Abstract
Full grain refers to the strongest and most durable part of the cattle hide, consisting of the grain layer and the part of the underlying corium, and has not been sanded or buffed to remove any imperfections, that means it displays the more natural characteristics of leather. Leather quality changes with sampling location and were also affected by tanning and finishing processes utilized during production. Full grain leather, instead finishing, sometimes go only through an ironing process for the desired sheen is obtained. Therefore, with the purpose of analysing the influence of the leather processing level, and sampling location on their usage quality, in this paper, differently tanned semi processed cattle full grain leathers, sampled from the bend, shoulder and belly of side leather cuts were evaluated. Their applicability for footwear uppers were assessed by measuring leather thickness, mass per unit area, apparent density, tensile strength and percentage elongation at break, as well as flexibility using penetrometer and flexometer, all according to the standardised test methods.
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References
Kite, M., Thomson, R.: Conservation of Leather. Routledge Taylor & Francis Group, New York (2011). ISBN 978-0-7506-4881-3
EN ISO 2418:2017 Leather - Chemical, physical and mechanical and fastness test - Sampling location
EN ISO 5402–1:2017 Leather - Determination of flex resistance - Part 1: Flexometer method
EN ISO 5403–1:2011 Leather - Determination of water resistance of flexible leather - Part 1: Repeated linear compression (penetrometer)
EN ISO 2420:2017 Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Determination of apparent density and mass per unit area
EN ISO 3376:2020 Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Determination of tensile strength and percentage elongation
EN ISO 2589:2016 Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Determination of thickness
EN ISO 2419:2012 Leather - Physical and mechanical tests - Sample preparation and conditioning
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Tomljenović, A., Živičnjak, J., Akalović, J., Bošnjak, F.Ž. (2022). Usage Quality of Semi Processed Full Grain Leather. In: Msahli, S., Debbabi, F. (eds) Advances in Applied Research on Textile and Materials - IX. CIRATM 2020. Springer Proceedings in Materials, vol 17. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-08842-1_38
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-08842-1_38
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