Skip to main content

Traceability and Transparency: A Way Forward for SDG 12 in the Textile and Clothing Industry

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
The UN Sustainable Development Goals for the Textile and Fashion Industry

Part of the book series: Textile Science and Clothing Technology ((TSCT))

Abstract

Sustainable Development Goal, SDG, 12 calls for a profound business transformation towards sustainable consumption and production patterns. This involves the entire value chain from a holistic perspective, from raw material to consumer, both globally and locally. Target 12.8 specifically identifies the need for people everywhere to ‘have the relevant information and awareness for sustainable development and lifestyles in harmony with nature’. To enable this shift, industry practitioners and academics have recognised traceability as the necessary first step for informed decision-making. Traceability, according to the International Organization for Standardization, ISO, refers to the ‘ability to identify and trace the history, distribution, location, and application of products, parts, materials, and services’. Full implementation of traceability systems will allow industry partners to have access to reliable, comprehensive data of their business activities as well as their related environmental and social impact. Once this information is traced and available for firms, transparency will enable all stakeholders to have access to the relevant information needed to make informed decisions, including but not limited to customers and business partners. Both transparency and traceability support visibility throughout the textile and clothing value chains and therefore contribute to build trust between stakeholders. Overall, the purpose of this chapter is to present a deepened understanding of what traceability and transparency concern, and how they can constitute an enabler to accelerate industry’s efforts towards achieving SDG 12. Available literature is reviewed thoroughly and supported by examples of implemented industry practices.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

eBook
USD 16.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 16.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 109.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

Similar content being viewed by others

Notes

  1. 1.

    UN Agenda 2030 for Sustainable Development https://sustainabledevelopment.un.org.

References

  1. Agrawal T, Koehl L, Campagne C (2018) A secured tag for implementation of traceability in textile and clothing supply chain. Int J Adv Manuf Technol 99(9–12):2563–2577

    Article  Google Scholar 

  2. Apparelcoalition.org (2019) The Higg Index—Sustainable Apparel Coalition. [online] Available at: https://apparelcoalition.org/the-higg-index/

  3. ASKET (2019) Full traceability—garment tracing, from farm to finish line. [online] Available at: https://www.asket.com/traceability/

  4. Bhaduri G, Ha-Brookshire J (2011) Do transparent business practices pay? Exploration of transparency and consumer purchase intention. Cloth Textiles Res J 29(2):135–149

    Article  Google Scholar 

  5. Birkey R, Guidry R, Islam M, Patten D (2016) Mandated social disclosure: an analysis of the response to the California Transparency in Supply Chains Act of 2010. J Bus Ethics 152(3):827–841

    Article  Google Scholar 

  6. Brundtland G (1987) Our common future: report of the 1987 World Commission on Environment and Development. United Nations, Oslo, pp 1–59

    Google Scholar 

  7. Carter CR, Rogers DS (2008) A framework of sustainable supply chain management: moving toward new theory. Int J Phys Distrib Logist Manage 38:360–387

    Article  Google Scholar 

  8. Circle Economy (2019) The circularity gap report 2019. The platform for accelerating the circular economy (PACE). [online] Available at: https://www.circularity-gap.world/. CC by 1.0

  9. Clean Clothes Campaign (2017) Follow the thread: the need for supply chain transparency in the garment and footwear industry

    Google Scholar 

  10. Corporate Human Rights Benchmark (2019) Home. [online] Available at: https://www.corporatebenchmark.org/

  11. Echa.europa.eu (2019) Understanding REACH - ECHA. [online] Available at: https://echa.europa.eu/regulations/reach/understanding-reach

  12. Egels-Zandén N, Hulthén K, Wulff G (2014) Trade-offs in SC transparency: the case of Nudie Jeans Co.

    Google Scholar 

  13. ElMessiry M, ElMessiry A (2018) Blockchain framework for textile supply chain management. Lect Notes Comput Sci 213–227

    Google Scholar 

  14. eu.icebreaker.com (2019) Icebreaker—merino wool clothing for outdoor and performance sports. [online] Available at: https://eu.icebreaker.com/en/transparency.html

  15. Fashion Revolution (2019) Home—Fashion Revolution. [online] Available at: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/

  16. Fashionunited.nl (2019) [online] Available at: https://fashionunited.nl/images/201804/4AMadeinlabel1.jpg

  17. Fletcher K (2008) Sustainable fashion and textiles: design journeys

    Google Scholar 

  18. Flickr (2019) Sunday telegraph Australia day hat—made in China—one size fits all. [online] Available at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/angusf/2270317189

  19. Global Fashion Agenda (2018) CEO agenda 2018: seven sustainability priorities for fashion industry leaders

    Google Scholar 

  20. Gray R, Javad M, Power DM, Sinclair CD (2001) Social and environmental disclosure and corporate characteristics: a research note and extension. J Bus Financ Acc 28(3–4):327–356

    Article  Google Scholar 

  21. Greenpeace International (2019) Detox My Fashion—Greenpeace International. [online] Available at: https://www.greenpeace.org/international/act/detox/

  22. Gs1.org (2019) Annual report 2018. [online] Available at: https://www.gs1.org/sites/default/files/docs/annual_report/GS1-Annual-Report-2018.pdf

  23. Gunasekaran A, Hong P, Fujimoto T (2014) Building supply chain system capabilities in the age of global complexity: emerging theories and practices. Int J Prod Econ 147:189–197

    Article  Google Scholar 

  24. Hu J, Zhang X, Moga LM, Neculita M (2013) Modeling and implementation of the vegetable supply chain traceability system. Food Control 30:341–353

    Article  Google Scholar 

  25. Iso.org (2018) Traceability [online] Available at: https://www.iso.org/obp/ui/iso:std:iso:9000:ed-4:v1:en:term:3.6.13

  26. Joy A, Peña C (2017) Sustainability and the fashion industry: conceptualizing nature and traceability. In Sustainability in fashion, pp 31–54

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  27. Kamal Y, Deegan C (2013) Corporate social and environment-related governance disclosure practices in the textile and garment industry: evidence from a developing country. Aust Acc Rev 23(2):117–134

    Article  Google Scholar 

  28. Kang J, Hustvedt G (2014) The contribution of perceived labor transparency and perceived corporate giving to brand equity in the footwear industry. Cloth Textiles Res J 32(4):296–311

    Article  Google Scholar 

  29. Kumar V, Koehl L, Zeng X (2016) A fully yarn integrated tag for tracking the international textile supply chain. J Manuf Syst 40:76–86

    Article  Google Scholar 

  30. Kumar V, Hallqvist C, Ekwall D (2017a) Developing a framework for traceability implementation in the textile supply chain. Systems 5(2):33

    Article  Google Scholar 

  31. Kumar V, Agrawal T, Wang L, Chen Y (2017b) Contribution of traceability towards attaining sustainability in the textile sector. Textiles Cloth Sustain 3(1)

    Google Scholar 

  32. Linich D (2014) The path to supply chain transparency. A practical guide to defining, understanding, and building supply chain transparency in a global economy

    Google Scholar 

  33. Ma Y, Lee H, Goerlitz K (2015) Transparency of Global Apparel supply chains: quantitative analysis of corporate disclosures. Corp Soc Responsib Environ Manag 23(5):308–318

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  34. Macchion L, Furlan A, Vinelli A (2017) The implementation of traceability in Fashion Networks. In Collaboration in a data-rich world, pp 86–96

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  35. Madaster.com (2019) Madaster origination: Madaster. [online] Available at: https://www.madaster.com/en/about-us/why-a-materials-passport

  36. Mani V, Gunasekaran A, Delgado C (2018) Supply chain social sustainability: standard adoption practices in Portuguese manufacturing firms. Int J Prod Econ 198:149–164

    Article  Google Scholar 

  37. Martin DM, Schouten J (2011) Sustainable marketing. Pearson Prentice Hall, New York

    Google Scholar 

  38. Minami C, Nishioka K, Dawson J (2012) Information transparency in SME network relationships: evidence from a Japanese hosiery firm. Int J Logist Res Appl 15(6):405–423. https://doi.org/10.1080/13675567.2012.749848

    Article  Google Scholar 

  39. Nudiejeans.com (2019) Production guide—Nudie Jeans. [online] Available at: https://www.nudiejeans.com/productionguide/

  40. OECD (2013) Trade policy implications of global value chains. http://www.oecd.org/sti/ind/Trade_Policy_Implications_May_2013.pdf

  41. OECD (2014) Greening household behavior: overview from the 2011 survey, revised edn. OECD Studies on Environmental Policy and Household Behaviour

    Google Scholar 

  42. Panigrahi SS, Rao NS (2018) A stakeholders’ perspective on barriers to adopt sustainable practices in MSME supply chain. Issues and challenges in the textile sector

    Google Scholar 

  43. Patagonia.com (2019) The Footprint Chronicles. [online] Available at: https://www.patagonia.com/footprint.html

  44. Roadmaptozero.com (2019) ZDHC. [online] Available at: https://www.roadmaptozero.com/

  45. Seuring S, Müller M (2008) From a literature review to a conceptual framework for sustainable supply chain management. J Clean Prod 16(15):1699–1710

    Article  Google Scholar 

  46. Shea A, Nakayama M, Heymann J (2010) Improving labour standards in clothing factories. Glob Soc Policy Interdisc J Publ Policy Soc Dev 10(1):85–110

    Google Scholar 

  47. Stevenson M, Cole R (2018) Modern slavery in supply chains: a secondary data analysis of detection, remediation and disclosure. Suppl Chain Manage [Online] 23(2): 81–99

    Article  Google Scholar 

  48. Sustainabledevelopment.un.org (2019a) Goal 12: sustainable development knowledge platform. [online] Available at: https://sustainabledevelopment.un.org/sdg12

  49. Sustainabledevelopment.un.org (2019b) Transforming our world: the 2030 agenda for sustainable development: sustainable development knowledge platform. [online] Available at: https://sustainabledevelopment.un.org/post2015/transformingourworld

  50. Svensson G (2009) The transparency of SCM ethics: conceptual framework and empirical illustrations. Supply Chain Manag Int J 14(4):259–269

    Article  Google Scholar 

  51. Textileexchange.org (2019) Glossary and abbreviations | Textile Exchange. [online] Available at: https://textileexchange.org/materials/glossary/

  52. TrusTrace.com (2019) TrusTrace | trust through traceability. [online] Available at: https://www.trustrace.com/

  53. Unece.org (2019) Trade—UNECE. [online] Available at: https://www.unece.org/tradewelcome/outreach-and-support-for-trade-facilitation/traceability-for-sustainable-value-chains-textile-and-leather-sector.html

  54. United Nations (2011) Guiding principles on business and human rights: implementing the United Nations ‘Protect, Respect and Remedy’ framework. HR/PUB/11/04

    Google Scholar 

  55. United Nations (2016) Traceability for sustainable trade: a framework to design traceability systems for cross border trade. ECE/TRADE/429. Issued by the Economic Commission for Europe, UN/CEFACT

    Google Scholar 

  56. United Nations (2017) TEXTILE4SDG12: transparency in textile value chains in relation to the environmental, social and human health impacts of parts, components and production processes. ECE/TRADE/439. Issued by the Economic Commission for Europe, UN/CEFACT

    Google Scholar 

  57. Vishwanath T, Kaufmann D (2001) Toward transparency: new approaches and their application to financial markets. World Bank Research Observer 16:41–57

    Article  Google Scholar 

  58. Webster K (2016) The circular economy: a wealth of flows. Ellen MacArthur Foundation Publishing, Isle of Wight

    Google Scholar 

  59. World Bank (2017) ICT in agriculture: connecting smallholders to knowledge, networks, and institutions, updated edn. World Bank, Washington, DC. https://doi.org/10.1596/978-1-4648-1002-2. License: Creative Commons Attribution CC BY 3.0 IGO

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Natalia Papú Carrone .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2020 Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd.

About this chapter

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this chapter

Papú Carrone, N. (2020). Traceability and Transparency: A Way Forward for SDG 12 in the Textile and Clothing Industry. In: Gardetti, M., Muthu, S. (eds) The UN Sustainable Development Goals for the Textile and Fashion Industry. Textile Science and Clothing Technology. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-13-8787-6_1

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-13-8787-6_1

  • Published:

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Singapore

  • Print ISBN: 978-981-13-8786-9

  • Online ISBN: 978-981-13-8787-6

  • eBook Packages: EngineeringEngineering (R0)

Publish with us

Policies and ethics