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The Influence of Starch Desizing on Thermal Properties of Traditional Fabrics in Anatolia

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Handloom Sustainability and Culture

Abstract

In this book chapter, three traditional fabrics in Anatolia, namely, Feretiko, Ayancik linen and Burumcuk fabric were analysed in terms of thermal comfort properties. The composition of these fabrics was 50% hemp–50% cotton Feretiko, 50% linen–50% cotton Ayancik linen and 100% cotton Burumcuk. In order to prevent abrasion during the production of these fabrics, cotton yarns used as warp yarns were treated with traditional sizing recipes. For all fabrics, in traditional methods, there is no starch desizing process after weaving. In order to determine the effect of starch desizing on thermal properties of these traditional fabrics, the thermal tests were conducted before and after enzymatic desizing process. The test results of thermal conductivity, thermal absorptivity, thermal resistance, air permeability as well as clothing insulation were presented. Regarding the obtained results, the contact angle values of all fabrics were lower after desizing process, as it was expected. With respect to the thermal resistance values, Ayancik linen had the greatest thermal resistance value as well as fabric thickness value after desizing. Feretiko had the greatest air permeability results for both states, before and after desizing, due to its high porosity with the lowest fabric thickness, fabric weight as well as the yarn number.

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Acknowledgements

The authors gratefully acknowledge the funding by the project UID/CTM/00264/2019 of 2C2T – Centro de Ciência e Tecnologia Têxtil, funded by National Founds through FCT/MCTES. Derya Tama thanks FCT for fellowship 2C2T-BPD-08-2017.

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Faculty of Architect and Design, Fashion Design Department, Selçuk University, Konya, Turkey

    Meral Isler

  2. Textile Engineering Department, Ege University, Bornova, Izmir, Turkey

    Derya Tama Birkocak

  3. Textile Engineering Department, University of Minho, Campus de Azurem, Guimarães, Portugal

    Maria Josè Abreu

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  1. Meral Isler
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  2. Derya Tama Birkocak
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Correspondence to Meral Isler .

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  1. Center for Studies on Sustainable Luxury, Buenos Aires, Argentina

    Miguel Ángel Gardetti

  2. SgT Group and API, Hong Kong, Kowloon, Hong Kong

    Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu

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Isler, M., Tama Birkocak, D., Abreu, M.J. (2021). The Influence of Starch Desizing on Thermal Properties of Traditional Fabrics in Anatolia. In: Gardetti, M.Á., Muthu, S.S. (eds) Handloom Sustainability and Culture. Sustainable Textiles: Production, Processing, Manufacturing & Chemistry. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-16-5967-6_9

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