Abstract
Surfing is perhaps the oldest “extreme sport” in existence, and though its precise origins are unknown, most authorities agree that the sport originated in Polynesia over 800 years ago. The first written accounts of surfing appear in the journals of English explorer Captain James Cook, who witnessed Tahitians bodysurfing and riding waves in outrigger canoes in 1777 and a year later saw surfers riding waves while standing atop long wooden surfboards in Hawaii. Before the arrival of Westerners to Polynesia, surfing was an important cultural and recreational activity, particularly in the Hawaiian Islands where the chiefs maintained exclusive rights to the best surf breaks while commoners surfed elsewhere. By the early nineteenth century, the sport fell into a rapid decline under the influence of Western missionaries who discouraged surfing as a frivolous pastime [1].
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Nathanson, A.T. (2013). Surfing Injuries. In: Mei-Dan, O., Carmont, M. (eds) Adventure and Extreme Sports Injuries. Springer, London. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4471-4363-5_7
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4471-4363-5_7
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