Abstract
Is the selfie a sign of conformity, narcissism, and adjustment to a group mentality and to a machine-produced, highly stereotypical imagery circulating in contemporary consumer society? Or is it the opposite: Can we speak of a free, creative, even transgressive play with identity, gender, sexuality, and the body? These dual, opposing approaches seem to characterize much of the discussion on the phenomenon. The aim of this chapter is to bridge this duality or, rather, approach the issue from a different angle, by looking at the selfie as—using a phrase by Raymond Williams—a “structure of feeling.” The selfie is a multiple, not fully demarcabable term that therefore needs to be both contextualized and studied in its specific subgenres. By narrowing the focus to a precursor and a subgenre of the selfie, the Japanese purikura, the chapter explores the social value of this kind of photography and the kind of emotional affect it produces. In doing so it draws on thinkers in recent Postfeminist as well as Affect Studies who have turned their interest toward “positive affect and the politics of good feeling,” as Sara Ahmed has put it. Therefore, the chapter looks at the selfie as an aesthetic expression of affect and argues for an open and dialectical approach to popular photography genres such as the selfie with regard to both the stereotypical and the liberating aspects of vernacular self-portraiture. The main argument posits the selfie—via its sub- or sister category, purikura—as a form of productive, affective, aesthetic labor or performative world making in today’s postmodern, capitalist, high-tech-dominated consumer society.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Notes
- 1.
- 2.
See, e.g., Houghton et al. (2013). For authors in popular media underlining negative aspects such as narcissism and consumer culture, see, e.g., Acocella (2014) or Carr (2015). I found the references to Acocella and Carr in an article by Derek Conrad Murray (2015), who, not unlike myself, wants to “produce a productive counter-reading of the ‘selfie’” (491). Other academic studies (Burns 2015) focus on the selfie as a disciplining form stigmatizing the (female) posers, or highlight the term “selfie” as “caught in a stubborn and morally loaded hype cycle” (Senft and Baym 2015, 1588).
- 3.
For instance, this term is often used by Sianne Ngai in her book Our Aesthetic Categories (2012), which I will come back to.
- 4.
- 5.
One could also compare the purikura with playful Western photo booth imagery produced since the 1920s, both as a vernacular practice (though to a much lesser degree than purikura) and as an artistic genre, in which artists investigate and play with the “narrow” aesthetic format imposed on them by the booth. Among many books on this practice, see, e.g., Pellicer (2011). The aesthetics of this dying format of the photo booth have also been revitalized recently through Instagram filters and digital image formats. These re-remediations of older formats and reformulations of older aesthetic “looks” in contemporary digital forms is a subject worth studying, but it is beyond the scope of this chapter.
- 6.
I borrow this description from one of my earlier articles on purikura (Sandbye 2014b).
- 7.
See the hashtag #ugly selfies, e.g., at: https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/uglyselfies/ (accessed March 23, 2017).
- 8.
Ten students from the Kanda Institute of Foreign Language (Kanda Gaigo Gakuin), Junior College, in Tokyo between the age of 18 and 21. A class of bachelor students in their early 20s from Waseda University, School of International Liberal Studies.
- 9.
Hal Foster (1996) was also inspired by Lacan’s theory of the visual in his The Return of the Real, which came out the same year as Silverman’s book, and like Silverman he was inspired by Lacan’s Four Fundamental Concepts of Psychoanalysis.
Bibliography
Acocella, Joan. 2014. Selfie. How Big a Problem Is Narcissism? NewYorker.com , May 12. Accessed December 30, 2015. http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2014/05/12/selfie
Ahmed, Sara. 2010. Happy Objects. In The Affect Theory Reader, ed. Melissa Gregg and Gregory J. Seigworth, 29–51. London: Duke University Press.
Barthes, Roland. (1980) 1981. Camera Lucida: Reflections on Photography. New York, NY: Hill and Wang.
Burns, Anne. 2015. Self(ie)-Discipline: Social Regulation as Enacted Through the Discussion of Photographic Practice. International Journal of Communication 9: 1716–1733. http://ijoc.org/index.php/ijoc/article/view/3138/1395.
Carr, David. 2015. Selfies on a Stick, and the Social-Content Challenge for the Media. NYTimes.com , January 4. Accessed December 30, 2015. http://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/05/business/media/selfies-on-a-stick-and-the-social-content-challenge-for-the-media.html?_r=0
Carville, Justin. 2007. ‘My Wallet of Photographs’: Photography, Ethnography and Visual Hegemony in John Millington Synge’s The Aran Islands. Irish Journal of Anthropology 10 (1): 5–11.
Chalfen, Richard, and Mai Murui. 2004. Print Club Photography in Japan: Framing Social Relationships. In Photographs. Objects. Histories. On the Materiality of Images, ed. Elizabeth Edwards and Janice Hart, 166–185. New York, NY: Routledge. [Orig. published 2001 in Visual Sociology 16 (1): 55–77].
Debord, Guy. (1967) 1990. The Society of the Spectacle. London: Verso.
Foster, Hal. 1996. The Return of the Real. Cambridge, MA: MIT Press.
Frosh, Paul. 2015. The Gestural Image: The Selfie, Photography Theory, and Kinesthetic Sociability. International Journal of Communication 9: 1607–1628. http://ijoc.org/index.php/ijoc/article/view/3146/1388.
Gómez Cruz, Edgar, and Helen Thornham. 2015. Selfies Beyond Self-representation: The (theoretical) F(r)ictions of a Practice. Journal of Aesthetics & Culture 7 (1): 1–10. https://doi.org/10.3402/jac.v7.28073.
Gregg, Melissa, and Gregory J. Seigworth, eds. 2010. The Affect Theory Reader. London: Duke University Press.
Gunthert, André. 2013. Les autoportraits d’Hippolyte Bayard. L’Atelier des icônes—Le carnet de recherche d’André Gunthert, December 3. Accessed September 16, 2016. http://histoirevisuelle.fr/cv/icones/2865
Houghton, David, Adam Joinson, Nigel Caldwell, and Ben Marder. 2013. Tagger’s Delight? Disclosure and Liking in Facebook: The Effects of Sharing Photographs Amongst Multiple Known Social Circles. Discussion Paper. Birmingham: University of Birmingham. http://epapers.bham.ac.uk/1723/
Lasén, Amparo. 2015. Digital Self-Portraits, Exposure and the Modulation of Intimacy. In Mobile and Digital Communication: Approaches to Public and Private, ed. José Ricardo Carvalheiro and Ana Serrano Tellería, 61–78. Covilhã: LabCom. http://www.labcom-ifp.ubi.pt/ficheiros/20150707-2015_12_public_private.pdf.
Matsui, Midori. 2005. Beyond the Pleasure Room to a Chaotic Street. Transformations of the Cute Subculture in the Art of the Japanese Nineties. In Little Boy. The Arts of Japan’s Exploding Subculture, ed. Takashi Murakami, 209–239. New Haven: Yale University Press.
Michelsen, Anders, and Frederik Tygstrup. 2015. Introduction. In Socioaesthetics. Ambience—Imaginary, ed. Anders Michelsen and Frederik Tygstrup, 1–24. Leiden: Brill.
Miller, Laura. 2003. Graffiti Photos: Expressive Art in Japanese Girls’ Culture. Harvard Asia Quarterly 7 (3): 31–42.
———. 2005. Bad Girl Photography. In Bad Girls of Japan, ed. Laura Miller and Jan Bardsley, 127–141. New York, NY: Palgrave Macmillan.
Murray, Derek Conrad. 2015. Notes to Self: The Visual Culture of Selfies in the Age of Social Media. Consumption Markets & Culture 18 (6): 490–516. https://doi.org/10.1080/10253866.2015.1052967.
Ngai, Sianne. 2007. Ugly Feelings. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press.
———. 2012. Our Aesthetic Categories. Zany, Cute, Interesting. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press.
Oxford Dictionaries. 2013. The Oxford Dictionaries Word of the Year 2013 Selfie. (Press Release—Word of the Year), November 19. Accessed August 30, 2016. http://blog.oxforddictionaries.com/press-releases/oxford-dictionaries-word-of-the-year-2013
Pellicer, Raynald. 2011. Photobooth: The Art of the Automatic Portrait. New York, NY: Harry N. Abrams.
Sandbye, Mette. 2013. The Family Photo Album as Transformed Social Space in the Age of “Web 2.0.” In Throughout. Art and Culture Emerging with Ubiquitous Computing, ed. Ulrik Ekman, 103–118. Cambridge, MA: MIT Press.
———. 2014a. Looking at the Family Photo Album. A Resumed Theoretical Discussion of Why and How. Journal of Aesthetics & Culture 6. https://doi.org/10.3402/jac.v6.25419.
———. 2014b. Play, Process and Materiality in Japanese Purikura Photography. In Digital Snaps. The New Face of Photography, ed. Jonas Larsen and Mette Sandbye, 109–130. London: I.B. Tauris.
Senft, Theresa, and Nancy Baym. 2015. What Does the Selfie Say? Investigating a Global Phenomenon. Introduction. International Journal of Communication 9: 1588–1606. http://ijoc.org/index.php/ijoc/article/view/4067/1387.
Silverman, Kaja. 1996. The Threshold of the Visible World. New York, NY: Routledge.
Sontag, Susan. 1977. On Photography. New York, NY: Farrar, Straus and Giroux.
Steinmetz, Katy. 2012. Top 10 Everything of 2012. Top 10 Buzzwords. 9. Selfie. Time.com , December 4. Accessed March 7, 2017. http://newsfeed.time.com/2012/12/04/top-10-news-lists/slide/selfie/
The Public Domain Review. 2013. Robert Cornelius’ Self-Portrait: The First Ever “Selfie” (1839). Accessed July 16, 2016. http://publicdomainreview.org/collections/robert-cornelius-self-portrait-the-first-ever-selfie-1839
Thrift, Nigel. 2010. Understanding the Material Practices of Glamour. In The Affect Theory Reader, ed. Melissa Gregg and Gregory J. Seigworth, 289–308. London: Duke University Press.
Williams, Raymond. 1977. Structures of Feeling. In Marxism and Literature, 128–135. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2018 The Author(s)
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Sandbye, M. (2018). Selfies and Purikura as Affective, Aesthetic Labor. In: Eckel, J., Ruchatz, J., Wirth, S. (eds) Exploring the Selfie. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-57949-8_14
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-57949-8_14
Published:
Publisher Name: Palgrave Macmillan, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-319-57948-1
Online ISBN: 978-3-319-57949-8
eBook Packages: Literature, Cultural and Media StudiesLiterature, Cultural and Media Studies (R0)