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Selfies and Purikura as Affective, Aesthetic Labor

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Exploring the Selfie

Abstract

Is the selfie a sign of conformity, narcissism, and adjustment to a group mentality and to a machine-produced, highly stereotypical imagery circulating in contemporary consumer society? Or is it the opposite: Can we speak of a free, creative, even transgressive play with identity, gender, sexuality, and the body? These dual, opposing approaches seem to characterize much of the discussion on the phenomenon. The aim of this chapter is to bridge this duality or, rather, approach the issue from a different angle, by looking at the selfie as—using a phrase by Raymond Williams—a “structure of feeling.” The selfie is a multiple, not fully demarcabable term that therefore needs to be both contextualized and studied in its specific subgenres. By narrowing the focus to a precursor and a subgenre of the selfie, the Japanese purikura, the chapter explores the social value of this kind of photography and the kind of emotional affect it produces. In doing so it draws on thinkers in recent Postfeminist as well as Affect Studies who have turned their interest toward “positive affect and the politics of good feeling,” as Sara Ahmed has put it. Therefore, the chapter looks at the selfie as an aesthetic expression of affect and argues for an open and dialectical approach to popular photography genres such as the selfie with regard to both the stereotypical and the liberating aspects of vernacular self-portraiture. The main argument posits the selfie—via its sub- or sister category, purikura—as a form of productive, affective, aesthetic labor or performative world making in today’s postmodern, capitalist, high-tech-dominated consumer society.

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Notes

  1. 1.

    Recently researchers have debated whether a self-portrait by Robert Cornelius, owned by the Smithsonian Institution, was made before or after Bayard’s initial experiments (see, e.g., Gunthert 2013; The Public Domain Review 2013).

  2. 2.

    See, e.g., Houghton et al. (2013). For authors in popular media underlining negative aspects such as narcissism and consumer culture, see, e.g., Acocella (2014) or Carr (2015). I found the references to Acocella and Carr in an article by Derek Conrad Murray (2015), who, not unlike myself, wants to “produce a productive counter-reading of the ‘selfie’” (491). Other academic studies (Burns 2015) focus on the selfie as a disciplining form stigmatizing the (female) posers, or highlight the term “selfie” as “caught in a stubborn and morally loaded hype cycle” (Senft and Baym 2015, 1588).

  3. 3.

    For instance, this term is often used by Sianne Ngai in her book Our Aesthetic Categories (2012), which I will come back to.

  4. 4.

    I have written on this elsewhere; e.g., Sandbye (2013) and (2014a).

  5. 5.

    One could also compare the purikura with playful Western photo booth imagery produced since the 1920s, both as a vernacular practice (though to a much lesser degree than purikura) and as an artistic genre, in which artists investigate and play with the “narrow” aesthetic format imposed on them by the booth. Among many books on this practice, see, e.g., Pellicer (2011). The aesthetics of this dying format of the photo booth have also been revitalized recently through Instagram filters and digital image formats. These re-remediations of older formats and reformulations of older aesthetic “looks” in contemporary digital forms is a subject worth studying, but it is beyond the scope of this chapter.

  6. 6.

    I borrow this description from one of my earlier articles on purikura (Sandbye 2014b).

  7. 7.

    See the hashtag #ugly selfies, e.g., at: https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/uglyselfies/ (accessed March 23, 2017).

  8. 8.

    Ten students from the Kanda Institute of Foreign Language (Kanda Gaigo Gakuin), Junior College, in Tokyo between the age of 18 and 21. A class of bachelor students in their early 20s from Waseda University, School of International Liberal Studies.

  9. 9.

    Hal Foster (1996) was also inspired by Lacan’s theory of the visual in his The Return of the Real, which came out the same year as Silverman’s book, and like Silverman he was inspired by Lacan’s Four Fundamental Concepts of Psychoanalysis.

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Sandbye, M. (2018). Selfies and Purikura as Affective, Aesthetic Labor. In: Eckel, J., Ruchatz, J., Wirth, S. (eds) Exploring the Selfie. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-57949-8_14

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