Abstract
Understanding of nearshore wave characteristics is vital for beach processes, sediment transport, the design of coastal structures and shoreline management. Identification and separation of wind sea and swell wave characteristics provide more realistic depiction of sea state and are of great importance in sea safety, offshore structure design and ship operations. Seasonal and inter-annual wave characteristics based on observed wave data collected for the period March 2015–February 2017 from 2 km off Vizhinjam coast at 25 m water depth are studied. The separation of wind sea and swell components from the wave spectrum was done by wave steepness method that separates by a separating frequency (fs) into sea and swell parts and their components, viz. significant wave heights (Hs, Hsw and Hss), zero crossing periods (Tz, Tsw and Tss) and mean wave periods (θsw, θss). The predominant wave direction is SSW (202.5°) followed by South (180°) and SW (225°), recorded annually. The maximum and significant wave height of 4.7 and 2.85 m, respectively, was recorded during June 2015; however, there was no major cyclone impact in the study duration. The result of long-term (two years) wave characteristics of Vizhinjam shows the monthly and seasonal variations of wave parameters are within a range and repetitive.
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Acknowledgements
The present study is a part of the ongoing research project ‘Technical Criteria Atlas (TCA)’ sponsored by the Ministry of Earth Sciences (MoES), Government of India. We are grateful to Secretary, MoES, Government of India, New Delhi, for necessary funding support, and The Director, National Institute of Ocean Technology, Chennai, for his encouragement and support. The help rendered by the Vizhinjam Port authorities is acknowledged.
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Patra, S.K., Jena, B.K., Suseentharan, V., Ramanamurthy, M.V. (2019). Seasonal and Inter-Annual Variations in Wave Characteristics of Vizhinjam, South-West Coast of India. In: Murali, K., Sriram, V., Samad, A., Saha, N. (eds) Proceedings of the Fourth International Conference in Ocean Engineering (ICOE2018). Lecture Notes in Civil Engineering, vol 22. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-13-3119-0_50
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