Abstract
Sustainable Development Goal, SDG, 12 calls for a profound business transformation towards sustainable consumption and production patterns. This involves the entire value chain from a holistic perspective, from raw material to consumer, both globally and locally. Target 12.8 specifically identifies the need for people everywhere to ‘have the relevant information and awareness for sustainable development and lifestyles in harmony with nature’. To enable this shift, industry practitioners and academics have recognised traceability as the necessary first step for informed decision-making. Traceability, according to the International Organization for Standardization, ISO, refers to the ‘ability to identify and trace the history, distribution, location, and application of products, parts, materials, and services’. Full implementation of traceability systems will allow industry partners to have access to reliable, comprehensive data of their business activities as well as their related environmental and social impact. Once this information is traced and available for firms, transparency will enable all stakeholders to have access to the relevant information needed to make informed decisions, including but not limited to customers and business partners. Both transparency and traceability support visibility throughout the textile and clothing value chains and therefore contribute to build trust between stakeholders. Overall, the purpose of this chapter is to present a deepened understanding of what traceability and transparency concern, and how they can constitute an enabler to accelerate industry’s efforts towards achieving SDG 12. Available literature is reviewed thoroughly and supported by examples of implemented industry practices.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Similar content being viewed by others
Notes
- 1.
UN Agenda 2030 for Sustainable Development https://sustainabledevelopment.un.org.
References
Agrawal T, Koehl L, Campagne C (2018) A secured tag for implementation of traceability in textile and clothing supply chain. Int J Adv Manuf Technol 99(9–12):2563–2577
Apparelcoalition.org (2019) The Higg Index—Sustainable Apparel Coalition. [online] Available at: https://apparelcoalition.org/the-higg-index/
ASKET (2019) Full traceability—garment tracing, from farm to finish line. [online] Available at: https://www.asket.com/traceability/
Bhaduri G, Ha-Brookshire J (2011) Do transparent business practices pay? Exploration of transparency and consumer purchase intention. Cloth Textiles Res J 29(2):135–149
Birkey R, Guidry R, Islam M, Patten D (2016) Mandated social disclosure: an analysis of the response to the California Transparency in Supply Chains Act of 2010. J Bus Ethics 152(3):827–841
Brundtland G (1987) Our common future: report of the 1987 World Commission on Environment and Development. United Nations, Oslo, pp 1–59
Carter CR, Rogers DS (2008) A framework of sustainable supply chain management: moving toward new theory. Int J Phys Distrib Logist Manage 38:360–387
Circle Economy (2019) The circularity gap report 2019. The platform for accelerating the circular economy (PACE). [online] Available at: https://www.circularity-gap.world/. CC by 1.0
Clean Clothes Campaign (2017) Follow the thread: the need for supply chain transparency in the garment and footwear industry
Corporate Human Rights Benchmark (2019) Home. [online] Available at: https://www.corporatebenchmark.org/
Echa.europa.eu (2019) Understanding REACH - ECHA. [online] Available at: https://echa.europa.eu/regulations/reach/understanding-reach
Egels-Zandén N, Hulthén K, Wulff G (2014) Trade-offs in SC transparency: the case of Nudie Jeans Co.
ElMessiry M, ElMessiry A (2018) Blockchain framework for textile supply chain management. Lect Notes Comput Sci 213–227
eu.icebreaker.com (2019) Icebreaker—merino wool clothing for outdoor and performance sports. [online] Available at: https://eu.icebreaker.com/en/transparency.html
Fashion Revolution (2019) Home—Fashion Revolution. [online] Available at: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/
Fashionunited.nl (2019) [online] Available at: https://fashionunited.nl/images/201804/4AMadeinlabel1.jpg
Fletcher K (2008) Sustainable fashion and textiles: design journeys
Flickr (2019) Sunday telegraph Australia day hat—made in China—one size fits all. [online] Available at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/angusf/2270317189
Global Fashion Agenda (2018) CEO agenda 2018: seven sustainability priorities for fashion industry leaders
Gray R, Javad M, Power DM, Sinclair CD (2001) Social and environmental disclosure and corporate characteristics: a research note and extension. J Bus Financ Acc 28(3–4):327–356
Greenpeace International (2019) Detox My Fashion—Greenpeace International. [online] Available at: https://www.greenpeace.org/international/act/detox/
Gs1.org (2019) Annual report 2018. [online] Available at: https://www.gs1.org/sites/default/files/docs/annual_report/GS1-Annual-Report-2018.pdf
Gunasekaran A, Hong P, Fujimoto T (2014) Building supply chain system capabilities in the age of global complexity: emerging theories and practices. Int J Prod Econ 147:189–197
Hu J, Zhang X, Moga LM, Neculita M (2013) Modeling and implementation of the vegetable supply chain traceability system. Food Control 30:341–353
Iso.org (2018) Traceability [online] Available at: https://www.iso.org/obp/ui/iso:std:iso:9000:ed-4:v1:en:term:3.6.13
Joy A, Peña C (2017) Sustainability and the fashion industry: conceptualizing nature and traceability. In Sustainability in fashion, pp 31–54
Kamal Y, Deegan C (2013) Corporate social and environment-related governance disclosure practices in the textile and garment industry: evidence from a developing country. Aust Acc Rev 23(2):117–134
Kang J, Hustvedt G (2014) The contribution of perceived labor transparency and perceived corporate giving to brand equity in the footwear industry. Cloth Textiles Res J 32(4):296–311
Kumar V, Koehl L, Zeng X (2016) A fully yarn integrated tag for tracking the international textile supply chain. J Manuf Syst 40:76–86
Kumar V, Hallqvist C, Ekwall D (2017a) Developing a framework for traceability implementation in the textile supply chain. Systems 5(2):33
Kumar V, Agrawal T, Wang L, Chen Y (2017b) Contribution of traceability towards attaining sustainability in the textile sector. Textiles Cloth Sustain 3(1)
Linich D (2014) The path to supply chain transparency. A practical guide to defining, understanding, and building supply chain transparency in a global economy
Ma Y, Lee H, Goerlitz K (2015) Transparency of Global Apparel supply chains: quantitative analysis of corporate disclosures. Corp Soc Responsib Environ Manag 23(5):308–318
Macchion L, Furlan A, Vinelli A (2017) The implementation of traceability in Fashion Networks. In Collaboration in a data-rich world, pp 86–96
Madaster.com (2019) Madaster origination: Madaster. [online] Available at: https://www.madaster.com/en/about-us/why-a-materials-passport
Mani V, Gunasekaran A, Delgado C (2018) Supply chain social sustainability: standard adoption practices in Portuguese manufacturing firms. Int J Prod Econ 198:149–164
Martin DM, Schouten J (2011) Sustainable marketing. Pearson Prentice Hall, New York
Minami C, Nishioka K, Dawson J (2012) Information transparency in SME network relationships: evidence from a Japanese hosiery firm. Int J Logist Res Appl 15(6):405–423. https://doi.org/10.1080/13675567.2012.749848
Nudiejeans.com (2019) Production guide—Nudie Jeans. [online] Available at: https://www.nudiejeans.com/productionguide/
OECD (2013) Trade policy implications of global value chains. http://www.oecd.org/sti/ind/Trade_Policy_Implications_May_2013.pdf
OECD (2014) Greening household behavior: overview from the 2011 survey, revised edn. OECD Studies on Environmental Policy and Household Behaviour
Panigrahi SS, Rao NS (2018) A stakeholders’ perspective on barriers to adopt sustainable practices in MSME supply chain. Issues and challenges in the textile sector
Patagonia.com (2019) The Footprint Chronicles. [online] Available at: https://www.patagonia.com/footprint.html
Roadmaptozero.com (2019) ZDHC. [online] Available at: https://www.roadmaptozero.com/
Seuring S, Müller M (2008) From a literature review to a conceptual framework for sustainable supply chain management. J Clean Prod 16(15):1699–1710
Shea A, Nakayama M, Heymann J (2010) Improving labour standards in clothing factories. Glob Soc Policy Interdisc J Publ Policy Soc Dev 10(1):85–110
Stevenson M, Cole R (2018) Modern slavery in supply chains: a secondary data analysis of detection, remediation and disclosure. Suppl Chain Manage [Online] 23(2): 81–99
Sustainabledevelopment.un.org (2019a) Goal 12: sustainable development knowledge platform. [online] Available at: https://sustainabledevelopment.un.org/sdg12
Sustainabledevelopment.un.org (2019b) Transforming our world: the 2030 agenda for sustainable development: sustainable development knowledge platform. [online] Available at: https://sustainabledevelopment.un.org/post2015/transformingourworld
Svensson G (2009) The transparency of SCM ethics: conceptual framework and empirical illustrations. Supply Chain Manag Int J 14(4):259–269
Textileexchange.org (2019) Glossary and abbreviations | Textile Exchange. [online] Available at: https://textileexchange.org/materials/glossary/
TrusTrace.com (2019) TrusTrace | trust through traceability. [online] Available at: https://www.trustrace.com/
Unece.org (2019) Trade—UNECE. [online] Available at: https://www.unece.org/tradewelcome/outreach-and-support-for-trade-facilitation/traceability-for-sustainable-value-chains-textile-and-leather-sector.html
United Nations (2011) Guiding principles on business and human rights: implementing the United Nations ‘Protect, Respect and Remedy’ framework. HR/PUB/11/04
United Nations (2016) Traceability for sustainable trade: a framework to design traceability systems for cross border trade. ECE/TRADE/429. Issued by the Economic Commission for Europe, UN/CEFACT
United Nations (2017) TEXTILE4SDG12: transparency in textile value chains in relation to the environmental, social and human health impacts of parts, components and production processes. ECE/TRADE/439. Issued by the Economic Commission for Europe, UN/CEFACT
Vishwanath T, Kaufmann D (2001) Toward transparency: new approaches and their application to financial markets. World Bank Research Observer 16:41–57
Webster K (2016) The circular economy: a wealth of flows. Ellen MacArthur Foundation Publishing, Isle of Wight
World Bank (2017) ICT in agriculture: connecting smallholders to knowledge, networks, and institutions, updated edn. World Bank, Washington, DC. https://doi.org/10.1596/978-1-4648-1002-2. License: Creative Commons Attribution CC BY 3.0 IGO
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2020 Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd.
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Papú Carrone, N. (2020). Traceability and Transparency: A Way Forward for SDG 12 in the Textile and Clothing Industry. In: Gardetti, M., Muthu, S. (eds) The UN Sustainable Development Goals for the Textile and Fashion Industry. Textile Science and Clothing Technology. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-13-8787-6_1
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-13-8787-6_1
Published:
Publisher Name: Springer, Singapore
Print ISBN: 978-981-13-8786-9
Online ISBN: 978-981-13-8787-6
eBook Packages: EngineeringEngineering (R0)