Skip to main content

Sustainable Textile Wet Processing: Applications of Enzymes

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing

Part of the book series: Textile Science and Clothing Technology ((TSCT))

Abstract

Enzymes are a sustainable alternative to the harsh toxic chemicals in the textile industry. As enzymes operate in moderate conditions of temperature and pH, energy consumption is reduced, thereby reducing greenhouse gas emissions. Both water consumption and waste generation during textile manufacturing are also minimized by enzyme use. As the enzymes are very specific in their actions, minimum by-products are generated. The risks to humans, wildlife, and the environment are minimized. Enzymes can be utilized in several steps of textile processing namely desizing, scouring, bleaching, and biopolishing of cotton, degumming of silk, bleaching and shrinkproofing of wool, biostoning (of denim), and for treatment of textile effluents.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 84.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 129.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 109.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

References

  1. Abadulla E, Robra KH, Gubitz GM, Silva LM, Cavaco-Paulo A (2000) Enzymatic decoloration of textile dyeing effluents. Text Res J 70:409–414

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  2. Amorim AM, Gasques MDG, Andreaus J, Scharf M (2002) The application of catalase for the elimination of hydrogen peroxide residues after bleaching of cotton fabrics. An Acad Bras Cienc (Brasil) 74(3):433–436

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  3. Anastas P, Warner JC (1998) Green chemistry, theory and practice. Oxford University Press, New York

    Google Scholar 

  4. Arami M, Rahimi S, Mivehie L, Mazaheri F, Mahmoodi NM (2007) Degumming of Persian silk with mixed proteolytic enzymes. J Appl Polym Sci 106:267–275

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  5. Araújo R, Casal M, Cavaco-Paulo A (2008) Application of enzymes for textile fibers processing. Biocatal Biotransform 26(5):332–349

    Article  Google Scholar 

  6. Barreca AM, Fabbrini M, Galli C, Gentili P, Ljunggren S (2003) Laccase-mediated oxidation of lignin model for improved delignification procedures. J Mol Catal B Enzym 26:105–110

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  7. Biotimes (1997) The end of the stone age. www.biotimes.com

  8. Bourbonnais R, Paice MG, Freiermuth B, Bodie E, Borneman S (1997) Reactivities of various mediators and laccases with kraft pulp and lignin model compounds. Appl Environ Microbiol 63:4627–4632

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  9. Boyer R (2002) Concepts in biochemistry, 2nd edn. Wiley, New York, pp 137–138. ISBN: 0-470-00379-0. OCLC 51720783

    Google Scholar 

  10. Breier R (2002) Enzymatische Antifilzausrüstung von Wolle. Textilveredlung 36:5–10

    Google Scholar 

  11. Cardamone JM, Yao J, Phillips JG (2005) Combined bleaching, shrinkage prevention, and biopolishing of wool fabrics. Textile Res J 75(2):169–174

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  12. Carvalho CML, Aires-Barros MR, Cabral JMS (1998) Cutinase structure, function and biocatalytic applications. EJB Electron J Biotechnol 1(3):160–173

    Article  Google Scholar 

  13. Cavaco-Paulo A, Gübitz GM (eds) (2003) Textile processing with enzymes. Woodhead, Cambridge

    Google Scholar 

  14. Chen J, Wang Q, Hua Z, Du G (2006) Research and application of biotechnology in textile industries in China, www.aseanbiotechnology.info/Abstract/21026447.pdf

  15. Ciampi L, Forster O, Haefely HR, Knauseder F (1996) Enzymatic treatment of wool. Patent US 5529928

    Google Scholar 

  16. Cortez JM, Ellis J, Bishop DP (2001) Cellulase finishing of woven cotton fabrics. J. Biotechnology 89:239–245

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  17. Couto SR, Toca-Herrera JL (2006) Laccases in the textile industry. Biotechnol Mol Biol Rev 1(4):115–120

    Google Scholar 

  18. Das T, Ramaswamy GN (2006) Enzyme treatment of wool and specialty hair fibers. Text Res J 76(2): 126–132. doi:10.1177/0040517506063387

  19. Durán N, Durán M (2000) Enzyme applications in the textile industry. Rev Prog Color 30:41–44

    Article  Google Scholar 

  20. Elnashar MMM (2010) Review article: immobilized molecules using biomaterials and nanobiotechnology. J Biomater Nanobiotechnol 1:61–77. doi:10.4236/jbnb.2010.11008

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  21. El-Sayed W, Nofala R, El-Sayedb H (2010) Use of lipoprotein lipase in the improvement of some properties of wool fabrics. Color Technol 126:296–302

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  22. Enzyme Technical Association (ETA) (2000). TCC & ADR 32(1): 26–27

    Google Scholar 

  23. Erlacher A, Sousa F, Schroeder M, Jus S, Kokol V, Cavaco-Paulo A, Guebitz GM (2006) A new cuticle scale hydrolysing protease from Beauveria brongniartii. Biotechnol Lett 28:703–710

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  24. Fabbrini M, Galli C, Gentili P, Macchitella D (2001) An oxidation of alcohols by oxygen with the enzyme laccase and mediation by TEMPO. Tetrahedron Lett 42:7551–7553

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  25. Fischer E (1894) Einfluss der configuration auf die Wirkung der Enzyme. Ber DtChem Ges 27(3):2985–93. doi:10.1002/cber.18940270364

  26. Fischer-Colbrie G, Herrmann M, Heumann S, Puolakka A, Wirth A, Cavaco-Paulo A, Guebitz GM (2006) Surface modification of polyacrylonitrile with nitrile hydratase and amidase from Agrobacterium tumefaciens. Biocatal Biotransform 24(6):419–425

    Google Scholar 

  27. Fornelli S (1994) Enzymatic treatments of proteic fibers. Melliand Textilber 75:120–125

    Google Scholar 

  28. Fritz-Langhals E, Kunath B (1998) Synthesis of aromatic aldehydes by laccase-mediator assisted oxidation. Tetrahedron Lett 39:5955–5956

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  29. Fu Y, Viraraghavan T (2001) Removal of CI acid blue 29 from an aqueous solution by Aspergillus niger. AATCC Review 1(1):36–40

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  30. Galante YM, Formantici C (2003) Enzyme applications in detergency and in manufacturing industries. Curr Org Chem 7:1399–1422

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  31. Goncalves IMC, Gomes A, Bras R, Ferra MIA, Amorin MTP, Porter RS (2000) Biological treatment of effluent containing textile dyes. JSDC 116:393–397

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  32. Gűebitz GM, Cavaco-Paulo A (2008) Enzymes go big: surface hydrolysis and functionalisation of synthetic polymer. Trend Biotechnol 26(1):32–38

    Article  Google Scholar 

  33. Gulrajani ML (1992) Degumming of silk. Rev Prog Color 22:79–89

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  34. Hardin IR, Cao H, Wilson SS (2000) TCC & ADR 32(11):38–42

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  35. Harnden A, Donnelly MJ, York J (2001) Laboratory- and commercial-scale investigations into the action of cellulose enzymes on Tencel. Color Technol 117:217–224

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  36. Hasunuma T, Fukusaki EI, Kobayashi A (2003) Methanol production is enhanced by expression of an Aspergillus niger pectin methylesterase in tobacco cells. J Biotechnol 106:45–52

    Google Scholar 

  37. Hebeish A, Hashem M, Shaker N, Ramadan M, El-Sadek B, Hady MA (2012) Cellulase enzyme in bio-fînishing of cotton-based fabrics: effects of process parameters. RITA 16(3):57–60

    Google Scholar 

  38. Holmes I (1998) Recent advances in chemical processing. Colourage 45(annual):41–56

    Google Scholar 

  39. Ibrahim NA, Gouda M, El-Shafei AM, Abdel DM (2007) Antimicrobial activity of cotton fabric containing immobilized enzyme. J Appl Polymer Sci 104(3):1754–1761

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  40. Jensen Niels P (2000) Catalase enzyme, Chemist & Colorist & American Dyestuff Reporter. 32(5):23–24

    Google Scholar 

  41. Kamphuis IG, Kalk KH, Swarte MBA, Drenth J (1984) Structure of papain refined at 1.65A° resolution. J Molec Biol 179:233–256

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  42. Kan CW, Yuen CWM, Lam YL (2009) Effect of enzyme treatment and dyeing on the mechanical properties of linen. Color Technol 125:269–276

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  43. Karmakar SR (1998) Application of biotechnology in the pre-treatment process of textiles. Colourage Annu 45:75–86

    Google Scholar 

  44. Kersten PJ, Kalyanaraman B, Hammel KE, Reinhammar B, Kirk TK (1990) Comparison of lignin peroxidase, horseradish peroxidase and laccase in the oxidation of methoxybenzenes. Biochem J 268(2):475–480

    Google Scholar 

  45. Koshland DE (1958) Application of a theory of enzyme specificity to protein synthesis. Proc Natl Acad Sci USA 44(2):98–104. doi:10.1073/pnas.44.2.98

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  46. Kumar VS, Meenakshisundaram S, Selvakumar N (2008) Conservation of cellulase enzyme in biopolishing application of cotton fabrics. J Text Inst 99(4):339–346

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  47. Kundu AB, Ghosh BS, Chakrabarti SK, Ghosh BL (1991) Enhanced bleaching and softening of jute by pretreatment with polysaccharide degrading enzymes. Textile Res J 61:720

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  48. Lange NK (2000) Biopreparation in action. Int Dyer 185(2):18–22

    Google Scholar 

  49. Lantto R, Schänberg C, Buchert J (2004) Effects of laccase-mediator combination on wool. Textile Res J 74:713–717

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  50. Leitat (2013) Biotechnology and microbiology in textile sector, www.t-pot.eu/docs/Workshops/LEITAT_6_Biotechnology.pdf. Accessed 9 March 2013. Leitat, Terrassa, Bercelona, Spain

  51. Lenin V, Kandasamy N, Karthick S, Kanipriya M (2009) Enzymes in textile finishing. Man-Made Text India 52(1):7–10

    Google Scholar 

  52. Li K, Xu F, Eriksson K-HL (1999) Comparison of fungal laccases and redox mediators in oxidation of a nonphenolic lignin model compound. Environ Microbiol 65:2654–2660

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  53. Li Y, Hardin IR (1998) Enzymatic scouring of cotton—surfactants, agitation, and selection of enzymes. Text Chem Colorist 30(9):23–29

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  54. Liu Z, Duan S, Sun Q, Peng Y, Feng X, Zheng K, Hu Z, Zhang Y (2012) A rapid process of ramie bio-degumming by Pectobacterium sp. CXJZU-120. Text Res J 82(15):1553–1559

    Article  Google Scholar 

  55. Losonczi A, Csiszár E, Szakács G and Bezúr L (2005) Role of the EDTA chelating agent in bioscouring of cotton. Text Res J 75:411. doi:10.1177/0040517505053812

  56. Matama T, Cavaco-Paulo A (2010) Enzymatic modification of polyacrylnitrile and cellulose acetate fiber for textile and other applications. In: Cavaco-Paulo A, Nierstrastrasz VA (eds) Advances in textile biotechnology. Woodhead, Cambridge

    Google Scholar 

  57. Meyer-Stork LS (2002) Enzymanwendungen in der Textilindustrie: Möglichkeiten,-Grenzen—Potenziale. Maschen-Industrie 52(5):32–35

    Google Scholar 

  58. Mueller S, Ruedel HD, Stemmel W (1997) Determination of catalase activity at physiological hydrogen peroxide concentrations. Analyt Biochem 245:50–60

    Article  Google Scholar 

  59. Nechwatal A, Blokesch A, Nicolai M, Krieg M, Kolbe A, Wolf M, Gerhardt M (2006) A contribution to the investigation of enzyme-catalysed hydrolysis of poly(ethyleneterephthalate) oligomers. Macromol Mater Eng 291:1486–1494

    Google Scholar 

  60. Nielsen PH, Kuilderd H, Zhou W, Lu X (2009) Enzyme biotechnology for sustainable textiles” in sustainable textiles. Woodhead, Cambridge, pp 113–138

    Google Scholar 

  61. Nierstrasz VA, Langenhove LV, Kiekens P (2009) Biotechnological modification and functionalisation of polyester surfaces. In: AUTEX 2009 world textile conference, Ðzmir, Turkey 26–28 May 2009

    Google Scholar 

  62. OECD (1998) ‘Evaluating the cleanliness of biotechnological industrial products and processes In: Biotechnology for clean industrial products and processes—towards industrial sustainability, OECD, Paris

    Google Scholar 

  63. Opwis K, Knittel D, Bahners T, Schollmeyer E (2005) Photochemical immobilization of enzymes on textile carrier materials, article first published online: 31 Jan 2005. Eng Life Sci 5(1):63–67 doi:10.1002/elsc.200420058

  64. Opwis K, Knittel D, Schollmeyer E (2008) Use of enzymes in the pre-treatment of cotton, www.aidic.it/IBIC2008/webpapers/2Opwis.pdf. Accessed 5 Dec 2013

  65. Parmar A, Kumar H, Marwaha SS, Kennedy JF (2000) Advances in enzymatic transformation of penicillins to 6-aminopenicillanic acid (6-APA). Biotechnol Adv 18(4):289–301

    Google Scholar 

  66. Parvinzadeh M (2009) A new approach to improve dyeability of nylon 6 fiber using a subtilisin enzyme. Color Technol 125:228–233

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  67. Paulo AC (1998) Mechanism of cellulase action in textile processes. Carbohydr Polym 37:273–277

    Article  Google Scholar 

  68. Pawar SB, Shah HD, Andhorika GR (2002) Man-Made Text India 45(4):133

    Google Scholar 

  69. Pazarloglu NK, Sariisik M, Telefoncu A (2005) Laccase: production by Trametes versicolor and application to denim washing. Process Biochem 40:1673–1678

    Article  Google Scholar 

  70. Peters RH (1967) Textile Chemistry, vol II. Elsevier, Amsterdam, Netherlands

    Google Scholar 

  71. Potthast A, Rosenau T, Chen CL, Gratzl JS (1996) A novel method for the conversion of benzyl alcohols to benzaldehydes by laccase-catalyzed oxiindation. J Mol Catal A Chem 108:5–9

    Google Scholar 

  72. Ramachandran T, Karthik T (2004) Application of genetics engineering and enzymes in textile. IE (I) J TX 84:32–36

    Google Scholar 

  73. Riva A, Alsina JM, Prieto R (1999) Enzymes as auxiliary agents in wool dyeing. J Soc Dyers Col 115:125–129

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  74. Roy Choudhury AK (2006) Textile preparation and dyeing, 2nd edn. (2010), Science Publishers (Enfield, NH: USA); The Society of Dyers and Colourist, Mumbai

    Google Scholar 

  75. Sancar B, Paksoy N, Balci O, Kurtoğlu N (2012) Investigation on the possibilities of enzymes usage in the pretreatment of cotton woven fabrics and combined process development (in Turkish). J Text Eng Tekstil ve Mühendis 19(86):7–13

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  76. Saravanan D, Nalankiili G, Ramachandran T (2008) Enzyme inactivation in textile processing. Man-Made Text India, India, pp 44–47

    Google Scholar 

  77. Saravanan D, Ramanathan VA, Arun Karthick P, Murugan S, Ve Nalankilli G, Ramachandran T (2010) Optimisation of multi-enzyme scouring process using Taguchi methods. India J Fiber Text Res 35(2):164–171

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  78. Sawada K, Tokino S, Ueda M, Wang XY (1998) Bioscouring of cotton with pectinase enzyme. J Soc Dyers Colour (JSDC) 114:333–336

    Article  Google Scholar 

  79. Sawada K, Tokino S, Ueda M (1998) Bioscouring of cotton with pectinase enzyme in a non-aqueous system. JSDC 114:355–359

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  80. Schroeder M, Lenting HBM, Kandelbauer A, Silva CJSM, Cavaco-Paulo A, Gűbitz GM (2006) Restricting detergent protease action to surface of protein fibers by chemical modification. Appl Microbiol Biotechnol 72:738–744

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  81. Setti L, Giuliani S, Spinozzi G, Pifferi PG (1999) Laccase catalyzed oxidative coupling of 3-methyl 2-benzothiazolinone hydrazone and methoxyphenols. Enzyme Microb Technol 25:285–289

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  82. Shaikh MA (2009) Water conservation in textile industry. Pak Text J 11:48–51

    Google Scholar 

  83. Shaikh MA (2010) Enzymes: a revaluation in textile processing. Pak Text J 48–51

    Google Scholar 

  84. Shenai VA (1984) Technology of Bleaching, vol III, 4th edn. Sevak Publications, Bombay

    Google Scholar 

  85. Shen J, Rushforth M, Cavaco-Paulo A, Guebitz G, Lenting H (2007) Development and industrialization of enzymatic shrinkresist process based on modified proteases for wool machine washability. Enzyme Microbial Technol 40:1656–1661

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  86. Shrinivas PK (2007) http://www.goarticles.com/inEducation/Science. Accessed 6 Dec 2013

  87. Sundar PS, Bhatoye SK, Karthikeyan N, Prabhu KH (2007) Indian Enzyme applications in textiles. Text J 117(8):25–31

    Google Scholar 

  88. Siezen RJ, Leunissen JAM (1997) The superfamily of subtilisin-like serine proteases. Protein Sci 6:501–523

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  89. Silva R, Cavaco-Paulo A, Nierstrastrasz VA (2010) Chapter 4 Enzymatic hydrolysis and modification of core polymer fibers for textile and other applications in advances in textile biotechnology. In: Cavaco-Paulo A, Nierstrastrasz VA (ed) Advances in textile biotechnology, Woodhead, Cambridge

    Google Scholar 

  90. Spicka N, Forte-Tavcer P (2012) Complete enzymatic pre-treatment of cotton fabric with incorporated bleach activator. Text Res J. doi:10.1177/0040517512458346 (published online 18 September)

  91. Tavčer PF (2013) Biotechnology in textiles—an opportunity of saving water, www.intechopen.Com). Accessed 8 March 2013

  92. Tauber M, Gübitz G, Cavaco-Paulo A (2001) Enzymatic treatment of acrylic fibers and granulates. AATCC Rev 1:17–19

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  93. Tzanov T, Costa S, Guebitz GM, Cavaco-Paulo A (2001) Dyeing in catalase-treated bleaching baths. Color Technol 117:1–5

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  94. Vasella A, Davies GJ, Bohm M (2002) Glycosidase mechanisms. Curr Opin Chem Biol 6(5):619–29. doi:10.1016/S1367-5931(02)00380-0. PMID 12413546

  95. Vinod S (2001) Enzymatic decolourisation of denims: a novel approach. Colourage 48:25–26

    Google Scholar 

  96. Wang Q, Fan X, Hu Y, Yuan J, Li Cui, Wang P (2009) Antibacterial functionalization of wool fabric via immobilizing lysozymes. Bioprocess Biosyst Eng 32:633–639. doi:10.1007/s00449-008-0286-5

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  97. Wehrschűtz-Sigl E, Hasmann A, Gűebitz GM (2010) Smart textiles and biomaterials containing enzymes or enzyme substrates. In: Cavaco-Paulo A, Nierstrastrasz VA (eds) Advances in textile biotechnology. Woodhead, Cambridge

    Google Scholar 

  98. Wiseman A (1985) Handbook of enzyme biotechnology. Elis Horwood, Chichester

    Google Scholar 

  99. Wong Y, Yu J (1999) Laccase-catalyzed decolorization of synthetic dyes. Water Res 33:3512–3520

    Google Scholar 

  100. Xie Z, Ma X, Gang DR (2009) Co-regulated metabolite modules in turmeric (Curcuma longa) rhizome suggest the existence of biosynthetic modules in plant secondary metabolism. J Exp Bot 60:87–97

    Google Scholar 

  101. Yoon MY (1998) WO patent 98/27264

    Google Scholar 

  102. Yoon MY, Kellis J, Poulose AJ (2002) Enzymatic modification of polyester. AATCC Rev 2(6):33–36

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  103. Yu XW, Guan WJ, Li YQ, Guo TJ, Zhou JD (2005) A biological treatment technique for wool textile. Braz Arch Biol Technol 48:675–680

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  104. Zhang Q, Yan S (2013) Degumming of ramie bast fibers by Ca–activated composite enzyme. J Text Inst 104(1):78–83

    Article  CAS  Google Scholar 

  105. Zhou J (2009) Immobilization of alliinase and its application: flow injection enzymatic analysis for alliin. Afr J Biotechnol 8(7):1337–1342

    CAS  Google Scholar 

  106. Zille A (2005) Laccase reactions for textile applications. Ph.D. Thesis, Universidade do Minho, Portugal

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to A. K. Roy Choudhury .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2014 Springer Science+Business Media Singapore

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

Roy Choudhury, A.K. (2014). Sustainable Textile Wet Processing: Applications of Enzymes. In: Muthu, S. (eds) Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing. Textile Science and Clothing Technology. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-287-065-0_7

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-287-065-0_7

  • Published:

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Singapore

  • Print ISBN: 978-981-287-064-3

  • Online ISBN: 978-981-287-065-0

  • eBook Packages: EngineeringEngineering (R0)

Publish with us

Policies and ethics