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Modeling of Coastal Waves and Hydrodynamics

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Springer Handbook of Ocean Engineering

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Abstract

This chapter presents an overview of the available methods for modeling coastal waves. First, an overview of the relevant coastal processes, from shoaling to turbulent mixing, is provided to establish a basis to compare the various modeling approaches. The bulk of the discussion centers on modeling wind waves and includes a brief overview of the linear and analytical theory available to quantify coastal transformation, and then follows with a summary of spectral and phase-resolving approaches. Modeling long waves is discussed next, with a focus on tsunami simulation. Finally, the chapter summarizes techniques to couple the various models and reviews recent advances in the topic.

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Abbreviations

1-D:

one-dimensional

2-D:

two-dimensional

3-D:

three-dimensional

CFD:

computational fluid dynamics

COBRAS:

Cornell breaking wave and structure

COMCOT:

Cornell multi-grid coupled tsunami model

COULWAVE:

Cornell University long and intermediate wave model

FUNWAVE:

fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model

LES:

large eddy simulation

MOST:

method of splitting tsunami

NSW:

nonlinear shallow water

RANS:

Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equation

REF/DIF:

refraction/diffraction model

STWAVE:

steady state spectral wave model

SWAN:

simulating waves nearshore

VOF:

volume of fluid

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Sonny Astani Dep. of Civil and Environmental Engineering, University of Southern California, 3620 South Vermont Avenue, CA 90089, Los Angeles, California, USA

    Patrick J. Lynett

  2. Zachry Dep. of Civil Engineering, Texas A&M University, 3136 TAMU, TX 77843-3136, College Station, Texas, USA

    James M. Kaihatu

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  1. Patrick J. Lynett
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  2. James M. Kaihatu
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Correspondence to Patrick J. Lynett .

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Editors and Affiliations

  1. The Inst. for Ocean and Systems Engineering – SeaTech, Florida Atlantic University, 101 North Beach Road, FL 33004, Dania Beach, Florida, USA

    Manhar R. Dhanak

  2. School of Naval Architecture & Marine Engineering, University of New Orleans, 2000 Lakeshore Drive, LA 70148, New Orleans, Louisiana, USA

    Nikolaos I. Xiros

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Lynett, P.J., Kaihatu, J.M. (2016). Modeling of Coastal Waves and Hydrodynamics. In: Dhanak, M.R., Xiros, N.I. (eds) Springer Handbook of Ocean Engineering. Springer Handbooks. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-16649-0_27

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-16649-0_27

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Cham

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