Skip to main content

As African Textile and Fashion Grow and Go Global, How Can We Make Sure It Remain Sustainable?

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Sustainable Approaches in Textiles and Fashion

Abstract

Favored by various factors such as the influence of the millennials, social media, the entertainment industry, the traditional African fabrics have gained a lot in influence in recent years in the fashion industry. These traditional textiles, are distinguished by the handmade technique, and the use of natural dyeing. They are manufactured by small communities of artisans with centennial know-how. In the face of globalization and pressure from the transition to a larger scale production, several questions are raised: is it possible to maintain these sustainable techniques as they are? Can the circular economy values found in the producing communities be sustained? Through our exploratory research, we have proceeded to a systematic review of the literature, generated a theoretical framework through which we analyzed the actions of local and international actors in the fashion industry. From this, emerged recommendations such as promotion of fair trade practices, protection and empowerment of artisans communities, and other hypotheses that will need to be tested through further research.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 79.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 99.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 139.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

References

  1. Acquaye R (2018) Exploring Indigenous West African fabric design in the context of contemporary global commercial production. University of Southampton, s.l

    Google Scholar 

  2. ADB (2020) Investing in creative industries: fashionomics. [En ligne]. Available at: https://www.afdb.org/fileadmin/uploads/afdb/Documents/Generic-Documents/Fashionomics_creative_industries_executive_summary_brochure.pdf. Accessed 16 Oct 2021

  3. Aero MO, Kalilu RO (2013) Origin of and visual semiotics in Yoruba textile of Adire. Art and Design Stud 12:2–224

    Google Scholar 

  4. AFP (2020). Paris (AFP). Imane Ayissi, couturier du patrimoine africain, sauf le wax [En ligne]. Available at: https://www.lecourriercauchois.fr/actualite-225207-paris-afp-imane-ayissi-couturier-du-patrimoine-africain-sauf-le-wax. Accès le 16 Oct 2021

  5. Aziz M, Alexandre-Leclair L., Salloum C (2019) The fashion industry in Africa: a global vision of the sector. Dans: Moreno-Gavara C, Jimenez-Zarco AI (éds) Sustainable fashion empowering African women entrepreneurs in fashion industry. s.l.:s.n

    Google Scholar 

  6. Barton W (2007) African Mud Cloth. The Bogolanfini art tradition of Gneli Traoré of Mali (review). Afr Stud Rev 50:210–211. https://doi.org/10.1353/arw.2005.0091

  7. Bell S, Morse S (2013) Measuring sustainability: learning from doing. Routledge, New York

    Book  Google Scholar 

  8. Boateng B (2011) The copyright thing doesn't work here. Adinkra and Kente Cloth and Intellectual Property in Ghana. University of Minnesota Press, Minneapolis

    Google Scholar 

  9. Brooks X (2016) Cultural appropriation. Mix Mag 45:17.

    Google Scholar 

  10. Buchloh B (2009) Parody and Appropriation in Francis Picabia, Pop and Sigmar Polke. Dans: Appropriation. Whitechapel Gallery Ltd., London, p 178

    Google Scholar 

  11. Chutel L, Lijadu K (2018) What happens to African designers when Beyonce and other stars wear your clothes [Online]. Available at: https://qz.com/africa/1382554/beyonce-theresa-may-michelle-obama-get-into-african-fashion/. Accessed 14 Oct 2021

  12. Claudio D, Nieto DV, Davis-Peccoud J, Capellini M (2021) LuxCo 2030: a vision of sustainable luxury. Bain & Company Inc., s.l

    Google Scholar 

  13. Contemporary African Art (2016) Kente Cloth [En ligne]. Available at: https://www.contemporary-african-art.com/kente-cloth.html. Accessed 15 Oct 2021

  14. Gott S, Loughran K (2010) Contemporary African fashion. Indiana University Press, s.l

    Google Scholar 

  15. Imperato PJ, Shamir M (1970) Bokolanfini: Mudcloth of the Bamana of Mali. Afr Arts 3(4):32–42

    Google Scholar 

  16. Lablaco (2020). Year Zero. Circular Fashion Report 2020 [En ligne]. Available at: https://docsend.com/view/63avn4jc3ztb952w. Access 14 Oct 2021

  17. Loughran K (2009) The idea of Africa in European high fashion: global dialogues. Fash Theory 13(12):243–272

    Article  Google Scholar 

  18. Luke-Boone R (2001) African fabrics. Krause, Lola

    Google Scholar 

  19. Muthu SS (2019) Fast fashion, fashion brands and sustainable consumption. Springer Singapore, Singapore

    Google Scholar 

  20. Nielsen (2018) Was 2018 the year of the influential sustainable consumer? [En ligne]. Available at: https://nielseniq.com/global/en/insights/analysis/2018/was-2018-the-year-of-the-influential-sustainable-consumer/. Accessed in October 2021

  21. Odiboh F (2005). Is still largely orchestrated by people Leopold Senghor (1967). Nigerian J of Art 4(1–2):45

    Google Scholar 

  22. Okyere M, Denoncourt J (2021) Protecting Ghana’s intellectual property rights in Kente textiles: the case for geographical indications. J Intellect Prop Law Pract 16(4–5):415–425

    Google Scholar 

  23. Polakoff C (1982) African textiles and dyeing techniques. Routledge & Kegan Paul, London

    Google Scholar 

  24. Renne EP (2020) Reinterpreting Adire cloth in Northern Nigeria. Textile Hist, 1–26

    Google Scholar 

  25. Rovine VL (2015) African fashion global style: histories, innovations, and ideas you can wear. Indiana University Press, Bloomington and Indianapolis

    Google Scholar 

  26. Rovine V (1997) Bogolanfini in Bamako. Afr Arts 30(1):40–55

    Google Scholar 

  27. Saheed ZS (2013) Adire textile: a cultural heritage and entrepreneurial craft in Egbaland, Nigeria. Int J Small Bus Entrep Res 1(1):11–18

    Google Scholar 

  28. Scafidi S (2005) Who owns culture? Appropriation and authenticity in American law. Rutgers University Press, New Jersey

    Google Scholar 

  29. Shivers ND (2011) Fashion as performance: influencing future trends and building new audiences. Dans: Fashion forward. Brill, s.l, pp 405–417

    Google Scholar 

  30. Smith J (2018) The revolutionary power of Black Panther [Online]. Available at: https://time.com/black-panther/. Accessed 14 Oct 2021

  31. Tetteh B (2020) Beyond the year of return: Africa and the diaspora must forge closer ties [Online]. Available at: https://www.un.org/africarenewal/magazine/september-2020/beyond-year-return-africa-and-diaspora-must-forge-closer-ties. Accessed on 14 Oct 2021

  32. Textile Exchange (2020). 2025 sustainable cotton challenge. Second Annual report 2020, s.l.: TextileExchange.org

    Google Scholar 

  33. Toerien E (2003) Mud cloth from Mali: its making and use. J Family Ecol Consum Sci/Tydskrif vir Gesinsekologie en Verbruikerswetenskappe 31. https://doi.org/10.4314/jfecs.v31i1.52840.

  34. Tomori S (2011) The impact of Adire on the cultural heritage and economic growth of Ogun state. Unpublished thesis of the Achievers University, Owo

    Google Scholar 

  35. Vettorello PA (2021) Louis Vuitton and African textiles: the case of Kente [En ligne]. Available at: https://www.pierreantoinev.com/kenteandlouisvuitton. Accès le 16 Oct 2021

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Ivan Coste-Manière .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2022 The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd.

About this chapter

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this chapter

Gaulithy, MA., Ngomedje, C.N., Bieni, P., Coste-Manière, I. (2022). As African Textile and Fashion Grow and Go Global, How Can We Make Sure It Remain Sustainable?. In: Muthu, S.S. (eds) Sustainable Approaches in Textiles and Fashion. Sustainable Textiles: Production, Processing, Manufacturing & Chemistry. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-19-0874-3_12

Download citation

Publish with us

Policies and ethics