Abstract
Women and men worldwide use an abundance of skin care and cosmetic products, in pursuit of cleanliness with soaps and shampoos, or everlasting youth with creams and serums. No matter what age, location or socioeconomic background, we are all exposed to the widespread cosmetics industry. The global cosmetic market was worth $460 billion in 2014 and is estimated to reach $675 billion by 2020. While marketing and advertising efforts have forged a path for the industry’s continued growth, this momentum has not translated to equally refreshed regulatory practices in some parts of the world. This chapter reviews the regulatory status of cosmetics, adverse event reporting and studies attempting to link cosmetics with contact dermatitis. It aims to set the foundation for the emergence of nanocosmetics.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
References
Wood L. Research and Markets: Global Cosmetics Market 2015–2020: Market was $460 Billion in 2014 and is Estimated to Reach $675 Billion by 2020. [online] Businesswire.com; 2015. Available at: https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20150727005524/en/Research-Markets-Global-Cosmetics-Market-2015-2020-Market. Accessed 11 Apr. 2018.
Merrill R. FDA regulatory requirements as tort standards. J. L. & POL’Y. 2004;12(1):552–3.
Termini RB, Tressler LB. American beauty: an analytical view of the past and current effectiveness of cosmetic safety regulations and future direction. Food Drug Law J. 2008;63(1):257–74.
Boyer IJ, Bergfeld WF, Heldreth B, Fiume MM, Gill LJ. The cosmetic ingredient review program-expert safety assessments of cosmetic ingredients in an open forum. Int J Toxicol. 2017; 36 (5_suppl2):5S–13S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581817717646.
Api AM, Belsito D, Bruze M, Cadby P, Calow P, Dagli ML, Dekant W, Ellis G, Fryer AD, Fukayama M, Griem P, Hickey C, Kromidas L, Lalko JF, Liebler DC, Miyachi Y, Politano VT, Renskers K, Ritacco G, Salvito D, Schultz TW, Sipes IG, Smith B, Vitale D, Wilcox DK. Criteria for the research institute for fragrance materials, Inc. (RIFM) safety evaluation process for fragrance ingredients. Food Chem Toxicol, 82 (Supplement):S1–S19. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.fct.2014.11.014.
Kwa M, Welty LJ, Xu S. Adverse events reported to the us food and drug administration for cosmetics and personal care products. JAMA Intern Med. 2017;177(8):1202–4. https://doi.org/10.1001/jamainternmed.2017.2762.
Mowry JB, Spyker DA, Brooks DE, Zimmerman A, Schauben JL. 2015 Annual report of the American Association of Poison Control Centers’ National Poison Data System (NPDS): 33rd annual report. Clin Toxicol (Phila). 2016;54(10):924–1109. https://doi.org/10.1080/15563650.2016.1245421.
Adams RM, Maibach HI. A five-year study of cosmetic reactions. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1985;13(6):1062–9. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0190-9622(85)70258-7.
de Groot AC. Contact allergy to cosmetics: causative ingredients. Contact Dermatitis. 1987;17(1):26–34. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0536.1987.tb02640.x.
Eiermann HJ, Larsen W, Maibach HI, Taylor JS. Prospective study of cosmetic reactions: 1977–1980. North American Contact Dermatitis Group. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1982;6(5):909–17. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0190-9622(82)70080-5.
Nielsen NH, Menne T. Allergic contact sensitization in an unselected Danish population. The Glostrup allergy study, Denmark. Acta Derm Venereol. 1992;72(6):456–60.
Romaguera C, Camarasa JM, Alomar A, Grimalt F. Patch tests with allergens related to cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis. 1983;9(2):167–8. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0536.1983.tb04346.x.
Lachapelle J-M, Maibach HI, editors. Patch testing and prick testing: a practical guide official publication of the ICDRG. Berlin: Springer Science & Business Media; 2012.
Menkart J. An analysis of adverse reactions to cosmetics. Cutis. 1979;24(6):599–662.
Biebl KA, Warshaw EM. Allergic contact dermatitis to cosmetics. Dermatol Clin. 2006;24(2):215–32. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.det.2006.01.006.
Warshaw EM, Buchholz HJ, Belsito DV, Maibach HI, Fowler JF Jr, Rietschel RL, Zug KA, Mathias CG, Pratt MD, Sasseville D, Storrs FJ, Taylor JS, Deleo VA, Marks JG Jr. Allergic patch test reactions associated with cosmetics: retrospective analysis of cross-sectional data from the North American Contact Dermatitis Group, 2001-2004. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2009;60(1):23–38. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2008.07.056.
Park ME, Zippin JH. Allergic contact dermatitis to cosmetics. Dermatol Clin. 2014;32(1):1–11. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.det.2013.09.006.
Holly EA, Bracci PM, Hong MK, Mueller BA, Preston-Martin S. West Coast study of childhood brain tumours and maternal use of hair-colouring products. Paediatr Perinat Epidemiol. 2002;16(3):226–35. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-3016.2002.00420.x.
Sontag JM. Carcinogenicity of substituted-benzenediamines (phenylenediamines) in rats and mice. J Natl Cancer Inst. 1981;66(3):591–602. https://doi.org/10.1093/jnci/66.3.591.
La Vecchia C, Tavani A. Epidemiological evidence on hair dyes and the risk of cancer in humans. Eur J Cancer Prev. 1995;4(1):31–43.
Nohynek GJ, Fautz R, Benech-Kieffer F, Toutain H. Toxicity and human health risk of hair dyes. Food Chem Toxicol. 2004;42(4):517–43. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.fct.2003.11.003.
Hougaard KS, Hannerz H, Bonde JP, Feveile H, Burr H. The risk of infertility among hairdressers. Five-year follow-up of female hairdressers in a Danish national registry. Hum Reprod. 2006;21(12):3122–6. https://doi.org/10.1093/humrep/del160.
Ronda E, Garcia AM, Sanchez-Paya J, Moen BE. Menstrual disorders and subfertility in Spanish hairdressers. Eur J Obstet Gynecol Reprod Biol. 2009;147(1):61–4. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ejogrb.2009.07.020.
Harling M, Schablon A, Schedlbauer G, Dulon M, Nienhaus A. Bladder cancer among hairdressers: a meta-analysis. Occup Environ Med. 2010;67(5):351–8. https://doi.org/10.1136/oem.2009.050195.
Duong A, Steinmaus C, McHale CM, Vaughan CP, Zhang L. Reproductive and developmental toxicity of formaldehyde: a systematic review. Mutat Res. 2011;728(3):118–38. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.mrrev.2011.07.003.
Hannigan JH, Bowen SE. Reproductive toxicology and teratology of abused toluene. Syst Biol Reprod Med. 2010;56(2):184–200. https://doi.org/10.3109/19396360903377195.
Ono A, Kawashima K, Sekita K, Hirose A, Ogawa Y, Saito M, Naito K, Yasuhara K, Kaneko T, Furuya T, Inoue T, Kurokawa Y. Toluene inhalation induced epididymal sperm dysfunction in rats. Toxicology. 1999;139(3):193–205. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0300-483X(99)00120-1.
Gospe SM Jr, Zhou SS. Toluene abuse embryopathy: longitudinal neurodevelopmental effects of prenatal exposure to toluene in rats. Reprod Toxicol. 1998;12(2):119–26. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0890-6238(97)00128-7.
Ahmed P, Jaakkola JJ. Exposure to organic solvents and adverse pregnancy outcomes. Hum Reprod. 2007;22(10):2751–7. https://doi.org/10.1093/humrep/dem200.
Boberg J, Taxvig C, Christiansen S, Hass U. Possible endocrine disrupting effects of parabens and their metabolites. Reprod Toxicol. 2010;30(2):301–12. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.reprotox.2010.03.011.
Crinnion WJ. Toxic effects of the easily avoidable phthalates and parabens. Altern Med Rev. 2010;15(3):190–6.
Park CJ, Nah WH, Lee JE, Oh YS, Gye MC. Butyl paraben-induced changes in DNA methylation in rat epididymal spermatozoa. Andrologia. 2012;44(Suppl 1):187–93. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1439-0272.2011.01162.x.
Khanna S, Darbre PD. Parabens enable suspension growth of MCF-10A immortalized, non-transformed human breast epithelial cells. J Appl Toxicol. 2013;33(5):378–82. https://doi.org/10.1002/jat.2753.
Wrobel A, Gregoraszczuk EL. Effects of single and repeated in vitro exposure of three forms of parabens, methyl-, butyl- and propylparabens on the proliferation and estradiol secretion in MCF-7 and MCF-10A cells. Pharmacol Rep. 2013;65(2):484–93. https://doi.org/10.1016/S1734-1140(13)71024-7.
Konduracka E, Krzemieniecki K, Gajos G. Relationship between everyday use cosmetics and female breast cancer. Pol Arch Med Wewn. 2014;124(5):264–9.
Baran R, Maibach HI, editors. Textbook of cosmetic dermatology. 5th ed. Boca Raton: CRC Press; 2017.
Barel AO, Paye M, Maibach HI, editors. Handbook of cosmetic science and technology. 4th ed. Boca Raton: CRC Press; 2014.
Berardesca E, Elsner P, Wilhelm K-P, Maibach HI, editors. Bioengineering of the skin: methods and instrumentation. Boca Raton: CRC Press; 1995.
Elsner P, Berardesca E, Maibach HI, editors. Bioengineering of the skin: water and the stratum corneum. Boca Raton: CRC; 1994.
Elsner P, Berardesca E, Wilhelm K-P, Maibach HI, editors. Bioengineering of the skin: skin biomechanics. Boca Raton: CRC Press; 2002.
Fluhr J, Elsner P, Berardesca E, Maibach HI, editors. Bioengineering of the skin. Water and the stratum corneum. 2nd ed. Boca Raton: CRC Press; 2004.
Shai A, Maibach HI, Baran R, editors. Handbook of cosmetic skin care. 2nd ed. Boca Raton: CRC Press; 2009.
Sivamani RK, Jagdeo JR, Elsner P, Maibach HI, editors. Cosmeceuticals and active cosmetics. 3rd ed. Boca Raton: CRC Press; 2016.
Wilhelm K-P, Elsner P, Berardesca E, Maibach HI, editors. Bioengineering of the skin: skin imaging & analysis. 2nd ed. New York: Informa; 2007.
Wilhelm K-P, Elsner P, Berardesca E, Maibach HI, editors. Bioengineering of the skin: skin surface imaging and analysis. Boca Raton: CRC Press; 1996.
Lazzarini R, Duarte I, de Farias DC, Santos CA, Tsai AI. Frequency and main sites of allergic contact dermatitis caused by nail varnish. Dermatitis. 2008;19(6):319–22. https://doi.org/10.2310/6620.2008.08009.
Rietschel RL, Warshaw EM, Sasseville D, Fowler JF, DeLeo VA, Belsito DV, Taylor JS, Storrs FJ, Mathias CG, Maibach HI, Marks JG, Zug KA, Pratt M, North American Contact Dermatitis Group. Common contact allergens associated with eyelid dermatitis: data from the North American Contact Dermatitis Group 2003–2004 study period. Dermatitis. 2007;18(2):78–81. https://doi.org/10.2310/6620.2007.06041.
Rietschel RL, Fowler JF, editors. Fisher’s contact dermatitis. 6th ed. Hamilton: BC Decker; 2008.
Brandrup F. Nickel eyelid dermatitis from an eyelash curler. Contact Dermatitis. 1991;25(1):77. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0536.1991.tb01788.x.
Guin JD. Eyelid dermatitis: experience in 203 cases. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2002;47(5):755–65. https://doi.org/10.1067/mjd.2002.122736.
Le Coz CJ, Leclere JM, Arnoult E, Raison-Peyron N, Pons-Guiraud A, Vigan M, Members of R-G. Allergic contact dermatitis from shellac in mascara. Contact Dermatitis. 2002;46(3):149–52. https://doi.org/10.1034/j.1600-0536.2002.460304.x.
Shaw T, Oostman H, Rainey D, Storrs F. A rare eyelid dermatitis allergen: shellac in a popular mascara. Dermatitis. 2009;20(6):341–5. https://doi.org/10.2310/6620.2009.09009.
Occupational Safety and Health Administration. Stay healthy and safe while giving manicures and pedicures: A guide for nail salon workers. (n.d.b). Retrieved from: www.osha.gov/Publications/3542nail-salon-workers-guide.pdf.
Jacob SE, Castanedo-Tardan MP. A diagnostic pearl in allergic contact dermatitis to fragrances: the atomizer sign. Cutis. 2008;82(5):317–8.
Warshaw EM, Furda LM, Maibach HI, Rietschel RL, Fowler JF Jr, Belsito DV, Zug KA, DeLeo VA, Marks JG Jr, Mathias CG, Pratt MD, Sasseville D, Storrs FJ, Taylor JS. Anogenital dermatitis in patients referred for patch testing: retrospective analysis of cross-sectional data from the North American Contact Dermatitis Group, 1994-2004. Arch Dermatol. 2008;144(6):749–55. https://doi.org/10.1001/archderm.144.6.749.
Bhate K, Landeck L, Gonzalez E, Neumann K, Schalock PC. Genital contact dermatitis: a retrospective analysis. Dermatitis. 2010;21(6):317–20. https://doi.org/10.2310/6620.2010.10048.
Kugler K, Brinkmeier T, Frosch PJ, Uter W. Anogenital dermatoses—allergic and irritative causative factors. Analysis of IVDK data and review of the literature. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2005;3(12):979–86. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1610-0387.2005.05763.x.
Vermaat H, Smienk F, Rustemeyer T, Bruynzeel DP, Kirtschig G. Anogenital allergic contact dermatitis, the role of spices and flavour allergy. Contact Dermatitis. 2008;59(4):233–7. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0536.2008.01417.x.
Vermaat H, van Meurs T, Rustemeyer T, Bruynzeel DP, Kirtschig G. Vulval allergic contact dermatitis due to peppermint oil in herbal tea. Contact Dermatitis. 2008;58(6):364–5. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0536.2007.01270.x.
Ames BN, McCann J, Yamasaki E. Methods for detecting carcinogens and mutagens with the Salmonella/mammalian-microsome mutagenicity test. Mutat Res. 1975;31(6):347–64. https://doi.org/10.1016/0165-1161(75)90046-1.
National Toxicology Program. Final report on carcinogens: Background document for formaldehyde. 2010 Retrieved from: http://ntp.niehs.nih.gov/ntp/roc/twelfth/2009/November/Formaldehyde_BD_Final.pdf.
Nicolopoulou-Stamati P, Hens L, Sasco AJ. Cosmetics as endocrine disruptors: are they a health risk? Rev Endocr Metab Disord. 2015;16(4):373–83. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11154-016-9329-4.
Occupational Safety and Health Administration. Health hazards in nail salons. (n.d.a). Retrieved from: www.osha.gov/SLTC/nailsalons/chemicalhazards.html.
Occupational Safety and Health Administration. Health hazards in nail salons. 2013 Retrieved from: www.osha.gov/SLTC/nailsalons/chemicalhazards.html.
Nedorost S, Wagman A. Positive patch-test reactions to gold: patients’ perception of relevance and the role of titanium dioxide in cosmetics. Dermatitis. 2005;16(2):67–70 (quiz 55–66).
Pak VM, McCauley LA, Pinto-Martin J. Phthalate exposures and human health concerns: a review and implications for practice. AAOHN J. 2011;59(5):228–33. https://doi.org/10.3928/08910162-20110426-01 (quiz 234–225).
Pak VM, Powers M, Liu J. Occupational chemical exposures among cosmetologists: risk of reproductive disorders. Workplace Health Saf. 2013;61(12):522–8. https://doi.org/10.3928/21650799-20131121-01 (quiz 529).
Rastogi SC. Analytical control of preservative labelling on skin creams. Contact Dermatitis. 2000;43(6):339–43. https://doi.org/10.1034/j.1600-0536.2000.043006339.x.
Research and Markets: Global Cosmetics Market 2015–2020: Market was $460 Billion in 2014 and is Estimated to Reach $675 Billion by 2020 [database on the Internet] 2015. Available from: https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20150727005524/en/Research-Markets-Global-Cosmetics-Market-2015-2020-Market. Accessed Nov 2017.
Roelofs C, Azaroff LS, Holcroft C, Nguyen H, Doan T. Results from a community-based occupational health survey of Vietnamese-American nail salon workers. J Immigr Minor Health. 2008;10(4):353–61. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10903-007-9084-4.
World Health Organization, International Agency for Research on Cancer. IARC monographs on the evaluation of carcinogenic risks to humans: volume 57. Occupational exposures of hairdressers and barbers and personal use of hair colourants; some hair dyes, cosmetic colourants, industrial dyestuffs and aromatic amines. 1993 Retrieved from http://monographs.iarc.fr/ENG/Monographs/vol57/volume57.pdf.
World Health Organization, International Agency for Research on Cancer. IARC monographs on the evaluation of carcinogenic risks to humans: volume 88. Formaldehyde, 2-butoxyethanol and 1-tert-butoxypropan-2-ol. 2006 Retrieved from: http://monographs.iarc.fr/ENG/Monographs/vol88/mono88.pdf.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2019 Springer Nature Switzerland AG
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Li, B.S., Cary, J.H., Maibach, H.I. (2019). Science Behind Cosmetics and Skin Care. In: Cornier, J., Keck, C., Van de Voorde, M. (eds) Nanocosmetics. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-16573-4_1
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-16573-4_1
Published:
Publisher Name: Springer, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-030-16572-7
Online ISBN: 978-3-030-16573-4
eBook Packages: Chemistry and Materials ScienceChemistry and Material Science (R0)