Abstract
Sustainability within the fashion industry is a matter of growing concern with the emergence and surge of the fast fashion system. The research literature is aimed at defining the current fashion scenario, understanding the roles of stakeholders involved and presenting significant existing models of sustainable design. This chapter proposes the need for a practical strategy towards a sustainable future by setting short-term and long-term goals. Education as a solution that penetrates into the layers of institutes, collaborative design, and brands is discussed along with the notion of developing better consumer relationships through emotional and conceptual strategies for value addition. This chapter touches upon recognizing topology as an exploitable concept for innovative sustainable design. Re-evaluation of the design process is explored through the development of a hybrid cutting technique called Planar Flux, inspired by the Mobius strip, that urges one to view patterns axially while reducing fabric consumption, cutting and construction simultaneously. The success of the technique is assessed using parameters of collaboration, development of zero-waste pattern and positing its application in a fast fashion business setup. The aims are to corroborate the benefits of such a system, its influence on the consumer and contribution to all aspects of sustainability.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Similar content being viewed by others
References
Aakko M, Sivonen-Koskennurmi R (2013) Designing sustainable fashion: possibilities and challenges. J RJTA 17(1):13–22
Anderson K (2005) Patternmaking: past to present. Available via http://www.techexchange.com/library/Patternmaking%20-%20Past%20to%20Present.pdf. Accessed 21 Aug 2017
Bianchi L, Battaglia M, Testa F, Iraldo F, Frey M (2014) Corporate social responsibility and competitiveness within SMEs of the fashion industry: evidence from Italy and France. J Sustain 6(2):872–893
Bonini S, Oppenheim J (2008) Cultivating the green consumer. Stanford Soc Innovation Rev 6(4):56–61
Brown S (2013) Design for recycling/upcycling. In: MISTRA textile toolbox. New York Fashion Institute of Technology, New York. Available via http://www.textiletoolbox.com/research-writing/design-recycling-upcycling. Accessed 31 Jul 2017
Burtt, Hennes & Mauritz AB (2017) H&M sustainability report 2016. Hennes & Mauritz AB, Stockholm. Available via http://sustainability.hm.com/content/dam/hm/about/documents/en/CSR/2016%20Sustainability%20report/HM_group_SustainabilityReport_2016_FullReport_en.pdf. 21 Jul 2017
Chrislip DD, Larson CE (1994) Collaborative leadership: how citizens and civic leaders can make a difference. Jossey-Bass, San Francisco
Clark H (2008) Slow + Fashion—an oxymoron—or a promise for the future…? Fashion Theory 12(4):427–446
Clark H (2012) Uncut: the materiality of textiles and the politics of sustainment in fashionable clothing. In: Textile society of America symposium proceedings, Washington, DC, Paper 668. Available via http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/668. Accessed 29 May 2016
Collins English Dictionary (2017) Available via https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/homeomorphism. Accessed 12 Aug 2017
Cone Communications (2013). 2013 Cone communications green gap trend tracker. [Web log post]. http://www.conecomm.com/2013-cone-communications-green-gap-trend-tracker. Accessed 19 Aug 2017
Cotton Incorporated (2013) Consumer perspectives on “green” apparel. Available via http://www.cottoninc.com/corporate/Market-Data/SupplyChainInsights/consumer-perspectives-on-green-apparel/Consumer-Perspectives-On-Green-Apparels.pdf. Accessed 12 Aug 2016
Doherty P, Murphy P (1999) Twisted thinking. In: van Gelder G (ed) Magazine of fantasy and science fiction, vol 96. Mercury press, Cornwall, pp 103–110
Ecouterre (2012) Sh!t dame Vivienne Westwood says: greatest hits edition. Ecouterre. Available via http://www.ecouterre.com/shit-dame-vivienne-westwood-says/vivienne-westwood-says-4/?extend=1
Firth L (2015) How do you define sustainable fashion? HuffPost Style, UK. Available via http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/livia-giuggioli/livia-firth-sustainable-fashion_b_8152496.html. Accessed 5 Apr 2017
Fletcher K (2008) Sustainable fashion and textiles. Earthscan, London
Fletcher K, Grose L (2012) Fashion and sustainability. Lawrence King, London
Forbes (2015) Who are the fashion leaders and why does it matter? Forbes Media, New Jersey. Available via https://www.forbes.com/sites/walterloeb/2015/10/23/who-are-the-fast-fashion-leaders-and-why-does-it-matter/#733c1ccc1555. Accessed 17 Aug 2016
Gwilt A (2009) Generating sustainable fashion: opportunities, innovation and the creative fashion designer. In: Rouse E (ed) Fashion & well-being?: conference proceedings. Centre for Learning and Teaching in Art and Design, University of the Arts London, London. Available via https://www.academia.edu/3708313/Generating_Sustainable_Fashion_Opportunities_Innovation_and_The_Creative_Fashion_Designer. Accessed 18 Aug 2017
Gwilt A (2014) Fashion and sustainability: repairing the clothes we wear. In: Gwilt A (ed) Fashion design for living. Routledge
Hartman CL, Hofman PS, Stafford ER (2002) Environmental collaboration: potential and limits. In: de Bruijn T, Tukker A (eds) Partnership and leadership. Kluwer Academic Publishers, Dordrecht, pp 21–40
Herges R (2005) Möbius, escher, bach—das unendliche band in kunst und wissenschaft. Naturwissenschaftliche Rundschau 58(6):301–310
Hilbert D, Cohn-Vossen S (1952) Geometry and the imagination. Chelsea Publishing Company, New York
Joy A, Sherry F Jr, Venkatesh A, Wang J, Chan R (2012) Fast fashion, sustainability, and the ethical appeal of luxury brands. Fashion Theory 16(3):273–296
Kanetkar P (2013) Flatland. In: Hyperspace. Available via http://pavitra-kanetkar.blogspot.in/2013/11/in-flatland-jail-is-circle-drawn-around.html. Accessed 2 May 2017
Kim HS, Hall M (2015) Green brand strategies in the fashion industry: leveraging connections of the consumer, brand, and environmental sustainability. In: Choi TM, Cheng T (eds) Sustainable fashion supply chain management. Springer Series in Supply Chain Management, vol 1. Springer, Cham, pp 31–45
Kipöz S (2013) Slow fashion ethics: re-production of memory through deconstruction. Paper presented at 10th European academy of design conference—crafting the future, Gothenburg University, Sweden, 17–19 Apr 2013
Kozlowski A, Bardecki M, Searcy C (2014) Sustainable fashion: a re-conceptualization of the role of fashion design. In: Bohemia E, Rieple A, Liedtka J (eds) Design management in an era of disruption. The 19th DMI academic design management conference, London, 2–4 Sept 2014
Kozlowski A, Searcy C, Bardecki M (2015) Innovation for a sustainable fashion industry: a design focused approach toward the development of new business models. In: Muthu SS, Gardetti MA (eds) Green fashion. Environmental footprints and eco-design of products and processes. Springer, Singapore, pp 151–169
Levi’s® Water (2014) Levi’s® Water<Less Jeans. http://store.levi.com/waterless/index.html. Accessed 20 Jul 2017
Lindqvist R (2013) On the logic of pattern cutting: foundational cuts and approximations of the body. Dissertation, University of Borås, Sweden. Available via https://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:877037/FULLTEXT01.pdf. Accessed 22 Aug 2017
Little AD (2006) The innovation high ground: winning tomorrow’s customers using sustainability driven innovation. J Strateg Dir 22(1):35–37
McQuillan H (2012) Zero-waste design practice. In: Gwilt A, Rissanen T (eds) Shaping sustainable fashion: changing the way we make and use clothes. Routledge, London, pp 83–97
McQuillan H, Rissanen T, Roberts J (2013) The cutting circle: how to make challenging designs. J RJTA 17(1):39–49
McWilliams A, Siegel D (2001) Corporate social responsibility: a theory of the firm perspective. J Acad Manag Rev 26:117–127. https://doi.org/10.5465/AMR.2001.4011987
Milnes H (2015) 2016 year in preview: fast fashion slips into high gear (and hits a few speed bumps), Digiday. Available via http://digiday.com/brands/2016yearinpreview-fast-fashion-ramps-hits-speed-bumps. Accessed 16 Aug 2016
Muslu D (2012) Innovation and sustainability in fashion industry. Dissertation, The Swedish School of Textiles, Sweden. Available via http://bada.hb.se/bitstream/2320/12262/1/2012.13.14.pdf. Accessed 29 May 2017
NBC New York (2011) Stella McCartney talks eco-fashion and her brand’s growth. NBC New York, New York. Available via http://www.nbcnewyork.com/blogs/threadny/THREAD-Stella-McCartney-Talks-Eco-Fashion-And-Her-Brands-Growth-121332764.html. Accessed 21 Jul 2017
Nerurkar O (2016) Designing sustainable fashion: role of psychosocial factors of fashion consumption and the challenges of design. J Indian J Sci Tech 9(15):1–7
Nike (2012) The new Nike + running experience: smarter, more social, more motivational. https://news.nike.com/news/nikeplus-experience. Accessed 22 Jul 2017
Nike (2014) Nike’s sustainability reports shows company reducing environmental impact while continuing to grow. https://news.nike.com/news/nike-s-sustainability-report-shows-company-reducing-environmental-impact-while-continuing-to-grow. Accessed 22 Jul 2017
Obregón C (2012) Sustainable fashion education: from trend to paradigm? Paper presented at cumulus conference, Cumulus the international association of universities and colleges of art, design and media, Santiago, Chile. Available via https://www.academia.edu/2052716/Sustainable_Fashion_Education_From_Trend_to_Paradigm. Accessed 3 Aug 2017
Oshry B (2012) We are living blindly in an outmoded paradigm. The seeing systems blog. Available via http://seeingsystems.blogs.com/my_weblog/2011/09/we-are-living-blindly-in-an-outmoded-paradigm.html. Accessed 16 Apr 2017
Physics Forums (2009) Mobius strip. https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/mobius-strip.231178. Accessed 14 Aug 2016
Ratto M (2011) Critical making: conceptual and material studies in technology and social life. J Inf Soc 27:252–260. https://doi.org/10.1080/01972243.2011.583819
Reformation (2017). https://www.thereformation.com. Accessed 22 Jul 2017
Rissanen T (2005) From 15% to 0: Investigating the creation of fashion without the creation of fabric waste. Paper presented at creativity: designer meets technology conference, Copenhagen
Roberts J (2011) Free cutting. https://subtractioncutting.tumblr.com/freecutting. Accessed 3 Aug 2016
Romano Z (2011) Julian and subtraction cutting—part 1. Available via https://zoescope.wordpress.com/2011/02/03/julian-and-subtraction-cutting-part-1
Rothenborg AL (2016) The role of the sustainable designer: from aesthetic creator to facilitator of change. Dissertation, International University of Art for Fashion, ESMOD, Berlin
Sharma S (2016) The handbook. http://planarflux.wixsite.com/design/project-02. Accessed 5 May 2017
Stella McCartney (2017a) Q&a with Stella. https://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/us/sustainability/qa-with-stella. Accessed 23 Aug 2017
Stella McCartney (2017b) Adidas. https://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/us/adidas. Accessed 23 Aug 2016
Stern A (2000) Quantum theoretic machines: what is thought from the point of view of physics?. Elsevier, Amsterdam, pp 101–103
Thackara J (2005) In the bubble: designing in a complex world. The MIT Press, Cambridge
Verganti R (2009) Design-driven innovation. Harvard Business Press, Boston
Weisstein (2017a) Topology. In: MathWorld–a wolfram web resource. Available via http://mathworld.wolfram.com/Topology.html. Accessed 12 Aug 2017
Weisstein (2017b) Möbius strip. In: MathWorld–a wolfram web resource. Available via http://mathworld.wolfram.com/MoebiusStrip.html. Accessed 3 May 2017
Wilk R (2017) Without consumer culture, there is no environmental crisis. Paper prepared for the PERN cyberseminar on culture, beliefs and the environment, Indiana University, Indiana. Available via https://www.academia.edu/33409924/Without_Consumer_Culture_there_is_no_Environmental_Crisis. Accessed 31 Jul 2017
WRAP (2012) Valuing our clothes: the true cost of we design, use and dispose of clothing in the UK. Banbury, UK
Zhekova M (2013) Up-cycled fashion and sustainability. In: International conference on technics, technologies and education, Trakia University, Bulgaria, 30–31 Oct 2013
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2018 Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd.
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Sharma, S. (2018). The Sustainable Model: Designing Within a Sustainable Framework. In: Muthu, S. (eds) Models for Sustainable Framework in Luxury Fashion. Textile Science and Clothing Technology. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-10-8285-6_3
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-10-8285-6_3
Published:
Publisher Name: Springer, Singapore
Print ISBN: 978-981-10-8284-9
Online ISBN: 978-981-10-8285-6
eBook Packages: EngineeringEngineering (R0)