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Essential Oils: Analytical Methods to Control the Quality of Perfumes

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Natural Products

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Abstract

Cosmetic products, including perfumes, are regulated by a single law concerning important aspects, such as composition or labeling, in order to protect public health. A revision on the regulatory aspects for fragrance chemicals in cosmetics and household products is exposed here.

Quality control of both, commercial perfumes and raw materials, is important for perfume manufacturers to assure that the finished perfume is the one that was formulated. On the other hand, analytical methods are necessary to assure, for safety purposes, that there are no undesired or banned compounds present in the finished product. Methods for perfume analysis are compiled and revised with special emphasis on the potentially allergenic fragrance-related substances and some other groups of substances such as musks and phthalates, being some of them restricted or forbidden.

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Abbreviations

AHTN:

6-acetyl-1,1,2,4,4,7-hexamethyltetralin

AITI:

5-acetyl-3-isopropyl-1,1,2,6-tetramethylindane

ALEX:

Automated liner exchange

ANN:

Artificial neuronal networks

BBP:

Benzyl butyl phthalate

CE:

Capillary electrophoresis

DBP:

Dibutyl phthalate

DEHP:

Bis(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate

DEP:

Diethyl phthalate

DIBP:

Diisobutyl phthalate

DIPP:

Diisopentyl phthalate

DMEP:

Bis(2-methoxyethyl) phthalate

DMP:

Dimethyl phthalate

DNOP:

Di-n-octyl-phthalate

DNPP:

Di-n-pentyl-phthalate

DPP:

Dipropyl phthalate

ECD:

Electron capture detector

EESI:

Electrospray ionization mass spectrometry

EIC:

Extracted ion chromatogram

FDA:

Food and Drug Administration

FID:

Flame ionization detector

FS:

Full scan

GC:

Gas chromatography

HHCB:

1,3,4,6,7,8-hexahydro-4,6,6,7,8,8-hexamethylcyclopenta(g)-2-benzopyran

HS:

Head space

IFRA:

International Fragrance Association

LC:

Liquid chromatography

LOD:

Limit of detection

LOQ:

Limit of quantification

MA:

Musk ambrette

MD:

Multidimensional

MEEKC:

Microemulsion electrokinetic chromatography

MK:

Musk ketone

MM:

Musk moskene

MS:

Mass spectrometry

MSPD:

Matrix solid-phase dispersion

MT:

Musk tibetene

MX:

Musk xylene

NPIPP:

n-pentyl-isopentylphthalate

PAS:

Potentially allergenic substance

PCA:

Principal component analysis

PLE:

Pressurized liquid extraction

PTV:

Programmed temperature vaporizing

RIFM:

Research Institute for Fragrance Materials

SBSE:

Stir bar sorptive extraction

SIM:

Selected ion monitoring

SPD:

Solid-phase dispersion

SPE:

Solid-phase extraction

TIC:

Total ion chromatogram

TLC:

Thin-layer chromatography

TOF:

Time-of-flight

UV:

Ultraviolet

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Department of Analytical Chemistry, University of Valencia, 50 Doctor Moliner Street, Burjassot, Valencia, 46100, Spain

    Dr. Alberto Chisvert, Marina López-Nogueroles & Amparo Salvador

Authors
  1. Dr. Alberto Chisvert
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  2. Marina López-Nogueroles
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  3. Amparo Salvador
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Corresponding author

Correspondence to Alberto Chisvert .

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Editors and Affiliations

  1. Botany Department, M.L. Sukhadia University, Durga Nursery Road, Udaipur, 313001, Rajasthan, India

    Kishan Gopal Ramawat

  2. Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences, Biological-Active Plant Substances Study, University of Bordeaux, 210 Chemin de Leysotte CS 50008, Villenave d'Ornon, 33882, France

    Jean-Michel Mérillon

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Chisvert, A., López-Nogueroles, M., Salvador, A. (2013). Essential Oils: Analytical Methods to Control the Quality of Perfumes. In: Ramawat, K., Mérillon, JM. (eds) Natural Products. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-22144-6_142

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