London

    Google Scholar 

  8. Penington J (1790) Chemical and economical essays. Joseph James, Philadelphia

    Google Scholar 

  9. Garfield S (2002) Mauve: how one man invented a color that changed the world. Norton, London

    Google Scholar 

  10. Travis A (1993) The rainbow makers: the origins of the synthetic dyestuffs industry in western Europe. Lehigh University Press, Pennsylvania

    Google Scholar 

  11. Dunster S (1845-8) Unpublished original printer’s receipt book. R I Hist Soc 6:36–65

    Google Scholar 

  12. An experienced dyer (1846) A practical treatise on dyeing and calico printing. Harper, New York, p 304–305

    Google Scholar 

  13. Matthews JM (1921) The application of dyestuffs. Wiley, New York, pp 366–372

    Google Scholar 

  14. Cardon D (2007) Natural dyes: sources traditions and science. Archetype Publications, London, p 14

    Google Scholar 

  15. Zollinger H (2003) Color chemistry: synthesis, properties, and applications of organic dyes and pigments, analysis, ecology, and toxicology of colorants. Wiley, New York, pp 576–592

    Google Scholar 

  16. Anon (2014) MSDS for sodium chloride. http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/product/sial/s9888?lang=en&region=US. Accessed 28 Feb 2014

  17. Anon (2014) MSDS for alizarin. http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/product/sial/122777?lang=en&region=US. Accessed 28 Feb 2014

  18. Hunger K (2003) Industrial dyes: chemistry, properties, applications, Chapter 8, Health and safety aspects. Wiley-VCH, Weinheim, p 625–641

    Google Scholar 

  19. Anonymous (1996) German ban of use of certain azo compounds in some consumer goods. ETAD information notice no. 6. Text Chem Colorist 28(4):11–13

    Google Scholar 

  20. Nike Considered Chemistry Team (2011) Nike restricted substances list and sustainability guidance. Nike, Inc. http://www.nikeresponsibility.com/report/uploads/files/NIKE_INC_Restricted_Substances_Guidance_Aug_2011.pdf. Accessed 28 Feb 2014

  21. Anonymous (2013) Restricted Substances Lists. American Apparel & Footwear Association. https://www.wewear.org/industry-resources/restricted-substances-list/. Accessed 28 Feb 2014

  22. Anonymous (2013) ECP module 1: restricted substance. Marks & Spencer. list. http://corporate.marksandspencer.com/documents/how_we_do_business/restrictedsubstancelist_may_2013.pdf. Accessed 28 Feb 2014

  23. International Association for Research and Testing in the Field of Textile Ecology (OEKO-TEX (2014) limit values and fastness. https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/manufacturers/test_criteria/test_criteria.html. Accessed 28 Feb 2014

  24. Anonymous (2011) Global organic textile standard. International Working Group. http://www.global-standard.org/images/stories/gots-version3_01march2011.pdf. Accessed 28 Feb 2014

  25. United States Environmental Protection Agency (1979) Development document for effluent limitation guidelines and standards for the textile mills point source category. EPA440/1-79/022b US Government Printing Office, Washington

    Google Scholar 

  26. Matthews JM (1921) The application of dyestuffs. Wiley, New York, p 365

    Google Scholar 

  27. Knecht E, Fothergill JB (1952) The principles and practice of textile printing, 4th edn. Griffin, London, pp 208–265 and 447–489

    Google Scholar 

  28. O’Neill C (1869) A dictionary of dyeing and calico printing. Baird, Philadelphia, pp 213–226

    Google Scholar 

  29. Cardon D (2007) Natural dyes: sources traditions and science. Archetype Publications, London, p 109

    Google Scholar 

  30. Glover B (1995) Are natural colorants good for your health? Are synthetic ones better? Tex Chem Col 27(4):17

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  31. Anonymous (2013) Plastic made from straw and nut shells. NEC Corporation http://www.nec.com/global/environment/featured/bioplastics2/contents2.html. Accessed 28 Feb 2014

  32. Schmidt S, Padukone N (1997) Production of lactic acid from wastepaper as a cellulosic feedstock. J Ind Microbiol Biotechnol 18:10–14

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  33. Bomgardner M (2012) A summer of start ups for biobased chemicals. Chem Eng News 90(38):10–15

    Google Scholar 

  34. Anonymous (1996) Best management practices for pollution prevention in the textile industry. In: Publication EPA/625/R-96/004, United States Environmental Protection Agency, Washington

    Google Scholar 

  35. Schlaeppi F (1998) Optimizing textile wet processes to reduce environmental impact. Text Chem Colorist 30(4):19–26

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  36. Garvin A (2005) Confidence in textiles: Oeko-Tex standard 100. Ind Fabr Prod Rev 90(11):8

    Google Scholar 

  37. Kwong A (2005) An overview of eco-labeling. AATCC Rev 5(3):29–31

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  38. The Colour Index International, Society of Dyers and Colourists and American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. http://www.colour-index.com/. Accessed 28 Feb 2014

  39. Bide M et al (2004) Dye application and analysis. Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, 6th on-line edition. http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/cgi-bin/mrwhome/104554789/HOME. Accessed 30 Nov 2013

  40. Aspland JR (1997) Textile dyeing and coloration. AATCC, North Carolina

    Google Scholar 

  41. Broadbent A (2001) Basic principles of textile coloration. Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford

    Google Scholar 

  42. Bide M (2007) Environmentally responsible application of textile dyes. In: Christie RM (ed) Environmental aspects of textile dyeing. Woodhead, Cambridge, p 74–92

    Google Scholar 

  43. Finnie G (1991) Blind dyeing—theory in practice. J Soc Dyers Colour 107(5/6):197

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  44. Holme I (1993) Blind dyeing—the way ahead. Wool Rec 152(3582):43

    Google Scholar 

  45. Anonymous (2004) Right first time technologies. Int Dyer 189(8):25–26

    Google Scholar 

  46. Koksal G, Smith W, Smith CB (1992) System analysis of textile operations—a modern approach for meeting customer requirements. Text Chem Colorist 24(10):30

    Google Scholar 

  47. Anonymous (2013) AATCC Technical Manual, AATCC, Research Triangle Park, NC

    Google Scholar 

  48. Welters L, Bide M (1995) AATCC’s little black book: printing delaines in the 1850s. Text Chem Colorist 27(6):17–23

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  49. Matthews JM (1921) The application of dyestuffs. Wiley, New York, p 507

    Google Scholar 

  50. O’Neill C (1869) A dictionary of dyeing and calico printing. Baird, Philadelphia, p 65–66

    Google Scholar 

  51. Kamel MM, Youssef BM, Shokry GM (1999) Dyeing of cationized cotton—part 2: direct dyes. Am Dyestuff Rep 88(6):28–32

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  52. Draper SL, Beck KR, Smith CB, Hauser PJ (2002) Characterization of the dyeing behavior of cationic cotton with acid dyes. Proceedings, AATCC international conference & exhibition, Charlotte, NC, 1–4 October 2002, pp 245–254

    Google Scholar 

  53. Hauser PJ, Tabbe AH (2002) Dyeing cationic cotton with fiber reactive dyes: effect of reactive chemistries. AATCC Rev 2(5):36–39

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  54. Lewis DM, Lei XP (1991) New methods for improving the dyeability of cellulose fibers with reactive dyes. J Soc Dyers Colour 107(3):102

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  55. Bide M, Callaghan C (in preparation) The dyeing of cationized cotton with indigo

    Google Scholar 

  56. Freeman HS (2004) Color yes, toxicity no: systematic approaches to meeting this challenge. Proceedings, AATCC annual international conference & exhibition, Greenville, SC, 23–27 September 2004, pp 174–183

    Google Scholar 

  57. Bide MJ, Wang X (1995) Levelness in reused direct dyebaths. Am Dyestuff Rep 84(11):13

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  58. Long L (1993) The reuse of dyebaths for direct dyes on cotton. Book of Papers, AATCC International Conference & Exhibition, Montreal 3-6 October 1993, p 61

    Google Scholar 

  59. Taraporewala KS, Ramakrishnan R (2001) Ecofriendly alternatives to reducing agents used for sulphur dyeing on cellulose and polyester/cellulose blends—part 2. Man-Made Text India 44(11):428–436

    Google Scholar 

  60. Annen O (1998) Ecological dyeing with sulphur dyes. Melliand Textilberichte Int Text Rep 79(10):752–755

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  61. Bechtold T, Burtscher E, Turcanu A (1998) Continuous sulfur dyeing without reducing agents: fully reduced sulfur black 1 by cathodic reduction. Text Chem Colorist 30(8):72–77

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  62. Aspland JR (1997) Textile dyeing and coloration. AATCC, North Carolina, p 87

    Google Scholar 

  63. Chakraborty JN, Chavan RB (2005) Continuous vat dyeing of cotton at room temperature using iron(II)salt complexes. Melliand Int 11(1):46–49

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  64. Roessler A, Jin X (2003) State of the art technologies and new electrochemical methods for the reduction of vat dyes. Dyes Pigm 59(3):223–235

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  65. Bechtold T, Burtscher E, Turcanu A, Berktold F (2000) Electrochemistry in the dyeing of vat and sulphur dyes. Melliand Textilberichte Int Text Rep 81(3):195–198

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  66. Girod K, Galafassi P (2004) The genuine low salt reactive days. Colourage 51(7):100–104

    Google Scholar 

  67. Kitamura S, Washimi T, Yamamoto K (1998) Low salt dyeing using fiber reactive dyes on cotton. Book of papers, AATCC international conference & exhibition, Philadelphia, 22–25 September, pp 406–413

    Google Scholar 

  68. Anonymous (1992) Open width pad-batch dyeing of cotton fabrics. Cotton Incorporated Technical Bulletin Issue TS 306-R

    Google Scholar 

  69. Bradbury MJ, Collishaw PS, Moorhouse S (2001) Smart rinsing: a step change in reactive dye application technology. AATCC Rev 1(11):45–49

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  70. Haas J, Koenemund B, Vogt U (2000) New and better way to wash-off reactive dyestuffs. Melliand Textilberichte Int Text Rep 81(10):847–848

    Google Scholar 

  71. Perkins W, Walsh WK, Reed IE, Namboodri CG (1996) A demonstration of reuse of spent dyebath water following color removal with ozone. Text Chem Colorist 28(1):31–37

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  72. Welham AC (1986) Advances in the afterchrome dyeing of wool. J Soc Dyers Colour 102(4):126–131

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  73. Thomas H, Kaufmann R et al (1992) Chromium in the effluent, analytical determination, and characterization of influencing factors. In: After chrome dyeing of wool, part 1. J Soc Dyers Colour 108(4):17

    Google Scholar 

  74. Lewis DM, Yan G (1995) Chrome dyeing using anionic trivalent chromium complexes as mordants. J Soc Dyers Colour 111(10):316–323

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  75. Sokolowska-Gajda J, Freeman HS, Reife A et al (1994) Iron complexes for protein and polyamide fibers—part 1: iron complexes for protein and polyamide fibers. Text Res J 64(7):388

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  76. Bardole HA, Freeman HS, Reife A et al (1998) Iron salts in the post-metallization of mordant dyes. Text Res J 68(2):141–149

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  77. Hannemann K, Flensberg H (1997) Reactive Dyes for wool—an alternative to after chrome dyes. Melliand Int 1:32–34

    Google Scholar 

  78. Burkinshaw SM, Bahojb-Allafan B (2003) The development of a metal-free, tannic acid-based after treatment for nylon 6,6 dyed with acid dyes, part 1: initial studies’. Dyes Pigm 58(3):205–218

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  79. Blackburn RS, Burkinshaw SM (2000) After treatment of acid dyes on conventional nylon 6,6 with a commercial syntan/cation system—part 3: improvements to the Fixogene AC system. J Soc Dyers Colour 116(1):3–9

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  80. Burkinshaw SM, Lagonika K, Marfell DJ (2003) Sulphur dyes on nylon 6,6—part 1: the effects of temperature and pH on dyeing. Dyes Pigm 56(3):251–259

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  81. Burkinshaw SM, Son YA, Bide MJ (2001) The application of heterobifunctional reactive dyes to nylon 6,6: process modifications to achieve high efficiencies. Dyes Pigm 48(3):245–251

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  82. Leaver AT, Glover B, Leadbetter PW (1992) Recent advances in disperse dye development and applications. Text Chem Colorist 24(1):18

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  83. Chambers V (2004) A soft alkaline dyeing process. AATCC Rev 4(7):14–16

    Google Scholar 

  84. Eren HA, Anis P (2005) Alkaline polyester dyeing and reductive clearing: effectiveness and environmental impact. AATCC Rev 5(2):21–25

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  85. Walles F (2002) Akali dyeing process for polyester fibers’. Int Text Bull 48(4):69–74

    Google Scholar 

  86. Anonymous (2014) Nike opens waterless dyeing facility. Int Dyer 1:4

    Google Scholar 

  87. Shore J (1998) Blends dyeing. Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford

    Google Scholar 

  88. Gatewood B, Lattie R, Lewis A, Robinson A, Sarmadi M (1995) Evaluation of after treatments for reusing reactive dyes. Book of papers, National technical conference of AATCC, Atlanta, 8–11 October 1995, p 9–16

    Google Scholar 

  89. Latham FR (1992) Dyeing cotton and polyester/cotton blends with reactive and disperse dyes in short-liquor jets. J Soc Dyers Colour 108(3):121

    Google Scholar 

  90. Yang Y, Li S (2000) One-step dyeing of polyester/cotton with disperse/reactive dyes’. Text Chem Colorist Am Dyestuff Rep 32(3):38–45

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  91. Bone J (2001) Saving time in exhaust dyeing of polyester/cotton. AATCC Rev 1(5):19–21

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  92. Moorhouse HD (1996) Continuous dyeing of polyester-cellulosic blends: development and methods. RevProg Color 26:20–28

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  93. Pashley J (1993) Dyeing and finishing polyester/cotton—the commercial approach. J Soc Dyers Colour 109(12):379

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Department of Textiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design, University of Rhode Island, Kingston, RI, USA

    Martin Bide

Authors
  1. Martin Bide
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Martin Bide .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

  1. SGS Hong Kong Limited,, Eco-design Consultant, Global Sustainability Services, Hong Kong,Hong Kong SAR, China

    Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2014 Springer Science+Business Media Singapore

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

Bide, M. (2014). Sustainable Dyeing with Synthetic Dyes. In: Muthu, S. (eds) Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing. Textile Science and Clothing Technology. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-287-065-0_3

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-287-065-0_3

  • Published:

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Singapore

  • Print ISBN: 978-981-287-064-3

  • Online ISBN: 978-981-287-065-0

  • eBook Packages: EngineeringEngineering (R0)

Publish with us

Policies and ethics

Search

Navigation