Abstract
Carved and painted onto wood, stone, bone, animal skins, or metal, or woven and knitted into cloth, the material culture from Northwest Coast Native peoples has historically been a one-of-a-kind iteration and a declaration of familial rights and privileges. These items have adorned public and private spaces, including the body, and were traditionally produced by hand. In recent years, some designs have been serialized and mass produced through new technologies such as silk screen and digital printing, adorning everything from coffee mugs to t-shirts, sunglasses, jewelry, and other garments (Roth 2012; Roth 2015). This chapter explores the history of Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations specifically and analyzes their distinctive aesthetics and design practice through the lens of fashion theory. The chapter concludes with a discussion of contemporary Nuu-chah-nulth designers and the circulation of their work. I ask: how does fashion operate within Nuu-chah-nulth social organization and how has ongoing colonialism and hybridization of prestige and capitalist economies transformed Nuu-chah-nulth fashion systems and design ideas? The findings discussed in this chapter draw from ongoing ethnographic research (beginning in October 2009) and archival- and museum-based research at both major and minor institutional repositories in the United States, Canada, Germany, and England.
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Notes
- 1.
Captain James Cook arrived and landed in 1778, but Juan Pérez anchored off shore in 1774.
- 2.
Museum and archival collections include: American Philosophical Society, Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History, Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian, National Anthropological Archives, United States National Archives, Museum of Anthropology at the University of British Columbia, Alberni Valley Museum, British Columbia Provincial Archives, Canadian Museum of History, Royal British Columbia Museum, Cornell Costume and Textile Collection, Karl May Museum, Ethnological Museum of Berlin, British Museum, Fenimore Art Museum, Peabody Harvard, Peabody Essex, Menil Collection, Denver Museum of Nature and Science, and the American Museum of Natural History.
- 3.
If the woman was of higher social rank than her future husband, the husband would move to the woman’s community. Hiskmiilth is the term used for a man who moves to his wife’s nation.
- 4.
“Business” is the English term used by Nuu-chah-nulth people to refer to the planned proceedings of the potlatch. If it is a Thlaakt’uulthaa (End-of-grief potlatch), for example, the “business” would be to end and put away the family’s grief for the death of a family member publicly. Giving names is also another form of “business” that often takes place at potlatches.
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Green, D.N. (2016). Fashion(s) from the Northwest Coast: Nuu-chah-nulth Design Iterations. In: Gardetti, M., Muthu, S. (eds) Ethnic Fashion. Environmental Footprints and Eco-design of Products and Processes. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-10-0765-1_2
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